Frustrations with new (used) jointer - JT360

I have spent all day trying to set up my new jointer with a JointerPal. I have finally decided to seek help before wandering around aimlessly anymore.
1) I have it so that the front half of the cutter head works just like it should, but the back half produces a convex edge because the end part of the wood is not cut. (length, not width) Not coincidentally, a straitedge put across the front just brushes all three knives, while it completely misses them at the back. Okay, obviously the front is set properly while the back has them too low, so the end is pulled up onto the outfeed table and doesn't get cut. But could there be another explanation than simple misadjustment? I have been setting and resetting the blades all day, and it doesn't make much sense that I set all three front correctly and all three backs too low; the whole point of JointerPal is that they are automatically consistant.
2) I cleaned some surface rust off with steel wool. It looked pretty good, but there was some orange left in the grain. I took vinegar (which I have seen recommended here) to it and it IMMEDIATELY turned the whole table brown. The brown does not come off with steel wool. Is this normal and proper?!?! If I didn't know better, I would say it was rust.
3) The jointer included a JointerPal, and WoodStock was kind enough to email me instructions. But what do I do with the knife adjusters in the cutter head; just ignore them, or do I have to tighten them up against the knife. (Hey this might be the way to raise the backs a bit...)
Thanks.
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Toller wrote:>

As long as you're aligning the knives to the outfeed table, it sounds like your tables aren't co-planar. Do yourself a favor, and purchase the book "Care and Maintenance of Shop Machines" by John White. In it you'll find excellent info on how to build a set of master bars, any length, cheap, which rival any straightedge costing hundreds of dollars. Plus there's info on shimming the table(s) into co-planarity (izzat a word?). After using the magnetic knife setters (built from instructions in the book) on my jointer, and tightening the bolts, I gently snug up the jackscrews to the heel of the blades so they don't move. Tom Work at your leisure!
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After writing the last email, it occured to me to try using the jackscrews to raise the back of the knives; and it worked, kind of. It no longer cuts convex; instead it snipes. ARRGH. (could explain why I got such a good buy on it...) Fortunately the library has the book you suggested, so I will read it through. Thanks.
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Toller wrote:>After writing the last email, it occured to me to try using the jackscrews

If you're getting snipe, then incrementally raise the outfeed table until the snipe just disappears. Bob's your Uncle! Tom Work at your leisure!
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Household Vinegar is about 5% acetic acid, IIRC. Acetic ain't the worlds strongest acid... IMHO, if you were going to take this route, I'd have used muriatic (HCl) or have added some salt (NaCl).
Personally, I'd have popped for a commercial product, also mentioned here...
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It's normal behavior of iron when vinegar is poured on it. Proper? Well, you can decide for yourself if pouring vinegar on iron is proper or improper.
It's more likely to be iron acetate, than rust.
Do like I told you this morning: wrap some 400 grit wet-or-dry paper around a block of wood and polish the table, using mineral spirits as a lubricant.
-- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
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