FS Tablesaw

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Sockman speaks thusly:

That electric boat motor is almost silent until the swap.
Charlie Self I don't approve of political jokes. I've seen too many of them get elected.
http://hometown.aol.com/charliediy/myhomepage/business.html
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at
Naw, the Sears rating is overly optimistic. What you're suggesting is equivalent to putting a Yugo engine in a Vette.
What you need to do is get another 220v motor and run the two in series. This will halve your voltage requirement per motor and allow you pull a total of 6hp off of your 120v lines.
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You're kidding right?

guy
deal,
120
motor
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OK.
at
Good luck. The craftsman motor won't fit in the Unisaw (that's Unisaw, BTW - not "Unit saw".

So you're going to put a Sears motor in a Unisaw, thinking you'll get more power? Why don't you just buy one of Sears shop vacs that has 6.5 hp and use that motor? See what I'm getting at? Sears has somewhat of a problem with horsepower ratings, and that motor is probably somewhere around 3/4 horse.
Save yourself a LOT of time and hassle, buy the Unisaw, have an electrician install a 220 volt outlet in your shop (it's really easy to do), and dump the Craftsman saw as-is.
Jon E - whose wimpy 3-hp "Unit saw" will rip through 3" thick green oak without a stutter.
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My old Sears contractor saw(10 yrs old)....could be wired for 120 or 220...( ran mine on 220).said it could develop 3 h.p.,.....had cast iron wings too, not like the junk they sell now. My new Unit saw ( Alias Unisaw) is a hand down winner.....doesn,t bog in 5/4 oak......has cast iron wings n table to boot....cabinet saw,....there is no comparision between the saws; the Unisaw is much better. Cheaper for you to run some wire for a new 220 line Motors probably won,t fit right anyway.......

at
motor
is
can
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I thought abou tis George, but it is tough getting the big wire out to the garage. I have a simple solution though.
I took some extra lunch time at work and got the saw home. It took four of us to lift it into the backof the SUV. I feel kind of silly, it is a UniSaw, not a unit saw. I got both motors out already. That was easy enough, but you are right, they are not fully compatible. So, I'm going to do a little modification. Seems the Delta has a three belt drive system but the Craftsman has direct drive.
Since the direct drive is more efficient than the friction loss of the belt system, I'm converting it to the direct drive. Should have less vibration too. I only have to drill four holes in the table top to mount it and I'll use countersunk screws.
Note to Fred M. If you are still interested in the Craftsman saw, I'll sell it to you cheap, but the adjusting system for the blade is going into the new saw. Let me know.
Ralph Engerman R E Quick Transit
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This a re-cast! Get a different hobby besides trolling and woodworking. How about scrapbooking?

of
to
but
belt
I'll
cheap,
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Sockman casts again with:

Great cast. Are your real initials David Eisan?
Charlie Self I don't approve of political jokes. I've seen too many of them get elected.
http://hometown.aol.com/charliediy/myhomepage/business.html
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of
to
but
belt
I'll
cheap,
Hey! I'm enjoying this! So much better than the potty mouthed spammer!
Montyhp

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RE Quick Transit wrote:

This thread is nothing without pictures.
We need graphics.
--
Mark

N.E. Ohio
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You got'em. I posted a picture on the binaries woodworking group.
Ralph Engerman R E Quick Transit
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RE Quick Transit wrote:

Next time warn people. I just had my wisdom teeth cut out, and it hurts like hell to smile. That was cruel and unusual punishment.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan < snipped-for-privacy@users.sourceforge.net>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
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Y'know, I must be gullible. I didn't think so, but I read this twice before I figured out that you weren't serious.
I hope.
:)
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Well I am serious and just posted a pictur for the doubter. I'm almost reayd to go and start building cabinets with the cabinet saw. Only thing to do now is fix the fence.
My Craftsman saw had a solid fence that locked on both ends. Like Ron Popiele says, you just "set it and forget it". Not so with the Bee's Meyer fence. The damned thing only grabs on the front and the back just waves around. I'd be afraid to cut iwth it becuase it probably can't follow the pencil line very well. I'm going to devise a clampof some sort for the loose end. I think I'll drill some holes inthe table top and put a bolt through sticking up, right through the Bee's Meyer fench. I can just set it tot he right dimension and tighten it down with a ratchet and then clamp the front.
By tomorrow, I'll be makin' sawdust.
Relph Engerman R E Quick Transit
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Did you ever find that primer for your cherry table from a few years ago?
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Bad idea. Better to install a couple 220v outlets in your shop. You'll have a smoother running and start, and use less energy with the 220v. Think about a 220v DC too. The 220v circuit should be easy to install with all the materials available at your local HD, Lowes or hardware store.

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Phisherman wrote:

So 220 runs smoother than 110? How come.
UA100, Myth Buster In Training...
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On Sat, 28 Feb 2004 18:57:48 -0600, Unisaw A100 wrote:

...and how much less energy?
--
-Doug


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