Forrest Blades

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For a few years now I have always answered Forrest WWII for the TS. I still recommend This blade. For those that have one but have not had it sharpened yet, let me share my experience. After a couple of years of use I decided that my WWII need to be sharpened. For years I had used my local sharpening service and 3 or 4 years ago they relocated and put in all kinds of computerized sharpening machines that could go to 600 grit sharpening. They did a good job. So, I naturally took my WWII to them 3 months ago to have it sharpened. They assured me that it would come back to me as good as new. It did not. While it cut like a hot knife through butter again, the cut was no longer glass smooth. Humm... I should have known... So I put up with it for 3 months. Tuesday I was in the middle of a job and needed to cut about a hundred 50 degree angles in Ipe. I cranked the bevel wheel over to about 20 degrees and the wheel got tight... Damn... the zero clearance insert was still in and there was my Forrest blade being realigned.... Yeah I bent it.... So this time its off to Forrest for repairs. I'll see how restore to factory specs goes. 2 weeks to get there and back and a week to do the repairs. 3 weeks turn around is what I am looking at.
Well I need a blade quick as I have another 2 jobs lined up. A call to 3D sales and another is on its way for $101.49 shipped to my door. That's a 40 tooth regular kerf WWII. 48 hours later the blade in my hands. I mount it on my saw and once again I see the quality of cut that Forrest is famous for.
Moral of the story.... I don"t know yet but I am extremely happy with 3D sales pricing, quick service, and quick shipping. I will be anxious to see the results of the "Back to factory specs" on my old Forrest when it arrives back home in 2 to 3 weeks.
Nope. no affiliation with 3D Sales.
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We cut a-lot of plastics at work and we have a Forrest no-melt and works great for plastics...We sent it back to Forrest to resharpen and came back just as it was when bought.......sent it to a local shop (not as good)and it was less $$ to do it....got it back made a few cuts and they were not up to par (for me at least).They said that was the best they could do .We sent it back to Forrest and will always send it to Forrest....Brian
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Glad to hear that Brian... more expensive or not, I want that factory fresh quality back...I really depend on those smooth cut edges not having to be sanded.

it
to
it
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Yes. If you do a Google for Forrest blades, you will find them on the first page. Quick service. Good prices. harrym

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Take a look here...
http://www.forrestblades.com/ 3D sales is not Forrest, but a retailer for Forrest blades.

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And I bought one today finally, shipped today.
HarryM wrote:

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the only bad part is I need to buy another set when I send these in for sharpening. I hate to go back to what I was using.
--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
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Hummm... ;~) A couple of inlay stripes going the length.... I would probably put them on the bottom side where they would never get noticed.. LOL
wrote:

noticed
did
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Harry, what is your point, I started this thread indicating that 3Dsales is about the best deal at the momment and they are who I bought from and received my blade withing 48 hours of ordering. Tennesssee to Houston. Perhaps your point is that you already realize that 3D Sales URL can be misleasing as to who you are actuqally buying from. To that, I totally agree. ;~)
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Got my WWII back from Forrest sharpening service yesterday .... put it back on the Unisaw this AM and ripped some white oak and 3/4" plywood.
Still haven't seen the credit card charges for the sharpening and shipping, but it cuts like it did when it was brand new ... awesome.
--
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My bill from Forrest was about $41.00 $20.00 to sharpen, $11.50 to straighten the blade. $2.50 for test cut, I requested that. $7.00 return shipping. I have a brand new Forrest to compare it to. I'll always have a spare now.
I got my second WWII 40 tooth reg. kerf blade from 3D Sales. $101.00 IIRC delivered in 2 days to my door step.

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shipping,
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for
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How many days elapsed between the day you mailed them the blade, to the day it was back in your shop?
dave
Leon wrote:

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Dave it took all of 3 weeks. 1 week to get there, 1 week to fixit, 1 week to return. That is Clifton NJ to Houston TX.

Leon
the
is
mandatory
in
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How much did that 2nd day shipping cost you?

it
that
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LOL... Too much! My wife had the day off work and offered to run it up to the UPS store for me. She opted for the second day since she knows how important the blade is. Ended up being about $23!!! When she got home I about died, thinking how it would end up costing over $50 to get the thing sharpened. I would've picked up a second one instead had I known the shipping would've been that much.
Course now that I have the thing back in hand, even as much $50 doesn't sound too bad considering its only every 2 years for me and with the way the WWII performs -- enough said.
--
Brian
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On Thu, 31 Jul 2003 23:02:05 -0400, "Brian D. LaVoie"

You probably could have sent it USPS Priority Mail for under $10. While they don't guarantee 2 day arrival, my experience has been great. I've mailed almost 100 Priority Mail eBay packages from CT and I've never had one take more than 2 days anywhere east of the Mississippi, and no more than 3 anywhere else, including Hawaii.
The USPS even provides free boxes to boot! <G>
Barry
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I am gonna need the straightening. had a kickback on the SCMS yesterday. first one in a long time.
http://www.knight-toolworks.com/pictures/scmsfix.jpg this was the one thing that pissed me off about the makita. the filler was not level with the top. well now it is.
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How do you know if the blade needs straightening?
-- Tim -------- See my page @ http://www.wood-workers.com/users/timv/ (seriously needs updating)
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Check the runout. If there is no runout at the arbor, but the blade has runout then you have a problem. Another method is to place it on a very flat surface and check to see that it sits flat (no wobble or high spots.
-Jack

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If you are familiar with the blade before it was bent, or any good blade for that matter, all you need to do is make a single cut ... you can tell immediately by observing the edges of the cut.
I could also tell by the feel and resistance to the feed of the workpiece by my WWII immediately after it was bent slightly by my attempting to tilt the blade against a zero clearance insert ... it didn't take much.
I guess you gotta do it once to learn not to do it again ... but, OTOH, I've seen some pretty good woodworkers pull the same stunt, some more than once.
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