FWW #195 - Teague's long workbench

just wondering how Teague may have assembled his L-shaped bench along the walls.

He says it's just 2 sheets of ply for the top afixed to 3/4" plywood panels to support it. Does that give enough support? What about leveling for unlevel concrete floors? How does that 3/4" panel start vertical and not tip (caulk it to the floor)?

I like the idea of roll around carts to be stored under the bench. I'd also like my bench flat and level. I'm thinking a jointed flat 2x4 screwed to the back wall to establish level and then horizontal supports coming out 20" with legs dropping down to the floor sitting on lag bolts for leveling. There woud be no front support so there is more clearance under the bench.

Thougths?

PS.. those roll around carts look like a good idea, but I have to doubt how effective they are for miter box support, outfeed tables, etc. They are assuming dead flat floors... not realistic IMO.

Reply to
Kevin
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Maybe he scribed the panel to the floor, just for magazine photo purposes!

Shims? Adjustable feet? Whatever is easy for you will work fine, I'm sure.

I think you solved your own problem.

Miter saw supports and outfeed supports work fine if they're a tick short. Miter saw supports also work great if they're a tick high, but high on outfeed tables tends to catch. If you're cutting really thick stock with zero flex, simply shim it. The takeaway is that either will work just fine if 1/8" low. I often use roller stands on site as miter saw supports, set up by eye.

My concrete floor is far from flat, so I tuck builder's shims into the mobile bases. When I "park" a tool, they're readily available, on board the mobile base.

Reply to
Bonehenge (B A R R Y)

I was just curious what others have done.

I think I've settled on my design.

jointed 2x4 along the back wall.. 2x4 metal bracket to support the horizontal support.. M/T to the leg.. lag bolt leveler.

Reply to
Kevin

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