Ok, I tried making a few stopped flutes which terminate with a taper using a wedge as discussed in a previous thread. (Suggested by SonomaProducts)
Here is the result:
nice job. rather than sand, i'd practice a few more, and try to hit it perfectly. sxomehow sanding makes it worse (when I do it)
shelly
IMHO the stopped end looks better with out the taper. And you don't have the shutter as the router changes direction.
I have an example on a.b.p.w.
I appreciate your candor Leon. It is difficult to control/prevent the shutter. As the base fist hits the wedge (which is knife sharp) it stops and then climbs. This is mirrored in the flute. You can see a tiny 'step' in the bottom of the flute before it transitions to the climb up. I was able to make the step less noticeable with sandpaper by curling it into a radius that complements the flute. Not sure what I will do yet. The neander method of using a gauge might look nicer, but I dont own any gauges. :^|
I have practiced about a dozen times now and always get the same result. I even tried waxing the lip of the wedge and it doesn't help. I appreciate your input.
I think the source of the problem is the abrupt transition between the flat surface and the wedge. A three-fluted bit /might/ (or might not) help with the slight side "dwell" marks at the transition.
If I were trying to do this on the CNC, I think I'd radius the transition rather than do it as two straight-line movements.
Hmmm. I'm not sure at the moment how to make a wedge with a radius, but I'm sure it can be done. I need to think this one over. Even though the wedge is knife sharp, the router base still stops when it hits then I lift and climb. At the transition point in the flute it almost makes a step. It's as if any edge in the wedge is magnified in the flute. I need to think about this one. Thanks Morris!
I appreciate your candor Leon. It is difficult to control/prevent the shutter. As the base fist hits the wedge (which is knife sharp) it stops and then climbs. This is mirrored in the flute. You can see a tiny 'step' in the bottom of the flute before it transitions to the climb up. I was able to make the step less noticeable with sandpaper by curling it into a radius that complements the flute. Not sure what I will do yet. The neander method of using a gauge might look nicer, but I dont own any gauges. :^|
To correct the problem, try doing it in reverse, start with the bit up high and let it ease down into the line as you push it. Gravity will not be working against you and there should be less shutter.
Something you might also try. If the router is on an auxilary base, bevel the leading edge that meets the wedge to the same angle so that the base does not have as abrupt of an edge to catch.
and the end result is better. It is a much natural climb and the base ouf the router doesnt slam to a hult when it hits the wedge.
Check out the result here:(under reply)
Thanks again!
Heh. Nice idea! I will try this.
Hey. I think the best solution might be to combine yours and Morris's idea. Climb down the radiused wedge!!!
Another trick you might try is to lay a strip of thin packaging tape across the transition between wedge and stock (the radiusing is only needed right at the transition point).
Hmm, I don't recall having these problems but it has been a while since I used this detail. I just did my own fireplace and would have liked to do it but was in a bit of a hurry with other pending projects so I just did standarad stops.
I do recall that I usually used a very large add-on base on the router to add more heft to the router so maybe the inertia overcame the stall at lift. I think beveling the front edge of the base and using a radiused ramp will both be added to my repitoire.
Really nice work. Such a small little difference but it will please your eye forever; just like my round ended flutes on my firplace bug me every day... :-(
As the router starts to climb the ramp, it is only supported at two points due to the round base plate. Using a square baseplate will make transitions smoother.
Yes. I noticed this problem. My router PC plunge is round on one side and flat on the other. Initially I was climbing with the round side and it had a tendency to wobble as you stated. I flipped my fence to the other side of the router and climb with the flat side. Much easier this way. Good tip.
------------------------------------------- Yes. I noticed this problem. My router PC plunge is round on one side and flat on the other. Initially I was climbing with the round side and it had a tendency to wobble as you stated. I flipped my fence to the other side of the router and climb with the flat side. Much easier this way. Good tip.
-------------------------------------------
Think of a flute as a specialized version of a mortice.
You cut a mortice with a plunge router using a home made morticing jig that clamps to the workpiece.
You can use the same concept to cut a curved flute.
Build a jig that attaches to the router with side runners that capture the stock thus preventing router rotation, but slide relative to the workpiece.
These runners can then also follow a guide that contains the required curve to to provide required curved runout and are clamped to the work piece like a pair of vise jaws.
The only thing left is to provide a means to index the router for multiple flutes which requires the router to move cross wise to the jig.
Lew
That's a neat idea. Have you made this jig?
On Sat, 21 Nov 2009 15:13:50 -0800 (PST), the infamous GarageWoodworks scrawled the following:
For a quick radius, round it on your 1" belt sander with the backstop (fence?) removed. Then sharpen the tip of the wedge down to a micron, Brian. Voila! No transition marks.
P.S: If the wedge is thick/tall enough, there is no need for a radius as the bit will be clear of the work before it gets to the top.
-- We have too many high sounding words, and too few actions that correspond with them. -- Abigail Adams, letter to John Adams, 1774
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.