Fun router technique question

Page 2 of 2  


A tray bit would work but with a rounded profile. Tray bit, then finish with a straight bit on the long sides.
-Zz
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Mon, 24 Jan 2011 22:02:32 -0500, Bill wrote:

Plunge a stacked dado in with a radial arm saw.
I accept no resposibility for missing digits, broken RAS or dado blades.
basilisk
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Plunge a stacked dado in with a radial arm saw.
Yep, that would work. If the radius would be acceptable
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Bill wrote:

Laminate it, cut the bottom bit with long straight router and laminate the sides to it.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
F Murtz wrote:

Hmmm... Bevel cut the sides, huh. That's clever.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Bill wrote:

I am not sure what you mean but I mean, to cut the centre bit the width of the pencils with the curves at the end and glue a flat strip either side.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Laminate it, cut the bottom bit with long straight router and laminate the sides to it.
This approach might prove interesting - cut out the area and then insert the laminated part - allows for different wood color/grain. Marquetry?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I was thinking of a two-part sled affair (I have no CNC access) with the (female) "base" part shaped like the pencil groove you want to end up with ( with a slot to allow the bit to reach the work) and a shorter, similarly-shaped (male) piece fixed to the router base. I thought you could slide the router to each end where it would raise up and out of the work.
But it would tilt as it hit the "ramp" at either end and then level as it came out of the work. It might not make a difference and would, as envisioned, employ a simple quarter-inch spiral (?) straight bit that cut bottom and sides.
But, If I had a CNC router, I would think I could put the same bit in the machine and cut your pencil tray quite easily
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Rout the pocket, then chisel along the pencil axis to form the slope, or gouge across the pencil axis. Either way, it helps to have a good heavy table and vise.
Finish with sandpaper (the bottom won't be esthetic straight from the router).
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 1/25/2011 12:32 PM, Bill wrote:

Cut the bottom shelf into three pieces ,the pencil slot can be made by making a pattern, from some mdf or ply , then use a straight pattern bit and a router table ,rout the shape of the bottom of the pencil tray with the material on it's edge ,then rip it to width and edge glue the three pieces together .If the tray is wider than the length of the bit ,then make a couple and edge glue them together. I would use a thicker piece of material for the tray and rout it into one face , then rip that face off the bigger piece with the table saw, trim to the width you require .
The other way is to make a jig ( see link below ) to hold a piece of material on it's edge , and then make a female template and use a template guide to follow the template ,Use apiece of material larger than you need and trim it to size after on the table saw.
Actually your key board box is not a good design IMHO as you have no wrist support ,it looks to be way too high off the desk top ,I would imagine that you would get very tired in the hands and wrists if you spent a lot of time typing with that setup. I would have the keyboard below on a sliding tray and the pencil tray on the top shelf. Unless this is designed to sit across your lap and you are not using a desk at all.
Check out this link for other ways to use a router and achieve excellent results . http://routingwithtomodonnell.yolasite.com /
--
Kevin (Bluey)
"I'm not young enough to know everything."
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 1/28/2011 7:35 AM, Kevin(Bluey) wrote:

Actually, this will sit on the sliding tray. It is suitably low for me that this puts it in a good location. If I could locate yellow poplar thinner than 3/4" it may help weight-wise (I didn't locate it online). My MS Natural keyboard provides some wrist support (not shown in picture).
Thank you for your suggestions regarding implementation. They are all good, but I don't have a router table or even a TS yet. I do have a circular saw and a router--and some hand planes!
Thanks! Bill

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

If you learn to sharpen and use your hand planes, you can get your board to whatever thickness you want - faster than you might think if you think the only way to can make boards thinner is with a rotary planer or wide belt sander...
--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 1/28/2011 11:38 AM, Ecnerwal wrote:

Thank you for the suggestion. I've got some good planing projects coming up. I haven't tried my planes yet (picked them up at auction), so I'm sure they are probably due for some fettling...and maybe a cool dip in some of that "rust-off stuff" from Harbor Freight. it would be nice to demonstrate for my wife (and me!) that I can make Something! : )
Bill
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

Speaking of which, how are your insulating and lighting projects coming? If you're good, you can stretch it out into years as I did with the bow saur project last century.
-- Ask not what the world needs. Ask what makes you come alive... then go do it. Because what the world needs is people who have come alive. -- Howard Thurman
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Larry Jaques wrote:

Larry, I assure you that no project has been forgotten (you forgot to mention the DP baseboard one). Actually, I don't have an insulation project on the books now. I did insulate the walls and you added the ceiling without me giving the go-ahead. I am eager to start playing with the drywall mud again. I just need temps above 55F. As it is, we keep dipping into the single digits. I think I'll be able to wrap-up all the projects I've started by this summer--though I'm sure to start new ones before then...
What's a bow saur? Did you make a bow saw?
Bill

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

    HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.