Forrest Rules!

[Ba r r y]

I recently sent a relatively new 80T Forrest Chopmaster back for reflattening after it got stuck in some 8/4 maple on my SCMS. I included my credit card number for payment and asked them to repair as necessary.

Forrest called me and stated that the blade looked like it had been kicked back or involved in a similar bind and had spun on the arbor. This created heat in the center of the blade, which warped the blade body. I stated that they were exactly right, and explained the details.

Forrest's response was that "they were sending the blade back to me". I took this as a statement that the blade was beyond repair.

It arrived today via UPS Blue, perfectly flat and sharp, with the teeth coated.

_NO CHARGE_, including shipping back to me.

NICE!

[brianlanning]

I already have a woodworker 2 and have been debating getting a chopmaster for my new PC 12" miter saw. Thanks for the info.

brian

[David]

I like my WWII on my TS, but I gotta mention that the stock blade that came with my Makita slider is a keeper. I wouldn't replace it, even for a Forrest. That blade leaves a glass smooth finish. I was pleasantly suprised that a stock blade could be so good.

dave

[Enoch Root]

I'm surprised. Let me qualify that by stating I'm ignorant, as well. How is it that Forrest would feel responsible (don't get me wrong, I'm glad they have this ethic!) for the blade warping after such an event?

I suppose a well-made blade wouldn't have any warp even after such an event, and that it did warp is an indication the blade was not fully annealed as manufactured?

er

[bridgerfafc]

no, they correctly diagnosed the failure as not their fault. they fixed it free to keep their customer happy.

[Enoch Root]

Or confused. :)

er

[Ba r r y]

I don't know. I expected to pay for the repair. _I_ got the blade stuck, and made no attempt to blame Forrest. I have done business with them before, taking advantage of their carbide blade sharpening, even if it's not their blade.

Wanna' bet? Good blades are designed to dissipate heat developed in the kerf, at the edges. The center of the blade shouldn't touch anything during a good cut,as the teeth are wider than the blank. Also, the arbor, nut, and washer won't heat as quickly, due to the sheer amount of metal present. This incident _quickly_ heated it from the center, the reverse of a proper cut. The likely problem here is the crappy blade mounting bolt on my Delta SCMS. The blade probably wouldn't have slipped on a saw with a better blade mount.

I simply think it was mighty nice of them to take care of me, and feel that it deserved a public thank you.

Barry

[Jeff Heyen]

Dave, not to crap on the thread, but I can echo your sentiments exactly, re the Makita 70 tooth blade that comes w/ the SCMS. I bought a Freud 80 tooth blade to act as my "good" blade, and erroneously decided to use the Makita as my "hog" blade. In hindsight I should have done the opposite. FWIW I'm going to the Makita service center and see how much a new 70 tooth blade is, and make the Freud my "hog" blade.

Jeff

[Ba r r y]

I've also heard good things about the Makita blade.

However, I own both a Freud 80T and a Forrest Chopmaster 80T, and all I can say is that you get what you pay for when comparing those two.

I'm going to get out and check out that Makita saw, since my Delta SCMS seems to have some new arbor runout. 8^(

[Enoch Root]

In addition, now I think about it, there's no treatment to stop warping if only the center of the blade is undergoing a heat expansion, short of embedding the blade in a block of titanium...

er

[Leon]

I strongly suspect that the blade is not back to factory specs. They probably got so far with the repair process and found that they could not fix er up good as new.

[Leon]

Good for you and Forrest Barry, however be aware that the fix may not last.

[Ba r r y]

Even if it dosen't, some additional use is better than what I had.

[Leon]

No doubt. I was not trying to rain on your parade BTY, just be careful until you know for sure how the blade is going to perform.