Freud 2+2


I finally got my router bit set. I canceled the Amazon.com and ordered it from routerbitworld.com, received it in few days!
The rail and stile have bearings, but not the raised panel bit? Is the 2+2 supposed not to have a bearing?
Chuck
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If you look closely you'll notice that the cutters don't run all the way up to the shaft. I've always supposed that you just setup the fence so the panel only extends over to the end of the cutters, clear of the shaft.
The only place this scenario breaks down is for panels with a raidused/curved top. I suppose it that case you can make a fence with two pins.
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CNT wrote:

How are you going to follow a pattern for arched or cathedral doors w/o a bearing?
Dave
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I wasn't aware of that (the raised panel bit wouldn't have a bearing). So this mean I will have to guess work the depth of panel cuts? I like to make all the panel cuts the same. Is this common with other brands (CMT, etc)?
Also, the question below comes up too, how?

Chuck
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CNT wrote:

Not sure I understand the intent of your first sentence, Chuck. Regardless, here's the deal: to use your raised panel bit to follow a pattern, you need a pilot bearing (two actually--one larger than the other to give you the first cut. You can't start with the bit lower in the table if there is a backcutter). I use the CMT with backcutter and 2 bearings to cut cathedral arch doors in 2 passes.
this sounds like a conversation I had (was it with you?) about 2 months ago.
Dave
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I am now just confused. I haven't used the bits yet, thinking about having to return it. I can understand using the fence to adjust the depth of the cut, but the bearing would make it a perfect depth everytime.
Do you guys do raised panels with backcutter and without the bearing?
Chuck
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CNT wrote:

if you are doing straight panels you don't need a bearing.
if you do curves (you use a template) you need a bearing to follow the template
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ALL 2+2 cutters come with a bearing EXCEPT those with a backcutter 99-566/99-569. You have to decide if you do or do not need the bearing.
CNT wrote:

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Biggest trick that caught me.

Why is that? A bearing would not only be good for curves, but would give same cutting depth for all panels sides. I change the 3 bits often, so a bearing on the raised panel (with backcutter) would give me same depth everytime (instead of rely on tape measure on the table or a template).
Look like I will have to return the brand new Freud and go for the top, CMT The CMT do not have a set of that style, so I will have to spend about $260 for a pair of rail/stile and a panel bit.
Chuck
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CNT wrote:

yes, the bearing sets the cutting depth from the edge on ALL cuts, straight or curved. YOu don't take the bearing off. You don't BUY a bit w/o a bearing IF you need to do template cuts.
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Maybe there will need be a vote or a debate now...
I just called Freud rep. He said that the 2+2 with backcutter do not have bearing. He said that the shaft is the final cutting depth. It is designed to go all the way and use it as if it had a bearing. Comments?
Chuck

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CNT wrote:

I made the mistake of buying a Freud crown molding bit. It is the lamest bit I've ever bought because it won't cut at the top or bottom of the bit, so the wood either has to be no wider than the bit or you have to cut grooves precisely at the right height on the stock. If you don't the bit burns the hell out of the stock. I called Freud. they said that's the way it's designed. Gimme a frickin' break!!
OTOH I love their adjustable tongue and groove set. I comes with at least 2,000 shims (ok, I'm exaggerating, but it comes with a lot more than any CMT bit I have).
I can't comment on what Freud told you. BUT, how does the shaft follow a pattern, my friend???? How do you change the cutting depth from the edge for two passes when using a pattern??? Hmmm??? Hmmm???
Dave
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I do make three straight passes, 1/4" off at a time (with raised panels).
I haven't done any curves yet. I believe it's OK to do the curves with full cuts (one pass). Just have to be extra careful, and top of that is cutting the curves along. This is how I saw the reps did at the WW shows.
I decide to keep it and made few cuts with it. Noticed the backcutter came out the same depth as my $65 ones, but the cove is 1/4" longer. I don't think I like it that long, but I need to do more before I decide on anything.
Forgot to mention that Freud rep that I spoke with earlier today did mention that the red paint (shaft) will eventually rub off onto the wood, and added that it's no big deal since that part would be hidden in the grooves of the rail/stile.
As to your question (below), to me, the pattern (template) are used only with straight flush bits (example, Freud #42-110 or #50-110). Then take off the pattern, shovel it (fully) into the raised panel bit (with backcutter). Huh?
Chuck

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CNT wrote:

You are gonna be in for a surprise (not a happy one) if you emulate the reps at the WW shows. One pass will guarantee you'll be throwing some wood out due to tear out, besides which one pass is too deep if the bit is 3-1/2" diameter. What IS the diameter of the bit you have?
Remember the warning "don't try this at home"? :)
Dave
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http://www.freudtools.com/woodworkers/rep/router_bits/Router_Bits/Rsd_Panel /html/Rsd_Panel_1.html
It's the 99-569.

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