I recently purchased a set of Freud Super S508 Dado Blades. I was under the impression that a couple of the blades that came in the set we under 1/8" thick. I I phoned Freud Canada and they told me that they don't measure the tooth they measure the steel body. Are Blades under 1/8 just not safe enough stability wise? Do some manufacturers sell narrower blades?
"k":
My Systematic set came with 4) 1/8" chippers and 1) 1/16" chipper. (steel body size)
---Woodson
What are you trying to do?
I know of no blade (for a full size saw, anyway) w/ a kerf < 1/8".
Dado set chippers may be thinner plate, but they're designed to run between the two outer blades and the teeth may overlap. So their actual width is probably 1/8" minimum, yes.
Some Dremel or other rotary tool attachment blades are very thin, otoh...
I don't know how thin one a kerf one of the little 3-5" trim saws blades might ...
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Mine too.
however,
Web page has parts for S508 dado set to include 1 ea 3/32" chipper and only 1 ea 1/16" chipper and 4 ea. 1/8" chippers.
Per the chart of chippers used, the dimension is the teeth cutting kerf. For example: to cut a dado of 17/32 inches wide, takes the Left and Right outside blades (1/4 inch together) plus one 1/8" chipper + the 3/32" chipper + the 1/16" inch chipper.
Unless they sell a different product in Canada than USA, the OP is correct, there should be two chippers that are less than 1/8" less tooth kerf wide.
PHil
According to the Freud site the SD500 series blades, I suppose yours falls in that category, comes with (4) 1/8, (1) 3/32, and (1) 1/16 chippers. If yours does not have those I would suspect that your set is short. You should have shims also.
For a dado set you are only concerned with the total width of the dado with various combinations of the two outer blads and the chippers. When stacked on the motor arbor the blade bodies are stacked up against one another - thus the thickness of the blade bodies are what determines the total width of the dado. By stacking the blade bodies, shims can be placed between the bodies t fine tune the width by 0.01 inches.
As a previous poster mentioned, the carbide tips will overlap - the overlap is also needed so that you can place shims between the blades and still make a complete cut.
So get out your calipers and measure the bladed thicknesses.
I purchased the Forrest Dado King a few years ago. It has a the 1/8 inch chippers plus a couple that are under
1/8 to solve the problem. In addition, they supply a number of shims to do some fine tuning.Len
MB wrote:
Matsushita in 10" is commonly available in 3/32 kerf. in 9" you can get 5/64 FWIW
It's a bit more complicated than that, though.
You are right in that for the chippers, it's the plate thickness and not the width of the tip that should be considered.
For the two outer blades, however, it's the plate thickness plus the outside tooth clearance (the amount that the teeth stick out past the plate). It's not a big deal, but if you're measuring and adding up plate thicknesses you'll always come up a bit shy of the actual cut.
John Martin
John Martin wrote: ...
Except of course for those cases where you don't... :)
Forrest
10" x 80 tooth .060" Rim - DURALINE THIN-RIM Saw BladeModel: TR10802080 Diameter: 10" Kerf: .080" Plate: .095 ...
:)
For OP, though, I had forgotten about these and the thinner blades that are roughly 0.090" for a 10" iirc...
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Are these thickness numbers bass-ackwards? I smell wood burning.
Dave in Houston
No, it's the THIN-RIM ...the plate dimension is for the center, not the rim...they didn't provide the reduced rim plate dimension.
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