I'm new to resawing (as you may have guessed from my previous post)...I've found resawing "free-hand" without the use of a resaw fence to be easier than using the "fence." The resaw fence seems to restrict the ability to correct for lead and wander, but maybe I'm doing something wrong. What advice would ya'll give to a newbie sawer? Thanks in advance!
Tune up your saw, get a Timberwolf blade from Suffolk Machine and eliminate the wander you are getting.
I use a standard fence and can slice as thin a piece as I like and do not have to make any corrections for lead. Others share my experience. Ed snipped-for-privacy@snet.net
I went to a Scott Philips demonstration about bandsaw tuning. He says that a properly tuned saw should have no lead and did the demo right in front of us.
He tensioned the blade more than most. He goes by deflection, not the scale on the saw's knob. He recommends cool blocks over rollers or other blade guides. It is also critical to get the blade to ride the crown of the wheel. Ed snipped-for-privacy@snet.net
Thankyou for all your suggestions. I have Duginske's Bandsaw Handbook and will tune my saw per his reccomendations. One reason I went with the JET 18 is because I understood that roller guides, such as carters were generally considered favorable to coolblocks. Anyhow, I'm sure this is negligible once the saw is tuned properly and has a good (tw) blade. Thanks again!!
I have the Duginski book also. He differs with Scott Phillips on how to tune a saw. I have no experience with rollers guides. One may be better than the other, or it may make no difference if everything else is in proper shape. Ed
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