Fuming question

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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

If you don't like it for fuming, the ammonia is usable for cleaning shellac brushes.
Barry
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You can also use it in the hose-end sprayer for fertilizer a la Jerry Baker
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wrote:

Well, if you can find a place that does blueprints in your area, they may have a source for "strong ammonia water". Note that this is NASTY stuff to have anywhere near anyone, but does the trick nicely.

Right. NH3 is extremely hygroscopic (or is it hygrophilic?). Anyway, it likes to bond with water, a LOT. But, it'll come back out given the chance.

At some point a balance is reached, not sure which runs out of what first, but yes.

It probably wouldn't get any darker. Assuming you use up tannin before you use up ammonia, the strength just gives you speed vs. control.

I'm sure someone has studied it, but I can't google up anything on it.
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On Wed, 25 May 2005 16:16:53 -0400, "Stephen M"

try this - a couple of samples of oak from the same board. Gas fume one, treat the other with a light wet coat of the ammonia solution (26% "strong household ammonia" for my technique). The gas fumed oak has a greyish brown colour, the wet-treated oak has a much darker near-black.
So the gas reaction may well proceed to an equilibrium and then stop, but there's clearly a way to force it well beyond this, by applying an aqueous solution. So whatever is limiting the reaction, I don't think it's simply shortage of tannins.
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this is a great thread.
I have little experiance in finishes, and never any thing beyond pine and oak.(i guess white oak) soft wood. i did not know about fuming.I had to google it. now i feel i have another tool to use. thanks. larry T

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