Flutes continued

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Ok, I tried making a few stopped flutes which terminate with a taper using a wedge as discussed in a previous thread. (Suggested by SonomaProducts)
Here is the result:
http://www.garagewoodworks.com/shop_talk.php
Came out ok. You can definitely see where the taper begins in the flute (not a completely smooth transition). This can probably be fixed with a piece of sandpaper or just leaving it alone.
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wrote:

nice job. rather than sand, i'd practice a few more, and try to hit it perfectly. sxomehow sanding makes it worse (when I do it)
shelly
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On Nov 21, 5:05 pm, snipped-for-privacy@stny.rr.com wrote:

I have practiced about a dozen times now and always get the same result. I even tried waxing the lip of the wedge and it doesn't help. I appreciate your input.
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IMHO the stopped end looks better with out the taper. And you don't have the shutter as the router changes direction.
I have an example on a.b.p.w.
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I appreciate your candor Leon. It is difficult to control/prevent the shutter. As the base fist hits the wedge (which is knife sharp) it stops and then climbs. This is mirrored in the flute. You can see a tiny 'step' in the bottom of the flute before it transitions to the climb up. I was able to make the step less noticeable with sandpaper by curling it into a radius that complements the flute. Not sure what I will do yet. The neander method of using a gauge might look nicer, but I dont own any gauges. :^|
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wrote:
I appreciate your candor Leon. It is difficult to control/prevent the shutter. As the base fist hits the wedge (which is knife sharp) it stops and then climbs. This is mirrored in the flute. You can see a tiny 'step' in the bottom of the flute before it transitions to the climb up. I was able to make the step less noticeable with sandpaper by curling it into a radius that complements the flute. Not sure what I will do yet. The neander method of using a gauge might look nicer, but I dont own any gauges. :^|
To correct the problem, try doing it in reverse, start with the bit up high and let it ease down into the line as you push it. Gravity will not be working against you and there should be less shutter.
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Something you might also try. If the router is on an auxilary base, bevel the leading edge that meets the wedge to the same angle so that the base does not have as abrupt of an edge to catch.
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Heh. Nice idea! I will try this.
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Hey. I think the best solution might be to combine yours and Morris's idea. Climb down the radiused wedge!!!
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GarageWoodworks wrote:

Another trick you might try is to lay a strip of thin packaging tape across the transition between wedge and stock (the radiusing is only needed right at the transition point).
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
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Have you tried it the other way ? Start from the taper and work into the flute .
Jim

I appreciate your candor Leon. It is difficult to control/prevent the shutter. As the base fist hits the wedge (which is knife sharp) it stops and then climbs. This is mirrored in the flute. You can see a tiny 'step' in the bottom of the flute before it transitions to the climb up. I was able to make the step less noticeable with sandpaper by curling it into a radius that complements the flute. Not sure what I will do yet. The neander method of using a gauge might look nicer, but I dont own any gauges. :^|
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Leon wrote:

Nah, you're wrong; taper looks better. IMO of course. :-)
--
"Our beer goes through thousands of quality Czechs every day."
(From a Shiner Bock billboard I saw in Austin some years ago)
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GarageWoodworks wrote:

I think the source of the problem is the abrupt transition between the flat surface and the wedge. A three-fluted bit /might/ (or might not) help with the slight side "dwell" marks at the transition.
If I were trying to do this on the CNC, I think I'd radius the transition rather than do it as two straight-line movements.
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
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Hmmm. I'm not sure at the moment how to make a wedge with a radius, but I'm sure it can be done. I need to think this one over. Even though the wedge is knife sharp, the router base still stops when it hits then I lift and climb. At the transition point in the flute it almost makes a step. It's as if any edge in the wedge is magnified in the flute. I need to think about this one. Thanks Morris!

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wrote:

I'll radius the wedge with at the spindle sander.
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On Sat, 21 Nov 2009 15:13:50 -0800 (PST), the infamous GarageWoodworks

For a quick radius, round it on your 1" belt sander with the backstop (fence?) removed. Then sharpen the tip of the wedge down to a micron, Brian. Voila! No transition marks.
P.S: If the wedge is thick/tall enough, there is no need for a radius as the bit will be clear of the work before it gets to the top.
-- We have too many high sounding words, and too few actions that correspond with them. -- Abigail Adams, letter to John Adams, 1774
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wrote:

How about sanding the edge of the plastic base plate on the router itself to make the transition smoother whether going up or down.
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Not a bad idea. I think this is what Leon suggested above. In the process of making more practice cuts, I found that with the radius'ed wedge and a feathered edge on the wedge works nicely. Coming down the wedge seems to be the best approach.
Interesting note, that in discussing the tapered stopped flutes with the client, he wanted tapered stopped flutes on both ends of the flute (Uggghhhh) I would need a ramp at both ends (go down and then go up a ramp). Fortunately, I talked him out of it.
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wrote:

Ask him if he would like some nice decorative burn marks. LOL.
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Interesting note, that in discussing the tapered stopped flutes with the client, he wanted tapered stopped flutes on both ends of the flute (Uggghhhh) I would need a ramp at both ends (go down and then go up a ramp). Fortunately, I talked him out of it.
No kidding. Some times you just have to put your foot down, for you sake. LOL
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