This is my first post to this group but I've searched
the archives and received quite a bit of useful information
so far. I'm going to be purchasing a General International
50-185 table saw but I'm not sure if I should get the
LM1 model with a 52" rip fence system or the M1 with the
30" fence system.
Like many woodworkers, the space in my garage is less than
ideal. I figure that if I can fit the larger saw into my
limited space I might as well go for it. Unfortunately I
haven't been able to find the dimensions for either of the
above listed saws. Specifically, what I need is the width
of both saws from the edge of the table to the left of the
blade to the end of the fence rails to the right for both
saws. I'm hoping that any of you who have either saw would
measure yours and post the results for me.
I have about an 8' space left on one wall where my father's
old Craftsman table saw used to reside along with my large
router table cabinet. Dad wanted his saw back so now
I'm left with a space and the need for a new saw.
What I'd really like to do is build a new router table
top to put into the space between the fence rails.
I like having a fairly large router table and I figure
that the longer rails of the 52" saw would give me a space
to add one and combine two tools into a smaller space.
I've seen that GI makes a router table that fits the
50-185 but it won't allow me to keep my phenolic
router insert and probably won't allow me to use the beefy
fence that I've built. Unfortunately there are no GI
distributers within a few hundred miles of where I live,
(Redding, California) so I can't go looking and measuring.
Have any of you added in one of these tables to your saw?
Some saws are designed in a way that makes it easier to add
a table than others. Is this possible without drastic
modifications to this saw? My current router table is about
36" wide by 24" deep and 1 3/8" thick. I'd like to be
able to make a table to fit the saw that allows me to use
the fence I already have and orient the fence so that I
can use the cast iron table of the saw as an outfeed table
for the router table. Most table saw/router combos that
I've seen place the operator at the end of the saw with the
router fence parallel to the saw fence instead of parallel
to the front of the table saw like I want to do. Again,
since I haven't actually seen one of these saws in person I
don't know how hard it will be to attach a router table to
the saw without heavy modifications to the saw and possibly
screwing it up. Any ideas? could I do this with the 30"
saw or is the 52" the way to go.
As far as pricing goes, I've only found this saw for sale
online at a few places and the price seems to be right at
about $650US for the 30" and $690US for the 52". Anyone
know where I might find this any cheaper? I was considering
buying from Tools-Plus online. The nearest distributer is
about 2½ hours from me and they don't have any in stock.
they want $629US and $729US for the small and the large and
wouldn't have it for about a week. I'd have to pay in
advance and pay sales tax but I might save a little on
shipping even after paying for the gas to get there and back.
Sorry this is so long. I'll try to keep my posts shorter
in the future. Thanks in advance for any replies.
Specifically, what I need is the width
The specs say the table is 40", so the blade is in the center making it 20"
to the left. Add the 30" or 52" on the right for total size.. Figure about
72" for the big one.
Adding a router to a 30' saw is not a good idea IMO, The tableboard is just
too small. If I had a 52" saw, I'd consider it. If you have the router
setup on the 30", you'd be chanign setups on the saw or the router to
accomodate use of the other tool far too often. Although I've seldom wished
I had the longer rails, I don't think I could live with a router in my 30"
saw. I have a table and I can leave the setup alone while using the saw and
If you can fit it, get the 52" if you are willing to give up a dedicated
BTW, it looks like a nice saw.
email@example.com (Bruce) wrote in
I doubt you'll find it cheaper. I tried to find one since before
Thanksgiving, very long wait for orders. Finally, drove to Canada
(Windsor, Ont) and brought it (50-185 m1) back. With the crappy exchange
and the non-refundable 8% PST and the 3% duty, I paid around $760 US.
About a $75 premium. I just didn't want to wait another 3 or 4 months to
start making sawdust.
I wanted the 52" but I'm glad I got the 30" rails, it fits in my shop
Ontario has two taxes, 8% PST and 7% GST. Only the 8% PST is refundable
and only on purchases of $200.00CND or more. But, if I had bought in
Michigan I would have had to pay the 6% sales tax. I forgot to mention the
1.5% charge the credit card company laid on the currency exchange. I'm
still glad I did it.
Get teh 52in unless you are tight on space for the saw
Figure the 52in fench will add approx 22inches in WIDTH to the saw
compared to the 30in fence
On 6 Feb 2004 10:50:03 -0800, firstname.lastname@example.org (Bruce) wrote:
I only wish my General 650 was here in a week. The only General dealer is 100
miles from me, and he ordered the thing 4 weeks ago. Talked to him on Friday
afternoon and he promised he would call to find out where it is (my guess ...
"somewhere between Quebec and Texas"...) ;-)
I have the General International 50-185 left tilt with 30" fence.
The saw with the rails installed is 60" wide (long) and 32" deep. I
think you will be very happy with this saw. I can do the "nickel" test
with the saw running on a mobile base on a concrete floor.
I drove 200 miles last weekend to Hartville Tool in Hartville OH to
pickup my 50-185. This weekend, they have a tool sale. I negotiated
(grovelled?) for an advance on the sale last week. They were kind
enough to give it to me. I will be back for more stuff from them as a
Anyway, I got the saw for $599 + tax. I'm so glad I took those
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