I recently sent a relatively new 80T Forrest Chopmaster back for
reflattening after it got stuck in some 8/4 maple on my SCMS. I
included my credit card number for payment and asked them to repair as
Forrest called me and stated that the blade looked like it had been
kicked back or involved in a similar bind and had spun on the arbor.
This created heat in the center of the blade, which warped the blade
body. I stated that they were exactly right, and explained the
Forrest's response was that "they were sending the blade back to me".
I took this as a statement that the blade was beyond repair.
It arrived today via UPS Blue, perfectly flat and sharp, with the
_NO CHARGE_, including shipping back to me.
Dave, not to crap on the thread, but I can echo your sentiments exactly, re
the Makita 70 tooth blade that comes w/ the SCMS. I bought a Freud 80 tooth
blade to act as my "good" blade, and erroneously decided to use the Makita
as my "hog" blade. In hindsight I should have done the opposite. FWIW I'm
going to the Makita service center and see how much a new 70 tooth blade is,
and make the Freud my "hog" blade.
I've also heard good things about the Makita blade.
However, I own both a Freud 80T and a Forrest Chopmaster 80T, and all
I can say is that you get what you pay for when comparing those two.
I'm going to get out and check out that Makita saw, since my Delta
SCMS seems to have some new arbor runout. 8^(
I'm surprised. Let me qualify that by stating I'm ignorant, as well.
How is it that Forrest would feel responsible (don't get me wrong, I'm
glad they have this ethic!) for the blade warping after such an event?
I suppose a well-made blade wouldn't have any warp even after such an
event, and that it did warp is an indication the blade was not fully
annealed as manufactured?
I don't know. I expected to pay for the repair. _I_ got the blade
stuck, and made no attempt to blame Forrest. I have done business
with them before, taking advantage of their carbide blade sharpening,
even if it's not their blade.
Wanna' bet? <G> Good blades are designed to dissipate heat
developed in the kerf, at the edges. The center of the blade
shouldn't touch anything during a good cut,as the teeth are wider than
the blank. Also, the arbor, nut, and washer won't heat as quickly,
due to the sheer amount of metal present. This incident _quickly_
heated it from the center, the reverse of a proper cut. The likely
problem here is the crappy blade mounting bolt on my Delta SCMS. The
blade probably wouldn't have slipped on a saw with a better blade
I simply think it was mighty nice of them to take care of me, and feel
that it deserved a public thank you.
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