Flooring Q

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snipped-for-privacy@ghostmail.cc says...

Does kind of suck. Do your spring cleaning and the options are to store it for several weeks or rent a dumpster.
And how is it the old guy who used to ride on the back of the truck was able to lift so much more than the hydraulic arm anyway?
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On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 00:01:20 -0400, "J. Clarke"

When we lived in NY, that's the way it was. When we moved, I filled a couple of dumpsters with crap I had squirreled away, around the house. VT was better, at least there was a place to get rid of the stuff. Expensive, but at least there was a "dump". Now I do the "cut it up and hide it in the garbage over several weeks" trick.

It's not that so much as volume (route distance) and tipping weight ($$).
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On 07/13/2015 09:46 AM, Casper wrote:

Any of the multi-function tools are perfect for cutting clearance on the door frame/jamb. Simply lay a piece of the intended new flooring material next to the frame/jamb and use as a guide to cut with a saw tool - perfect clearance. If you don't want the tool to mar the new flooring material, lay it upside down so the back takes any damage.
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I am not expecting telegraphing either if I use sheet viynl again as it came that way and there was no telegraphing over the 20 years. I've never installed sheet vinyl, only other types of flooring, and so was considering vinyl planks for DiY ability and cost savings.
Can't plane the bottom of metal doors and I wouldn't want to try. I don't want to try and raise the doors either.
If the flooring goes too high, I will also have issues with the under cabinet drawers and storage spaces, which would all require modification to continue to be useful.
I've seen different types of vinyl planking. One is more like a peel and stick, of which I am leery. Two is a solid type that has an attached underlayment. I'm researching both for durability, warranty, price and ease of self-installment.
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On 7/13/2015 11:46 AM, Casper wrote:

Then you should be set.

This has absolutely nothing to do with the product you said you were think about using, vinyl plank flooring.

There are simple ways with dealing with door jams, that is a common item that has to be addressed with new floors.

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On 07/11/2015 8:42 PM, Casper wrote:

One of the floating HDF/Laminates with the recommended underlayment will be just fine. That'll typically be like 8 mm thickness for the flooring and another 2mm for the underlayment for 10 mm (just over 3/8") total installed thickness.
You could _probably_ get by with simply a layer of heavy paper if this is above grade with finished floor underneath rather than bare crawl space so there's really no moisture issue but as Leon says, "manufacturer rulez" is the real answer.
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I'm reminded of the time my Dad put down sheet vinyl on a plank floor above a crawlspace in a house built in the '20s. First time the wind came up that vinyl _flew_.
For some reason the concept of "underlayment" was offensive to him. When we sold the place after he died the flying vinyl was still there.
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That is thinner than I have seen as a total height. Do you know which one? Brand??

Underneath of house is a heavy Polyethylene underbelly secured to steel girders, above which is heavy insulation. It has a space to crawl underneath the house but you can't reach much without removing all of that poly and insulation. There are only secured spots where pipes and wires come through for water, electric, etc.
I am still searching for a product, preferably DiY.
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On 07/14/2015 1:02 PM, Casper wrote:

The above was the spec's from one of the multitude of lower-priced products from Lumber Liquidators web site....I'd be pretty certain there must be hundreds of very similar dimensions available. Which one it was, specifically, I don't recall, but was one of the "clickable" floating (not glued/stapled) styles.
Sounds as though should work just find for the application altho you'd still want to double-check manufacturer's info for installation guidelines and especially proscribed uses. Most are ok above grade; it's below grade and/or directly on concrete that is the primary moisture issue.
You don't give a location so can't judge what the climatology might be as far as wetness factor...out here SW KS High Plains I'd have no concern; back in coastal VA, say, well, would guess would want to not skip the moisture barrier underlay...
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On 07/14/2015 1:46 PM, dpb wrote:

OK, the link was still in the remembered history...
<http://www.lumberliquidators.com/ll/c/Bristol-County-Cherry-Laminate-Major-Brand-8BRC/10026409 was the one I just picked at more or less random...
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Haro is supposed to be pretty good - German. KronoSwiss is supposed to be pretty good too. The stuff I installed ended up being Chinese - about the only thing I can say for it was the price was low and it was 14mm thick. It was not easy to install, and chips easily - - - No idea what the brand was - it was sold bu a discout flooring store locally - more or less a Lumber Liquidators clone.
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On 07/14/2015 4:23 PM, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote: ...

I make (and made) no recommendations on a specific product other than point to the _type_ of product OP seemed to be looking for---he can choose what he wants at a price point he's comfortable with from any vendor he chooses...
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Click Laminate flooring is available from 6mm to 15mm thick, with quality from abyssmal to pretty darn good in pretty well any thickness. Price is all over the map, and sadly just because you pay more doesn't make one better than another. The european and north american broduct are GENERALLY better than the Chinese product (as in just about anything) There again, just because it has a european name, and the head office is in Sweden or wherever, does't mean the product isn't from China!!!
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