Flutes in a post

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Hey gang,
I'm working on a bookcase design and the client want flutes running down the leg similar to this:
http://www.garagewoodworks.com/pictures/bookcase.jpg
How would you rout these flutes? The posts will be 41" long and 1.75" wide.
I'm thinking of using handheld router with edge guide and a series of shims for the spacings. Core box bit??
Any ideas?
Thanks
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GarageWoodworks wrote:

FWIW - Rockler has a jig for flutes -
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page !730&filter=flutes
Matt
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Thanks Matt, I had not seen this jig before. Good tip.
Do the grooves look like a core box bit? It's a crummy picture. They could be V-groove.
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GarageWoodworks wrote:

a core box bit, but that could have simply been that I saw in it what I wanted to see (darn bifocals anyway!). The technical info pages list core box, v-groove, straight bits, and others as "additional accessories you might be interested in", so I *assume* you could pretty much use the bit of your choice.
Matt
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GarageWoodworks wrote:

Save yourself 70 bucks and make that jig... it's pretty simple.
Do you have a table?
I just googled "core box bit" and saw a bunch of radius bits. Is that all it is?
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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Mike,
I'm not sure if it's a core box or a v-groove due to the poor quality of the picture. I think I might try both in scrap and see which looks more appealing to the client.
Here are Core-Box bits from Rockler: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2121
And I agree, the jig looks simple enough to build.
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GarageWoodworks wrote:

When I think "flutes" I think raduis, which is what those core box bits are.
Although that pics appears to be either very tiny flutes or just giving the appearance of columns. They could be saw blade curfs, which would be a lot easier.
You didn't say if you had a router table.
When I made the fluted trim for these...
http://www.mikedrums.com/bookcases.jpg
...I mounted by router underneath a melamine worktable I made for the project build. I screwed down long scraps to the table as a fence, and the same with homemade fetherboards. It made it real easy to accurately run 8' lengths through the router.
Not sure I would've done that for just fluting, but since I made all that trim, custom, I used the router *a lot* on that project.
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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Sorry. Yes, I have a router table.

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GarageWoodworks wrote:

I think it's easier to control the cuts with a table.
--

-MIKE-

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My router table fence will flex sometimes (I need to work on a new one). I think I might feel more comfortable hand held on this.

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GarageWoodworks wrote: ...

Doable; been there done it that way.
Or you could bit the bullet and buy one of the mult-flute bits; there are many choices of size/number of flutes.
--
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I've only come across ones with three flutes. Do you you know of a link to one with more?
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GarageWoodworks wrote: ...

OTOMH, no--I'm pretty sure I've seen 5-flute/bead multi-bits as well as 3 but couldn't say if were Amana/Whiteside/CMT/somebody-else at the moment.
On making, my preferred way is to set fence to center first cut (which is relatively simply done by using test piece and reversing ends 'til get no mismatch from either direction). Then, cut all pieces at that setting and adjust fence back next step distance (again, checking on your test piece). Then, cut the two next closest to center, one from each direction. That's a 3-flute/bead; repeat once for each additional pair. Rarely if ever have I seen more than five on anything but a very large architectural moulding.
As for the question raised earlier, for a furniture piece as your sample I'd tend to prefer round fluting as opposed to veining; for one thing it doesn't collect dust as badly or is more easily cleaned w/o the sharp corner.
--
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Nice! I like this. It didn't dawn on me to do it from both sides. <slaps forehead>

Another good tip. Thanks!

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GarageWoodworks wrote: ...

BTW, as somebody else noted w/ shims--if use a piece of shim stock that thickness in the centering phase, simply removing it provides the proper indexing for the next pass. Again, repeat as needed.
Only hiccup thing I've experienced that way is that must be sure whatever the shim material is is straight and firmly against the fence as well as each piece is identical thickness if doing, say, 5 flutes so need two pieces. In general, that's only an issue for very small flutes where need <1/4" spacing, maybe as larger flues mean wider spacing which provides shim stock that's rigid-enough on its own.
--
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GarageWoodworks wrote:
------------------------------------------ Nice! I like this. It didn't dawn on me to do it from both sides. <slaps forehead> ------------------------------------------
How quickly they forget.<G>
The old center the groove trick.
How many times has Norm used the end or end trick to center a groove using a T/S when building panel doors?
Lew
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Tons. <walks away in shame, mumbling to self>
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I think he meant the flipping to be used so that only two spacers (for five flutes) would be needed instead of four - not used as a centering technique. The two outside flutes get made from the first pass, then flipping gets the opposite flute just by flipping the board.
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GarageWoodworks wrote:

I'd likely do it on the router table with a core box bit and a featherboard to keep it tight against the fence. A jig for handheld wouldn't be all that hard to cobble up though.
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Do you own a lathe?
jc
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