I am interested in making tapered legs, and then fluting them. My Grizzly
lathe has stops that will allow me to flute them, but I don't know how to do
it? Is there a router jig out there for this purpose?
OK, so that's half your jig made then.
The other half of it is usually a U shaped "gutter"; three strips of
ply or MDF to make a box that's rather bigger than you workpiece. You
sit it on the bench or lathe bed and it gives you two guide surfaces a
little higher than the workpiece. On these, you run a router (or even
a hand scratch stock).
The gutter jig needs to be parallel to the lathe axis and spaced so
the router is running exactly on the centre. I've seen this done with
a custom router base with its own fixed fence - very quick to set up.
If your legs are tapered, or if you want tapered reeding, make the top
of the gutter slope up or downwards to match.
If you're doing this for production, you can use a scrap lathe bed to
house the jig, rather than your turning lathe.
IMHO, you can't cut V shaped reeds on a router. They always have a
flat at the tip, and it just screams "routed" at me. Even if you
removed the wood with a router, sort out a V-pointed scratch stock to
tidy up that tip.
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods
On 09 Nov 2003, Andy Dingley spake unto rec.woodworking:
Once I finish making the cupboard doors and drawers for The
Interminable Bathroom Renovation Project, I am going to make a mahogany
two-drawer end table with reeded legs. I bought two of these:
and though I haven't had a chance to experiment yet, the points certainly
look sufficiently sharp to do a decent job. I'll post some pics when I get
up and running on the project.
It is easy to make one. Use MDF or quality scrap ply to make a
carriage that fits over the rails of your lathe. I use this method to
make sliding dovetail joints in a pedestal table base to attach the
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