That electric boat motor is almost silent until the swap.
I don't approve of political jokes. I've seen too many of them get elected.
Naw, the Sears rating is overly optimistic. What you're suggesting is
equivalent to putting a Yugo engine in a Vette.
What you need to do is get another 220v motor and run the two in series.
This will halve your voltage requirement per motor and allow you pull a
total of 6hp off of your 120v lines.
Good luck. The craftsman motor won't fit in the Unisaw (that's Unisaw,
BTW - not "Unit saw".
So you're going to put a Sears motor in a Unisaw, thinking you'll get more
power? Why don't you just buy one of Sears shop vacs that has 6.5 hp and
use that motor? See what I'm getting at? Sears has somewhat of a problem
with horsepower ratings, and that motor is probably somewhere around 3/4
Save yourself a LOT of time and hassle, buy the Unisaw, have an electrician
install a 220 volt outlet in your shop (it's really easy to do), and dump
the Craftsman saw as-is.
- whose wimpy 3-hp "Unit saw" will rip through 3" thick green oak without a
My old Sears contractor saw(10 yrs old)....could be wired for 120 or
220...( ran mine on 220).said it could develop 3 h.p.,.....had cast iron
wings too, not like the junk they sell now.
My new Unit saw ( Alias Unisaw) is a hand down winner.....doesn,t bog
in 5/4 oak......has cast iron wings n table to boot....cabinet saw,....there
is no comparision between the saws; the Unisaw is much better.
Cheaper for you to run some wire for a new 220 line
Motors probably won,t fit right anyway.......
I thought abou tis George, but it is tough getting the big wire out to the
garage. I have a simple solution though.
I took some extra lunch time at work and got the saw home. It took four of
us to lift it into the backof the SUV. I feel kind of silly, it is a
UniSaw, not a unit saw. I got both motors out already. That was easy
enough, but you are right, they are not fully compatible. So, I'm going to
do a little modification. Seems the Delta has a three belt drive system but
the Craftsman has direct drive.
Since the direct drive is more efficient than the friction loss of the belt
system, I'm converting it to the direct drive. Should have less vibration
too. I only have to drill four holes in the table top to mount it and I'll
use countersunk screws.
Note to Fred M.
If you are still interested in the Craftsman saw, I'll sell it to you cheap,
but the adjusting system for the blade is going into the new saw. Let me
R E Quick Transit
Well I am serious and just posted a pictur for the doubter. I'm almost
reayd to go and start building cabinets with the cabinet saw. Only thing to
do now is fix the fence.
My Craftsman saw had a solid fence that locked on both ends. Like Ron
Popiele says, you just "set it and forget it". Not so with the Bee's Meyer
fence. The damned thing only grabs on the front and the back just waves
around. I'd be afraid to cut iwth it becuase it probably can't follow the
pencil line very well. I'm going to devise a clampof some sort for the
loose end. I think I'll drill some holes inthe table top and put a bolt
through sticking up, right through the Bee's Meyer fench. I can just set it
tot he right dimension and tighten it down with a ratchet and then clamp the
By tomorrow, I'll be makin' sawdust.
R E Quick Transit
Bad idea. Better to install a couple 220v outlets in your shop.
You'll have a smoother running and start, and use less energy with the
220v. Think about a 220v DC too. The 220v circuit should be easy to
install with all the materials available at your local HD, Lowes or
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.