anyone using or have used this blade? Curious about how clean and flat = the dado bottom is with it. I am currently using a set from HF but do = not think it is suitable for much fine work.
--=20 SwampBug
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I bought a set last month from Amazon for $74 and have used it twice.
A 3/8" deep 3/4" wide cut in butternut was perfect. I thought I had a great bargain.
Then a 1/4" deep 5/16" wide cut in oak was not so great. The bottom was not flat and there was significant tearout on the ends. Maybe the tear out was the fault of the oak, but the non-flat bottom was because the 1/16" cutter was a bit higher than the rest.
Is it worth $74? That I really don't know. (But it beats the heck out of a router, and that is how I was doing it before)
anyone using or have used this blade? Curious about how clean and flat the dado bottom is with it. I am currently using a set from HF but do not think it is suitable for much fine work.
The bottom is clean and flat, but there is a very slight V groove on either side.
I have the SD208. I'd say it's probably the best set in the price range. Cuts nice flat bottomed dados for me in *most* materials. Since then, I also bought the Infinity Dadonator set. Although almost twice the price, it produces very flat bottom dados, some of the best I have seen.
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I've had one for six years. It was fine until I found a Dado King for $149. I always thought of the SD208 as "flat enough", as my dados have always been covered by a face frame or banding.
Tearout at the end is eliminated by using a sled, which supports the cut as the blade exits. This is true for any cut. Insist on using a miter gauge? Use a sacrificial fence. Many plywood case sides get rabbetted to accept a back. Cut the rabbet last, and tearout is moot.
I'm actually keeping the 208 for MDF and general construction dados.
Barry
Thanks. The best price, local, here is about $95. Possibly $88 or so at = Amazon. I will look some more.
--=20 SwampBug
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A 3/8" deep 3/4" wide cut in butternut was perfect. I thought I had a = great=20 bargain.
Then a 1/4" deep 5/16" wide cut in oak was not so great. The bottom was = not=20 flat and there was significant tearout on the ends. Maybe the tear out = was=20 the fault of the oak, but the non-flat bottom was because the 1/16" = cutter=20 was a bit higher than the rest.
Is it worth $74? That I really don't know. (But it beats the heck out = of a=20 router, and that is how I was doing it before)=20
The ubiquitous "V" groove, , ,I wonder if any blade eliminates that. = Thanks.
--=20 SwampBug
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The bottom is clean and flat, but there is a very slight V groove on = either=20 side.=20
Thanks Woodcrafter, i read the linked report. Not sure I can afford, or = justify the Dadonator price but I appreciate the info.=20
--=20 SwampBug
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I have the SD208. I'd say it's probably the best set in the price range. Cuts nice flat bottomed dados for me in *most* materials. Since then, I also bought the Infinity Dadonator set. Although almost = twice the price, it produces very flat bottom dados, some of the best I have = seen.
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- Porter Cable COIL250 Coil Nailer
- Ryobi 18v Cordless Jigsaw
- Festool CT22E Dust Extractor
- Fasco GN-40A Brad Nailer
- Taunton's Complete Illustrated Guide to Furniture & Cabinet = Construction
- Milescraft SignCrafter
------------------------------------------------------------
I would not have to look too hard at a Dado King for $149! I think i = can go with the SD208 for now and look to better when my skills justify = it. Patience is king! Thanks.
--=20 SwampBug
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I've had one for six years. It was fine until I found a Dado King for $149. I always thought of the SD208 as "flat enough", as my dados have always been covered by a face frame or banding.
Tearout at the end is eliminated by using a sled, which supports the cut as the blade exits. This is true for any cut. Insist on using a miter gauge? Use a sacrificial fence. Many plywood case sides get rabbetted to accept a back. Cut the rabbet last, and tearout is moot.
I'm actually keeping the 208 for MDF and general construction dados.
Barry
no discernable v groove from my amana set.
I will check out Amana again but the site is very slow just now. They = don't seem to believe in pics there.
--=20 SwampBug
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no discernable v groove from my amana set.
Please note I said "slight" V groove. It's not all that noticeable after assembly and glueup, but if you take a magnifying glass (or electron microscope for the more affluent newsgroup members), you'll see it.
I have this set and it has been adequate. The dadoes that I cut are not quite flat bottomed, but the sides have been clean on everything I have cut except for some veneer plywood that I used. That plywood would not cut cleanly for anything with any blade that I used, even sharp ones :-). To see the unevenness of the dado bottoms from the end, you would have to get very close to the piece, and be looking for it to see that it was not absolutely flat. Besides, it gives the glue someplace to go. :-)
The bottoms are not flat because of the difference between the hole in the blade and the size of the arbor. For example, if the size of the hole was actually .628", and the diameter of the arbor was actually .622", then you have a potential of .006" variance in depth from blade to blade. The inner cutters of the SD208 are only two tooth and are supposed to be mounted at right angles to each other. Since one would be vertical, and the next one to it is supposed to be horzontal, they fit on the arbor differently which results in a dado with a bottom where you can see the swathe cut by each cutter. If you use more than two of them then the angles get staggered more, but it is still an issue. I don't think this would be as much of an issue with sets where the inside cutters have 4 or more teeth. But even so, the difference is . . .say . . a blond hair. No wait! Make that a red hair. :-)
You could probably reduce this by using some sort of shim (tape?) on the arbor so that the blades fit more snuggly, but I have not tried it.
Wayne
"SwampBug" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@corp.supernews.com... anyone using or have used this blade? Curious about how clean and flat the dado bottom is with it. I am currently using a set from HF but do not think it is suitable for much fine work.
Thank you mp, i caught that. I should have said "I doubt if any = blade eliminates that!"=20
--=20 SwampBug
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Please note I said "slight" V groove. It's not all that noticeable after =
assembly and glueup, but if you take a magnifying glass (or electron=20 microscope for the more affluent newsgroup members), you'll see it.=20
That is why I was inquiring about this set. My HF set has a problem with = a sloppy arbor hole and the quality of the dado bottom varies with each = setup. I was hoping the SD208 was significantly better then that.
--=20 SwampBug
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quite flat bottomed, but the sides have been clean on everything I have = cut=20 except for some veneer plywood that I used. That plywood would not cut=20 cleanly for anything with any blade that I used, even sharp ones :-). = To=20 see the unevenness of the dado bottoms from the end, you would have to = get=20 very close to the piece, and be looking for it to see that it was not=20 absolutely flat. Besides, it gives the glue someplace to go. :-)
The bottoms are not flat because of the difference between the hole in = the=20 blade and the size of the arbor. For example, if the size of the hole = was=20 actually .628", and the diameter of the arbor was actually .622", then = you=20 have a potential of .006" variance in depth from blade to blade. The = inner=20 cutters of the SD208 are only two tooth and are supposed to be mounted = at=20 right angles to each other. Since one would be vertical, and the next = one=20 to it is supposed to be horzontal, they fit on the arbor differently = which=20 results in a dado with a bottom where you can see the swathe cut by each =
cutter. If you use more than two of them then the angles get staggered=20 more, but it is still an issue. I don't think this would be as much of = an=20 issue with sets where the inside cutters have 4 or more teeth. But even = so,=20 the difference is . . .say . . a blond hair. No wait! Make that a red = hair.=20 :-)
You could probably reduce this by using some sort of shim (tape?) on the =
arbor so that the blades fit more snuggly, but I have not tried it.
Wayne
--=20 SwampBug
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That is good to hear as I also have a Delta contractor style table saw. = Thanks, The best price I have found for it just now is $90 from Amazon = without their 'card' which I am still considering.
--=20 SwampBug
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Might try using some tape on the arbor to tighten up the fit.
Wayne
"SwampBug" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@corp.supernews.com... That is why I was inquiring about this set. My HF set has a problem with a sloppy arbor hole and the quality of the dado bottom varies with each setup. I was hoping the SD208 was significantly better then that.
Have you tried that? Won't the tape interfere with the arbor nut?
--=20 SwampBug
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Wayne
--=20 SwampBug
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The bottoms are not flat because of the difference between the hole in = the blade and the size of the arbor. For example, if the size of the hole = was actually .628", and the diameter of the arbor was actually .622", then = you have a potential of .006" variance in depth from blade to blade. The = inner cutters of the SD208 are only two tooth and are supposed to be mounted = at right angles to each other. Since one would be vertical, and the next = one to it is supposed to be horzontal, they fit on the arbor differently = which results in a dado with a bottom where you can see the swathe cut by each cutter. If you use more than two of them then the angles get staggered more, but it is still an issue. I don't think this would be as much of = an issue with sets where the inside cutters have 4 or more teeth. But even = so, the difference is . . .say . . a blond hair. No wait! Make that a red = hair. :-)
You could probably reduce this by using some sort of shim (tape?) on the arbor so that the blades fit more snuggly, but I have not tried it.
Wayne
--=20 SwampBug
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Use Teflon tape. It is very thin, compresses nicely and has no adhesive to clean off. I use it sometimes to press things together that are not quite a press fit. max
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