I'm working on a bookcase design and the client want flutes running
down the leg similar to this:
How would you rout these flutes? The posts will be 41" long and 1.75"
I'm thinking of using handheld router with edge guide and a series of
shims for the spacings. Core box bit??
a core box bit, but that could have simply been that I saw in it what I
wanted to see (darn bifocals anyway!). The technical info pages list
core box, v-groove, straight bits, and others as "additional accessories
you might be interested in", so I *assume* you could pretty much use the
bit of your choice.
I'm not sure if it's a core box or a v-groove due to the poor quality
of the picture. I think I might try both in scrap and see which looks
more appealing to the client.
Here are Core-Box bits from Rockler: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2121
And I agree, the jig looks simple enough to build.
When I think "flutes" I think raduis, which is what those core box bits are.
Although that pics appears to be either very tiny flutes or just giving
the appearance of columns.
They could be saw blade curfs, which would be a lot easier.
You didn't say if you had a router table.
When I made the fluted trim for these...
...I mounted by router underneath a melamine worktable I made for the
I screwed down long scraps to the table as a fence, and the same with
homemade fetherboards. It made it real easy to accurately run 8' lengths
through the router.
Not sure I would've done that for just fluting, but since I made all
that trim, custom, I used the router *a lot* on that project.
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
OTOMH, no--I'm pretty sure I've seen 5-flute/bead multi-bits as well as
3 but couldn't say if were Amana/Whiteside/CMT/somebody-else at the moment.
On making, my preferred way is to set fence to center first cut (which
is relatively simply done by using test piece and reversing ends 'til
get no mismatch from either direction). Then, cut all pieces at that
setting and adjust fence back next step distance (again, checking on
your test piece). Then, cut the two next closest to center, one from
each direction. That's a 3-flute/bead; repeat once for each additional
pair. Rarely if ever have I seen more than five on anything but a very
large architectural moulding.
As for the question raised earlier, for a furniture piece as your sample
I'd tend to prefer round fluting as opposed to veining; for one thing it
doesn't collect dust as badly or is more easily cleaned w/o the sharp
BTW, as somebody else noted w/ shims--if use a piece of shim stock that
thickness in the centering phase, simply removing it provides the proper
indexing for the next pass. Again, repeat as needed.
Only hiccup thing I've experienced that way is that must be sure
whatever the shim material is is straight and firmly against the fence
as well as each piece is identical thickness if doing, say, 5 flutes so
need two pieces. In general, that's only an issue for very small flutes
where need <1/4" spacing, maybe as larger flues mean wider spacing which
provides shim stock that's rigid-enough on its own.
Nice! I like this. It didn't dawn on me to do it from both sides.
How quickly they forget.<G>
The old center the groove trick.
How many times has Norm used the end or end trick to center a groove
using a T/S when building panel doors?
I think he meant the flipping to be used so that only two spacers (for
five flutes) would be needed instead of four - not used as a centering
technique. The two outside flutes get made from the first pass, then
flipping gets the opposite flute just by flipping the board.
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