Getting Straight Edges on long boards


I have a table saw and want to know if the following will work.
If I build a 10 foot long "slider" from a 1x6 and a 1x2 as a back edge, can I lay a 10 foot long board in it and saw a straight edge on the other side, or do I really need a joiner?
I am trying to remember how my grandfather did it, without a joiner - unfortunately I was only 12 when he passed away and do not have a complete memory of how he did it.
I have just gotten boards from a sawmill with natural edges and I want to turn them into square boards.
Thanks in advance.
Doug
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Easy enough to do, but I find the rectangular ones more useful.
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Doug,
Yes.....but...
The width of the slider will depend somewhat on the natural edge that will be clamped, screwed or somehow fastened to the slider. If the overhang (past your 1x6) is a lot, then it will tend to lift the edge of the slider (the 1x2) and the board will tilt causing a potentially dangerous situation. Be sure you use a splitter that is up to the task.
There are a number of ways to do this and after building a few carriers (sliders as you called it) of different lengths I finally just purchased a set of the aluminum H type brackets ( http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?paged15 ) that clamp to board on the fence side and then on to the board on the blade side. They work well but you can make a shop built device too.
Bob S.

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Thank you all.
Yes I do need the 10 foot lengths. I have a great room with a 24 foot ceiling and the wife wants library book cases on one wall. The 10 footers are for the face pieces and the ladder.
I have some 1x6 oak that was milled to a very straight edge and I checked it with my 12 foot aluminum I-beam straight edge from work. It has a good clean, straight edge on it yet.
The rest will be cut to length (or close to it) prior to cleaning up. The person I am getting this from is giving me surfaces (S2S) lumber (and boy is it pretty! - I wish I could find a use for all he has - it is cheap!).
I checked out the Rockler catalog and found the H brackets, I may buy a set.
I may also get a joiner, but I do not want to put that much Maple thru a joiner, some of the edges are an inch or more out of square from one end to the other.
Again thank you all.
I am trying to re-learn what I knew at 12 working with my Grandfather and his tools - I want to a plane sharpening class yesterday and took his hand built planes - I have 30 or 40 hours of honing to do to get them ready to use. The instructor was ga-ga about that largest plane - at over 36 inches long and with a blade that is 4 inches wide. Even sharp we had a hard time pushing down the lumber, but the curls it left behind were neat. I guess I will have to go back to the gym and get in shape to plane beams.
Doug

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The instructor was ga-ga about that largest plane -

Entirely possible that you're supposed top hold the piece, and leave the plane stationary on something like that.
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IIRC, there's some place in Texas that has an eight footer. Takes two men and a boy to push it.
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Close. Absent a jointer, all you really need is a straight piece attached to the top and slightly past the fence side of the rough piece. Attach it with brads, screws or whatever will hold it securely. Rip the rough edge straight, remove the top piece, flip the rough piece over and rip the other edge.
Dave
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Doug Houseman wrote:

You could also clamp a straightedge to the board and run a router along it.
Chris
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First question - how are you going to get straight edges on the material for your slider? You certainly won't get them in construction lumber.
Second question - what are you making that needs 10 foot boards and you can't justify the expense of a jointer?
Normal Neanderthal is snap a chalk line, rip leaving the line, plane by hand.
Tailed tool depends on getting a known straight edge to work a saw or router against, or to run on the fence of your tablesaw. It might remain straight until the second time it hits the floor.
Unless you need ten foot lengths, crosscut first and simplify your problems. Then you can take flip/flop nibble passes on a piece of ply to get straight and parallel sides for your tablesaw carriage or router fence.
I take it this is surfaced lumber? If not, leave it in its natural state until you're actually going to use it, then edge and thickness the boards required.
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"Doug Houseman" wrote in message

He probably attached the rough board to one with an already milled edge, then put the milled edge against the table saw fence to cut a straight edge on the rough board.
That's the idea ... there are a number of ways to accomplish it, probably with what you've already got in your shop, if you give it some thought

Does your project really call for 10' boards? It's a lot easier to crosscut your material to rough project size, then do your squaring/milling.
That way any jigs you make to give you that first reference edge can be smaller, easier to use and store.
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Last update: 11/06/05
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I found a pretty simple thing in a magazine that uses a board that's straight on one side to begin with...Rather than explain it I'll scan the page and e-mail it in .pdf. (or as another attachment). Don't know if I can find it fast enough because I have top go to work in bout 15 mins...If not will send later.
Salmo
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