Forrest WWII

[Thomas Mitchell]

I recently bought and love the Forrest Chopmaster blade for the mitre saw. Yesterday while ripping on the table saw, I decided that I didn't like the CMT general purpose blade that I've been using. How does the Forrest WWII blade compare with the Chopmaster? I've read the posts that say "after running a board throught he joiner, I pass it through the tablesaw to clean up the edge" and I can almost believe it after seeing the Chopmaster results.

For those that have both blades, how do the cuts between the two blades compare? Can you get a smooth enough edge with the WWII that doesn't require sanding?

[PC]

I only have the 10" Forrest WWII, I believe my 12" miter blade is Jesada. I don't need to sand after ripping or cross cutting with the Forrest. Mine is the thin kerf (3/32) version. I am giving serious thought to getting another 1/8" blade or putting stabilizers on the thin kerf blade though to further improve a good cut.

Phil

Thomas Mitchell wrote:

[Doug Miller]

I don't have a Chopmaster (mostly because I have a RAS instead of a CMS), but I do have a WWII on my TS.

Yes indeed you can get an edge with the WWII that's so smooth it doesn't require sanding -- as long as your saw is properly tuned.

-- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

Save the baby humans - stop partial-birth abortion NOW

[Swingman]

I have both and the cuts are comparable. IME, on end grain the ChopMaster exhibits the smoother cut ... but that is pretty much what it is designed to do. Rip or Xcut cuts with the WWII rarely need sanding or jointing if the saw is set up properly.

I wouldn't want to do without either of these blades.

[Trent©]

effortless and clean cuts it

some woods. I say

the Chopmaster which I

Do they have a name for the type of blade?...other than WWII...whatever that is.

Does Forest sell TYPES of blades?

I was having problems with rough looking cuts...and a friend of mine sent me out to get a hollow ground planer blade. I bought the Craftsman brand...and its like night and day compared to a regular blade...like a rip, crosscut, plywood, etc. There's never any need for sanding.

I don't know very much about blades...so I'm tryin' to learn. But I thought a planer blade was something that most companies would sell...especially since Sears had it.

BTW...the 10" table saw blade cost me about $10...which I thought was downright cheap.

Have a nice week...

Trent

Follow Joan Rivers' example --- get pre-embalmed!

[Prosecutor]

They have several blades for different uses. Woodworker II is designed for ripping on a TS, etc.

inexpensive, but, as the saying goes, in the long run it's less expensive to buy one quality blade than many cheap ones. These are outstanding quality.

| >I'm not affiliated with The Company in any way except as a very satisfied consumer | | Do they have a name for the type of blade?...other than | WWII...whatever that is. | | Does Forest sell TYPES of blades? | | I was having problems with rough looking cuts...and a friend of mine | sent me out to get a hollow ground planer blade. I bought the | Craftsman brand...and its like night and day compared to a regular | blade...like a rip, crosscut, plywood, etc. There's never any need | for sanding. | | I don't know very much about blades...so I'm tryin' to learn. But I | thought a planer blade was something that most companies would | sell...especially since Sears had it. | | BTW...the 10" table saw blade cost me about $10...which I thought was | downright cheap. | | | Have a nice week... | | Trent | | Follow Joan Rivers' example --- get pre-embalmed!

[Lawrence A. Ramsey]

effortless and clean cuts it

some woods. I say

the Chopmaster which I

[Mike Fairleigh]

I have both. You must understand that there are more variables at work on a table saw than on a miter saw. The WWII has extremely low clearances between the teeth and the plate. So you have much less margin for error in terms of fence alignment, miter gauge alignment, proper feeding technique, etc. Pitch buildup on the blade will begin to cause problems a little sooner than it would on other blades. You also will more easily see the effects of twist and other imperfections in the wood while using the WWII. Now, having said all that, if your saw is properly set up and adjusted and you keep the blade clean, the WWII produces every bit the quality of cut as the Chopmaster. I've got two WWII's (one with a flat tooth profile), the Chopmaster, and the 8" Dado King and I wouldn't trade any of them.

Mike Fairleigh

[bay area dave]

TRY one, you'll like it

to your last question: YES

dave

"Trent©" wrote:

[Steve Knight]

for that price you got to feel lucky it has notches (G)

[Thomas Mitchell]

So you are saying the blade will show me the imperfections in the set up of my saw and techniques, making me a better wood worker. So much the better. :)

Why two WWII's? What is the difference between the flat tooth profile and the alternate bevel profile? Seems like either would give you a flat bottom in a cut that doesn't go all the way through the wood.

[Thomas Mitchell]

[Leon]

"Trent©"

Until you have your saw set up properly and use a Forrest WWII, you will never really appreciate what this blade will do. For years I putzed around with lessor $60. blades and a hand full of the Craftsman blades. I now own

2 WWII's and they are the minimum standard that is acceptable to me now.

[Jane & David]

(snipped)

Trent© wrote: I would NEVER spend $100+ for a saw blade.

I said exactly that many times, too. But the last time I needed a blade,I decided to pry open the wallet just to prove that the talk about Forrest was all hype. But it's not. The cuts are unlike any I had ever seen; and as unlikely as it seems, $100 is a good price considering what you get.

No, you're not wrong - your observations are what they are. But you will find that the cut a WWII gives you is something beyond your experience. All this is just my opinion, of course

Regards,

David

[Swingman]

Well said ... not to mention that EVERY employed cabinet and furniture maker I know goes through more than one Forrest WWII a year. Was walking into the WW show in Houston earlier in the year and one of Houston's best known was walking out with ten!

[PC]

Yes, I plan to order a 1/8" blade next. The only consideration is that it will rrequire more energy to cut. I'm working now with 2" plus birch now and not having any problem with a 2 HP motor.

Phil

Thomas Mitchell wrote:

[Mike Fairleigh]

No, while the standard ATB profile is needed to produce the clean crosscuts the WWII provides, it will leave an inverted "V" profile in the bottom of a kerf. For most applications this is not a problem but I like to use a flat-ground one for things like splines. A lot of people just use one of the outside plates from a stacked dado set for this purpose, but I like having a 10" version.

Mike Fairleigh

[Steve Knight]

no need to get a thin kerf blade. You get flex in the blade and so less accurate cuts.

[Steve Knight]

hell I thought the same thing. after i wasted about the same amount on a couple of high quality rip blades that the forrest blew away I felt a bit silly. when a 30t forrest blade out rips two different 20t rip blades (a cmt and a good brand) that says something. I can rip faster and cleaner with the forrest blade.

[Leon]

Don't worry about getting the 1/8" kerf blade, I believe those blades are for saws with less than 1hp.. Years ago before stepping up to the Forrest I stepped up from a thin kerf to a reg kerf Systematic. That wan one a 1 hp Craftsmen. The wider kerf Systematic cut smoother and better than the thin kerf.