For those of you not in snow country..
Some of you got dumped on..
It pays to get the snow off the 1st 2 feet of the roof. I have a snow
rake and get about 4 feet off. But assuming most of you southerners
don't have it.
Take a broom and try to get the 2 feet at the bottom of your roofs
cleared. It may save you lots of money in rotted wood, or your shop if
you have a basement shop.
Years ago the ice damn caused a lot of water to run inside the house and
it travelled the joists and soaked a lot of wood and also rusted a lot
Just an FYI..
It's the melting and freezing that's the problem.
When night comes and it refreezes it creates damns then the water runs
under the shingles when it melts again, since it can't go past the ice.,
and that's when you have problems.
Here in NJ, the roofs generally are pitched for moderate snow. Heavier
snows will cause problems.
My parent's house was the exact opposite. It was a farmhouse built
circa 1825 and had an extremely low pitch. To prevent the snow and ice
buildup we ran heating wires zigzagging about two feet up all along
the back of the house.
On Wed, 29 Jan 2014 23:38:57 -0500, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Keep the roof at a constant temperature and you won't get ice dams.
The problem arises then ice melts in the center of the roof and
refreezes at the soffits, where it's cooler. The idea is to ventilate
the roof so that it stays the same temperature across the span, as
over the soffits.
On Wed, 29 Jan 2014 12:54:45 -0700, Just Wondering
And millions that are not as water tight, so to err on the side of
caution is not a bad idea. I have found it really difficult to
determine whether it is "constructed right" by looking from the
Properly installed, "water and ice shield", you should be able to see it
under the drip edge, where it has been rolled over the fascia ... you
just have to get close enough to see if it's there.
It it is over the drip edge, the installation is suspect.
Amazingly enough, we do spec "water and ice shield" in our roofing
contracts down here in Texas ... at least those interested in doing
things right do.
But if you now have a nice accumulation of snow and do not "know" go
out and do the broom thing, get a bit of exercise too.
If it was my house getting a new roof, I would go for over kill and do
the whole roof with "water and ice shield". But the over the eaves and
valleys is best building practice for a roof.
My roof does not have any of the shielding, it has had over a foot of
snow maybe three times in the 6 years we have been here. It does not
leak, it is 3/12 pitch.
My guy in Bufallo had his office in his house.
At least twice a year his wife would call in and tell us Jim was
off the roof after a storm not only to keep ice dams from forming but
to reduce the snow load on the roof.
Every time we got that call could just visualize Jim loosing his
and sliding off the roof.
Never happened, but still didn't keep me from sweating the operation
until Jim got back in the house and off the roof.
Housing codes vary all over the country.
You can use an asphalt shingle roof in the North East & Midwest, but
are about as useful as tits on a boar hog in the desert SW where tile
a better job.
Different horses for different courses.
On Wed, 29 Jan 2014 12:54:45 -0700, Just Wondering
Built for southern conditions, then hit with snow, could conseivably
cause ide dam problems. We build differently in snow zones.
A "properly constructed" roof in Atlanta or New Orleans would not be
built to handle snow and freeze-thaw cycles.
I have never seen an ice dam form in AL. usually or snow events last for
10 hours or so and melt completely in a day or so.
If we have a mini ice age, I'll heed your warning.
What most southerners could really benefit from is rudimentary
driving lessons, for instance yesterday there was a little over an inch
on the roads, it's cold enough that it is a dry blowing snow over some
pack ice on the roads. People drove in the ditches by the tens of
thousands. I don't understand it.
I don't claim any great driving skill but I managed to drive 150 plus
miles in the same mess without any problems. (in a two wheel drive pickup)
No doubt, there could be some benefit all around the Country. Al has
zero requirements for drivers education other than a short written test
and a very limited road test.
If the parents aren't responsible enough to teach their kids, it is
basically here are the keys take off. It ends badly too often.
I'm surprised really that the Northern states aren't worse than shown,
considering the amount of snow that they have and the large populations.
Alabama probably averages less than one day a year of snow and ice.
Texas looks high, but on the other hand, the Dallas metro area alone has
1.5 times the entire population of Alabama.
The primary problem is they simply won't slow down sufficiently enough
to even have a half-chance when they do lose it when either
a) somebody in front loses it,
b) they try to pass on icy lane and lose it,
c) they try to stop themselves
as the primary instigators.
I'm always simply amazed at how many UPS drivers seem no better,
nationwide. They must be in the OTR race for rollovers and landing in
medians/ditches by an order of magnitude or more compared the rest of
the national carrier brands...
We had just a couple of inches Monday night that left a fairly slick
surface on the blacktop bypass around town Tuesday. I'd run to town for
the mail after shoveling the walks off and doing chores and was about
plowed over by an oversize load guy while in the turn lane to make the
turn on our road waiting for oncoming. I was getting ready to head on
straight and hit the ditch behind the other guy when he did finally
manage to straighten it out but wasn't but a few lengths behind me when
he did...again, nothing but idiocy of trying to drive 50 in 30 mph
conditions. There were enough tracks that even his load rig started
swinging from one to another and when he tried to shut 'er down he did
it too quickly...very easy to see what was happening; not much of
anywhere to go w/ the other one coming over the hill from the south.
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