Does kind of suck. Do your spring cleaning and the options are to store
it for several weeks or rent a dumpster.
And how is it the old guy who used to ride on the back of the truck was
able to lift so much more than the hydraulic arm anyway?
When we lived in NY, that's the way it was. When we moved, I filled a
couple of dumpsters with crap I had squirreled away, around the house.
VT was better, at least there was a place to get rid of the stuff.
Expensive, but at least there was a "dump". Now I do the "cut it up
and hide it in the garbage over several weeks" trick.
It's not that so much as volume (route distance) and tipping weight
Any of the multi-function tools are perfect for cutting clearance on the
door frame/jamb. Simply lay a piece of the intended new flooring
material next to the frame/jamb and use as a guide to cut with a saw
tool - perfect clearance. If you don't want the tool to mar the new
flooring material, lay it upside down so the back takes any damage.
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the
gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery"
I am not expecting telegraphing either if I use sheet viynl again as
it came that way and there was no telegraphing over the 20 years.
I've never installed sheet vinyl, only other types of flooring, and so
was considering vinyl planks for DiY ability and cost savings.
Can't plane the bottom of metal doors and I wouldn't want to try.
I don't want to try and raise the doors either.
If the flooring goes too high, I will also have issues with the under
cabinet drawers and storage spaces, which would all require
modification to continue to be useful.
I've seen different types of vinyl planking. One is more like a peel
and stick, of which I am leery. Two is a solid type that has an
attached underlayment. I'm researching both for durability, warranty,
price and ease of self-installment.
One of the floating HDF/Laminates with the recommended underlayment will
be just fine. That'll typically be like 8 mm thickness for the flooring
and another 2mm for the underlayment for 10 mm (just over 3/8") total
You could _probably_ get by with simply a layer of heavy paper if this
is above grade with finished floor underneath rather than bare crawl
space so there's really no moisture issue but as Leon says,
"manufacturer rulez" is the real answer.
I'm reminded of the time my Dad put down sheet vinyl on a plank floor
above a crawlspace in a house built in the '20s. First time the wind
came up that vinyl _flew_.
For some reason the concept of "underlayment" was offensive to him.
When we sold the place after he died the flying vinyl was still there.
That is thinner than I have seen as a total height.
Do you know which one? Brand??
Underneath of house is a heavy Polyethylene underbelly secured to
steel girders, above which is heavy insulation. It has a space to
crawl underneath the house but you can't reach much without removing
all of that poly and insulation. There are only secured spots where
pipes and wires come through for water, electric, etc.
I am still searching for a product, preferably DiY.
The above was the spec's from one of the multitude of lower-priced
products from Lumber Liquidators web site....I'd be pretty certain there
must be hundreds of very similar dimensions available. Which one it
was, specifically, I don't recall, but was one of the "clickable"
floating (not glued/stapled) styles.
Sounds as though should work just find for the application altho you'd
still want to double-check manufacturer's info for installation
guidelines and especially proscribed uses. Most are ok above grade;
it's below grade and/or directly on concrete that is the primary
You don't give a location so can't judge what the climatology might be
as far as wetness factor...out here SW KS High Plains I'd have no
concern; back in coastal VA, say, well, would guess would want to not
skip the moisture barrier underlay...
OK, the link was still in the remembered history...
was the one I just picked at more or less random...
Just about any product from Lumber Liquidators will be Chinese.
Haro is supposed to be pretty good - German.
KronoSwiss is supposed to be pretty good too. The stuff I installed
ended up being Chinese - about the only thing I can say for it was the
price was low and it was 14mm thick. It was not easy to install, and
chips easily - - - No idea what the brand was - it was sold bu a
discout flooring store locally - more or less a Lumber Liquidators
On 07/14/2015 4:23 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I make (and made) no recommendations on a specific product other than
point to the _type_ of product OP seemed to be looking for---he can
choose what he wants at a price point he's comfortable with from any
vendor he chooses...
Click Laminate flooring is available from 6mm to 15mm thick, with
quality from abyssmal to pretty darn good in pretty well any
thickness. Price is all over the map, and sadly just because you pay
more doesn't make one better than another. The european and north
american broduct are GENERALLY better than the Chinese product (as in
just about anything) There again, just because it has a european name,
and the head office is in Sweden or wherever, does't mean the product
isn't from China!!!
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