I finally got my router bit set. I canceled the Amazon.com and ordered it
from routerbitworld.com, received it in few days!
The rail and stile have bearings, but not the raised panel bit? Is the 2+2
supposed not to have a bearing?
If you look closely you'll notice that the cutters don't run all the
way up to the shaft. I've always supposed that you just setup the fence
so the panel only extends over to the end of the cutters, clear of the
The only place this scenario breaks down is for panels with a
raidused/curved top. I suppose it that case you can make a fence with
I wasn't aware of that (the raised panel bit wouldn't have a bearing). So
this mean I will have to guess work the depth of panel cuts? I like to make
all the panel cuts the same. Is this common with other brands (CMT, etc)?
Also, the question below comes up too, how?
Not sure I understand the intent of your first sentence, Chuck.
Regardless, here's the deal: to use your raised panel bit to follow a
pattern, you need a pilot bearing (two actually--one larger than the
other to give you the first cut. You can't start with the bit lower in
the table if there is a backcutter). I use the CMT with backcutter and
2 bearings to cut cathedral arch doors in 2 passes.
this sounds like a conversation I had (was it with you?) about 2 months ago.
I am now just confused. I haven't used the bits yet, thinking about having
to return it. I can understand using the fence to adjust the depth of the
cut, but the bearing would make it a perfect depth everytime.
Do you guys do raised panels with backcutter and without the bearing?
Why is that? A bearing would not only be good for curves, but would give
same cutting depth for all panels sides. I change the 3 bits often, so a
bearing on the raised panel (with backcutter) would give me same depth
everytime (instead of rely on tape measure on the table or a template).
Look like I will have to return the brand new Freud and go for the top, CMT
The CMT do not have a set of that style, so I will have to spend about $260
for a pair of rail/stile and a panel bit.
Maybe there will need be a vote or a debate now...
I just called Freud rep. He said that the 2+2 with backcutter do not have
bearing. He said that the shaft is the final cutting depth. It is designed
to go all the way and use it as if it had a bearing. Comments?
I made the mistake of buying a Freud crown molding bit. It is the
lamest bit I've ever bought because it won't cut at the top or bottom of
the bit, so the wood either has to be no wider than the bit or you have
to cut grooves precisely at the right height on the stock. If you don't
the bit burns the hell out of the stock. I called Freud. they said
that's the way it's designed. Gimme a frickin' break!!
OTOH I love their adjustable tongue and groove set. I comes with at
least 2,000 shims (ok, I'm exaggerating, but it comes with a lot more
than any CMT bit I have).
I can't comment on what Freud told you. BUT, how does the shaft follow
a pattern, my friend???? How do you change the cutting depth from the
edge for two passes when using a pattern??? Hmmm??? Hmmm???
I do make three straight passes, 1/4" off at a time (with raised panels).
I haven't done any curves yet. I believe it's OK to do the curves with full
cuts (one pass). Just have to be extra careful, and top of that is cutting
the curves along. This is how I saw the reps did at the WW shows.
I decide to keep it and made few cuts with it. Noticed the backcutter came
out the same depth as my $65 ones, but the cove is 1/4" longer. I don't
think I like it that long, but I need to do more before I decide on
Forgot to mention that Freud rep that I spoke with earlier today did
mention that the red paint (shaft) will eventually rub off onto the wood,
and added that it's no big deal since that part would be hidden in the
grooves of the rail/stile.
As to your question (below), to me, the pattern (template) are used only
with straight flush bits (example, Freud #42-110 or #50-110). Then take off
the pattern, shovel it (fully) into the raised panel bit (with backcutter).
You are gonna be in for a surprise (not a happy one) if you emulate the
reps at the WW shows. One pass will guarantee you'll be throwing some
wood out due to tear out, besides which one pass is too deep if the bit
is 3-1/2" diameter. What IS the diameter of the bit you have?
Remember the warning "don't try this at home"? :)
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