Frank Klausz Inspired Dovetail Process PDF in a.b.p.w.

Didn't know where else to put it so I posted the PDF file to alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking Hand Cutting A Dovetailed Drawer - 428K PDF
The file ios 438K on my computer, 652K when uploaded - which is why I didn't put the PDF version on my site - space, as in the shop, is always an issue.
I've got the Mac version of Acrobat 5.0 and created the PDF via Tools-Web Capture-Open Web Page for the first page then Tools-Web Capture-Append Web Page. Cumbersome because I've got some web pages like 6A, 6B and 6C, necessitated by revisions to the original pages.
Anyway - the PDF file is available. If it gets someone to try handcutting dovetails then it was worth the effort to do the PDF. If not, I still learned something about Acrobat.
charlie b
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charlieb wrote:

Usually the tools of my neighbor that I covet are of the edged or motorized variety. One friend has an all-in-one printer/scanner that scans directly to a PDF file. Drop in the stack of sheets, hit the button and enjoy your favorite beverage. I'd like one of those.
Thanks for posting the PDF, Charlie.
R
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Thanks Charlie. I'll download it to my drive. I've watched his video a few times and am amazed every time I do. I've dabbled with DT's but have never gotten serious with them. Sounds like with his video and your PDF, I have no more excuses! I much prefer Neandering for some things and I should add DT's to the list. Cheers, cc
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Don't know how it works on a MAC but on a PC if I take a document I just printed to Adobe, open it then 'Save As' the pdf gets smaller. The status bar flashes messages like 'optimizing for web viewing' and 'removing duplicate items'.
I'm not really sure what Adobe is doing I just know that after the Save As the file size is less.
YMMV
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RayV wrote:

Well there are several things I had to consider
1. I wanted ALL the pages in one PDF file 2. I wanted ALL the pages in order and since 6A, 6B and 6C may not be handled quite like a human would handle it . . . 3. Each "page" is actually a GIF image - PLUS the links to the index, previous page, next page etc. Line drawings and text get compressed nicely with GIF files and seem to print faster than JPEG files. GIF also maintains the text clarity better. 4. Acrobat inserts page breaks so I had to delete the acrobat pages that had only the links described above. 5. Though I bought the aftermarket book on Acrobat 5.0 I must admit I haven't read it - though I have looked for things in it - often to no avail. Acrobat wasn't developed by Adobe, but rather they bought out Frame Technology IIRC and put their name on the product. Once it was in house and Adobe's software developers had picked the Frame peoples minds, they "let the Frame people go". They haven't seemed to get the user interface up to typical user friendly and intuitive use Apple standards.
Question is - you gonna try handcut dovetails?
charlie b
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Yeah, one of these days. Hoping to finish my workbench this weekend that way I'll be able to reliably clamp a board.
Now, what page of the Lee Valley catalog has the backsaws...
Does this count as 'handcut'? http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&pA718&cat=1,42884
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RayV wrote:

I think it counts. You still have to chop out the waste. If you're cutting a half-blind joint, you still have to finish the edges of the pins, too. (A recent issue of Fine Woodworking contained the suggestion to hammer a sharp card scraper into the partial kerf until it is as deep as the joint. It works like a charm.)
Without that angle cutting doohickey, I could never cut a dovetail. With it, I got it right on my second try. It's money well spent, in my opinion.
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Ken McIsaac wrote:

Tage Frid's tape on handcutting dovetails has him using a piece of bandsaw blade, teeth ground off, duct tape handle, single bevel ground on one side.
Don't get too heavy handed with the mallet though or you may split your drawer face (DAMHIKT).

If it gets you doing handcut dovetails . . .
charlie b
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RayV wrote:

Sure. If it gets you to try it you'll soon get frustrated with the Training Wheels and cut dovetails without them. You'll still have to do the layout/marking and socket cleanout so most of the skills will get developed.
Or you could skip the guide and get their $8.95 "General Purpose Razor Saw" (catalogue number 60F03.12) AND their "Ultra-Thin Razor Saw" (catalogue number 60F03.10) for another $4.95 - and practice cutting straight lines to just "leave the line". Both these barrel handled saws cut on the pull stroke like Japanese saws. Shorter handle though. The $8.95 saw is great for doing dovetails in narrower stuff - the 24 tpi is a bit slow no thick stock - 3/4" or thicker. The $4.95 one with 52 tpi and a much smaller depth of cut is more of a model/musical instrument maker's saw - but hey, if you want to do dovetails in really thin stock . I use it to part off small turnings, the 0.010" kerf is thinner than my narrowest 1/16th inch (0.0625") parting tool.
Bonus - both saws are Made In The U.S.A.
charlie b
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RayV wrote:

I have that saw, and am very pleased with it. I originally bought it for dovetails, and it works well for that. I also use it for other things when I need a narrow kerf.
Tanus
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