Forrest WWII

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I recently bought and love the Forrest Chopmaster blade for the mitre saw. Yesterday while ripping on the table saw, I decided that I didn't like the CMT general purpose blade that I've been using. How does the Forrest WWII blade compare with the Chopmaster? I've read the posts that say "after running a board throught he joiner, I pass it through the tablesaw to clean up the edge" and I can almost believe it after seeing the Chopmaster results.
For those that have both blades, how do the cuts between the two blades compare? Can you get a smooth enough edge with the WWII that doesn't require sanding?
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I only have the 10" Forrest WWII, I believe my 12" miter blade is Jesada. I don't need to sand after ripping or cross cutting with the Forrest. Mine is the thin kerf (3/32) version. I am giving serious thought to getting another 1/8" blade or putting stabilizers on the thin kerf blade though to further improve a good cut.
Phil
Thomas Mitchell wrote:

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Ah... I was going to get the 3/32 kerf version as well. If you had things to do over again, would you get the 1/8" blade instead?
PC wrote:

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Yes, I plan to order a 1/8" blade next. The only consideration is that it will rrequire more energy to cut. I'm working now with 2" plus birch now and not having any problem with a 2 HP motor.
Phil
Thomas Mitchell wrote:

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Don't worry about getting the 1/8" kerf blade, I believe those blades are for saws with less than 1hp.. Years ago before stepping up to the Forrest I stepped up from a thin kerf to a reg kerf Systematic. That wan one a 1 hp Craftsmen. The wider kerf Systematic cut smoother and better than the thin kerf.

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Boy, I'll second that. Once I went with a 1/8" blade, I never looked back. Delegated some (excellant quality) of my others to rough cutting and cutting scraps lumber. Also, I did not know it when I bought it but my new Biesmeyer spreader/splitter DEMANDS a 1/8" kerf blade.
On Sat, 02 Aug 2003 23:12:18 GMT, "Leon"

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I have a jet contractors saw. I use the 1/8" blade to cut 8/4 purpleheart padouk ebony and such with no problems. it cuts faster then the 1/8" 20t rip blade. the only problem it has is when the wood binds on the blade. the rip blade was not mc uh effected by that.
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no need to get a thin kerf blade. You get flex in the blade and so less accurate cuts.
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I get the same xcut results with an " Everlast" blade ,The surface almost shines . But then as I did not buy the blade to give a sanded finish and in cases where glueing up the surface need some roughness to provide a little key for the glue .
There is a difference between Forrest and most other equivant blades, they are generally twice the price . Should you pay those kind of prices who is going to say they got rooked ......mjh
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I do have a WWII on my TS.
Yes indeed you can get an edge with the WWII that's so smooth it doesn't require sanding -- as long as your saw is properly tuned.
-- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
Save the baby humans - stop partial-birth abortion NOW
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I have both and the cuts are comparable. IME, on end grain the ChopMaster exhibits the smoother cut ... but that is pretty much what it is designed to do. Rip or Xcut cuts with the WWII rarely need sanding or jointing if the saw is set up properly.
I wouldn't want to do without either of these blades.
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wrote:

Do they have a name for the type of blade?...other than WWII...whatever that is.
Does Forest sell TYPES of blades?
I was having problems with rough looking cuts...and a friend of mine sent me out to get a hollow ground planer blade. I bought the Craftsman brand...and its like night and day compared to a regular blade...like a rip, crosscut, plywood, etc. There's never any need for sanding.
I don't know very much about blades...so I'm tryin' to learn. But I thought a planer blade was something that most companies would sell...especially since Sears had it.
BTW...the 10" table saw blade cost me about $10...which I thought was downright cheap.
Have a nice week...
Trent
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They have several blades for different uses. Woodworker II is designed for ripping on a TS, etc. http://www.forrestblades.com/onlinecat.htm
Not inexpensive, but, as the saying goes, in the long run it's less expensive to buy one quality blade than many cheap ones. These are outstanding quality.
| wrote: | | >In the past year I bought them in the reverse order. WWII first. The effortless and clean cuts it | >produced were remarkable. It actually leaves an almost polished surface on some woods. I say | >"almost", as that would not be desireable for glue joints. I then purchased the Chopmaster which I | >am equally pleased with. | > | >I'm not affiliated with The Company in any way except as a very satisfied consumer | | Do they have a name for the type of blade?...other than | WWII...whatever that is. | | Does Forest sell TYPES of blades? | | I was having problems with rough looking cuts...and a friend of mine | sent me out to get a hollow ground planer blade. I bought the | Craftsman brand...and its like night and day compared to a regular | blade...like a rip, crosscut, plywood, etc. There's never any need | for sanding. | | I don't know very much about blades...so I'm tryin' to learn. But I | thought a planer blade was something that most companies would | sell...especially since Sears had it. | | BTW...the 10" table saw blade cost me about $10...which I thought was | downright cheap. | | | Have a nice week... | | Trent | | Follow Joan Rivers' example --- get pre-embalmed!
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For $10, you don't have a blade; you have a steel disk with notches cut into it.
wrote:

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TRY one, you'll like it
to your last question: YES
dave
"Trent" wrote:

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On Fri, 01 Aug 2003 20:14:24 -0500, Lawrence A. Ramsey

for that price you got to feel lucky it has notches (G)
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Until you have your saw set up properly and use a Forrest WWII, you will never really appreciate what this blade will do. For years I putzed around with lessor $60. blades and a hand full of the Craftsman blades. I now own 2 WWII's and they are the minimum standard that is acceptable to me now.

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Well said ... not to mention that EVERY employed cabinet and furniture maker I know goes through more than one Forrest WWII a year. Was walking into the WW show in Houston earlier in the year and one of Houston's best known was walking out with ten!
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(snipped)
Trent wrote: I would NEVER spend $100+ for a saw blade.
I said exactly that many times, too. But the last time I needed a blade,I decided to pry open the wallet just to prove that the talk about Forrest was all hype. But it's not. The cuts are unlike any I had ever seen; and as unlikely as it seems, $100 is a good price considering what you get.

No, you're not wrong - your observations are what they are. But you will find that the cut a WWII gives you is something beyond your experience. All this is just my opinion, of course
Regards,
David
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