Glue for maple to maple?

[AAvK]

Hello all,

I am soon to take the round out of my maple boards on jointer and through the thicknesser. Then I will use hand saw to cut in dog holes, and drill holes for front-to-back rods (fully threaded or end threaded).

But this maple is hard rock sugar, very hard and *glassy* so I am curious about which glue to use, 202GF, 2002GF, TB-II, TB-II extend, yellow, white, epoxy, super glue (lol), school glue, school paper paste...???

Should I score or rough up the sides with sand paper before gluing? Maybe with a toothing blade (not that I have one, of course)?

[gfretwell]

I have used Gorilla glue and garden variety yellow glue. I don't see much difference.

[J T]

Sat, Jan 28, 2006, 6:17pm (EST-3) [e-mail] (AAvK), or someone, did burble: But this maple is hard rock sugar, very hard and *glassy* so I am curious about which glue to use, 202GF, 2002GF, TB-II, TB-II extend, yellow, white, epoxy, super glue (lol), school glue, school paper paste...???

You had to ask? Maple syrup.

JOAT You only need two tools: WD-40, and duct tape. If it doesn't move and it should, use WD-40. If it moves and shouldn't, use the tape.

[George Max]

Plain 'ol yellow glue works well.

[Frank Drackman]

Regular yellow glue works for me.

[George E. Cawthon]

Come on! you can't beat yellow carpenters glue unless you need waterproof. The smoother the surface and the better the fit, the stronger the joint.

[Josh]

I made a counter top out of 2x2x48 strips of maple which I joined with biscuits and Titebond II yellow glue. It's only been a year, but it's worked great so far. I posted some pictures. They're in reverse chronological order, so start with Page 3 first.

?page=2

[Leon]

Take your pick. I would use the most common to woodworking.

NO. The thicker the glue gap the weaker the joint. Just make sure you spread the glue out over the entire surface and don't just squirt out a bead and let the clamps spread the glue.

[AAvK]

the glue out over the entire surface and don't just

THANK YOU Leon and everyone (mostly) else!

OK, I've got a full quart of TB-II, so, for what most guys say in response, 'cept for "JT", that should do it. I guess I should align the boards with biscuits? Or would that weaken the whole assembly in any way?

At the adult ed. shop I go to, there are six pretty large student woodworkers table benches, this is a high school mind you, each is perfectly square. Each has a vise (old Wiltons with "L" shaped jaw faces) on the far right corner of each face, four students to each table.

These tops are soft white maple or euro steamed beech and atop "locker stands". They must have been a factory product for schools and definitely made in the 60's, but some of the edge boards have come loose, remainiong attached at the each end because of metal binding coping strips using screws, I think they are thick extruded aluminum.

So I suppose if TB-II didn't exist back then, it must be good enough these days, to last a lifetime of pounding, yes? But only 5 minutes open time.... aaaaaaarrrrrgggghhhh!

[AAvK]

That's a nice piece of work, thanks. Read my reply to Leon.

[AAvK]

the stronger the joint.

OK thanks! But what about biscuits for aligning the boards, would that weaken it? And, read my reply to Leon.

[AAvK]

What about good ol' yellah gloo?

[AAvK]

Yeah? Doing smooth hard maple to smooth hard maple? Facing to facing?

[Frank Drackman]

alignment so I never saw the need.

[J T]

Sun, Jan 29, 2006, 11:18am (EST-3) [e-mail] (AAvK) now asketh: What about good ol' yellah gloo?

Well shure, if ya wanna be picky. Doesn't taste as good tho.

JOAT You only need two tools: WD-40, and duct tape. If it doesn't move and it should, use WD-40. If it moves and shouldn't, use the tape.

[Ba r r y]

Same here.

I use waxed cauls in the middle and c-clamps and pillow blocks on the on the ends to ensure alignment.

Melamine scraps make great glue-proof pillow blocks

Barry

[George E. Cawthon]

the stronger the joint.

Sure it will weaken it, but not significantly. The purpose of biscuits is alignment and if you need something for alignment, use it. I personally use a spline of 1/4" plywood for alignment and have never had any problems.

[Dave Jackson]

I'm guessing you are gluing up a top for a workbench. When I glued up mine, I just got a small paint roller and rolled the edges with TBII. (My benchtop was 2 1/2" thick white Oak). Before the glue up, I prepared everything, including drilling holes through all the boards for them to be secured with allthread which ran the width of the boards in 5 places. No clamps were even needed, just tightened the allthread and tapped the boards flush with a deadblow. Been beat on for over a year now, still solid as can be. --dave

[AAvK]

was 2 1/2" thick white Oak). Before the glue up, I

to be secured with allthread which ran the width of

allthread and tapped the boards flush with a deadblow.

Those are some fair details, 'preciated. The roller is what I've got going, already bought that stuff in small size.

I guess my boards will be 57" long plus outward spline except for the front two at minus 10", 47", for a tail vise of my own design. 57" + 2" of inner jaw/apron and so forth, then another 2" of outer jaw with dog holes, then another 3" (or so) for the spindle ends with handles.

I will have four rods, two different lengths, outer are longer for going through from front to the back of the tool trough ramps. Inner rods are shorter, going from front to the inside of the tool trough.

I bought cheapo pipe clamps though, for 7 on top and 7 below. Currently I am making clamp pads of "philipino" mahogany (practically fluff), yet to be drilled monday night. But the rod would be good to have now, they could do the aligning.

[Max Mahanke]

fit, the stronger the joint.