Fixing shellac orangepeel?

I sanded the bad parts down and it is actually looking better. I can't seem to get it perfectly smooth, but it is probably good enough for what I'm doing. I think I may be using too much pressure, because the parts I wiped real lightly seem to look pretty good, but the parts that I was rubbing it on sort of hard are where the problems are.

I think it is going to work this time, but I appreciate the offer. A bit more oil seems to be a part of the solution as well. Either way I'm going to finish this thing up start of the week.

Tim Douglass

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Tim Douglass
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My last attempt with shellac was with a brush - that disaster made this one look pretty good. It still hasn't really been fixed, but it looks fine from a couple feet away and anyone who looks closer is going to deserve to see what they see. The whole plan with padding was that it was supposed to eliminate the brush marks so I wouldn't have to sand all the time. No brush marks, but I have a lot of pad marks, which are shallower and easier to sand out...

Tim Douglass

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Tim Douglass

I'm a novice with shellac, but the few times I have tried it I've used a cheap brush with some Zinser #3 orange right out of the can. Never had a problem with brush marks. The only uneven-ness I've seen was on an antique oak top desk where the grain of the wood stood out.

This leads me to wonder if maybe you have some shellac that has gone bad?

-sam

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sam

When applying shellac I apply 3-5 coats and then lightly block sand to level the surface using either 220 or 400 grit (depending on how bad I screwed up). I'll then apply additional coats leveling the surface by block sanding at approx. every third coat. After applying the final coat I use a felt block to rub out the finish with "FF" pumice and mineral oil followed by "FFFF" pumice. If a higher sheen is desired I'll continue using rubbing the finish out rottenstone.

-- Jack Novak Buffalo, NY - USA (Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)

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Nova

Tim Douglass wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

I'm getting here late, Tim, but I've been where you seem to be, with the shellac thing.

Things I've found:

  • About a 1.5 to 2 lb cut seems to work best for me. Heavier = bad. Lighter, I haven't learned to control it well, except for early coats.

  • I make sure _not_ to drip anything on the surface, if I can help it.

  • Fiddling with the surface, or 'brushing back', such as I would do to get an even surface with an enamel paint, is a bad thing.

  • Once the surface starts to 'tack', I have to leave it alone, no matter what my inner child is screaming. Patience is not hereditary in my gene pool, evidently.

  • this last bit is more important with objects which are small, and, by their nature, invite handling and close inspection. The inside surfaces of a shop cabinet are a different story. As is a workbench which will actually see work.

  • Most importantly, 'sanding' should be most properly described as 'leveling', at least in my lexicon. 400-600 grit works best for me, the goal being to identify where the problems might be.

Good luck. Take and post pictures.

Patriarch

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Patriarch

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nospambob

I'm OK there. By my figuring I'm using a 1 1/2 lb cut.

I learned that finally.

This seems to be a big thing. It seems like I pretty much get one whack at it and then need to leave it alone.

I have that patience problem myself.

Leveling seems to be what is needed. I have gathered from people in here that you pretty much can expect to have to sand/polish to get that perfectly flat surface. I am more conditioned to varnishes where you can brush them on and they will level while they dry. Shellac definitely doesn't do that.

Depending on how it comes out the pictures may be from close or far away.

Tim Douglass

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Tim Douglass

I think this is my problem. I'm expecting the wiped surface to be smooth and shiny when you actually have to sand and polish to get that look.

Where do you find felt blocks for rubbing out. I'm sure they're available, but I don't consciously recall seeing them for sale either in a store or catalog.

Tim Douglass

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Tim Douglass

I've seen 'em at Rockler. I just stick a rectangle of felt between sandpaper and sanding block.

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Australopithecus scobis

The last one was purchase at Rockler:

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Novak Buffalo, NY - USA (Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)

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Nova

Tim Douglass wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

The shellac I bought most recently included a quart of Jeff Jewitt's liquid

5 lb cut, extra pale, German refined product. Not only is it excellent bug spit, it goes from shipped product to ready-to-pad in about as long as it takes to measure the two liquids and shake. Highly recommended.

I'm going to try some dipping for a toys-for-kids project the woodworking club is getting ready to run. There are some neat designs for early years projects that can be done in short production run processes. The sort of batch processes that a woodworker can do between dinner and the late news. If the simple finishing process can be dye stain by dipping, dry, and shellac coating by dipping and drying, that would keep it simple and 'food safe'. Otherwise, Critter-spraying.

Love these projects!

Patriarch

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Patriarch

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nospambob

Snippage of GOOD HELP

It sure did. I had an emergency side job to do, so I didn't even touch the blanket chest until last night. Just like you said, wet sand with

1k grit, rather vigorous rub-down with burlap (I didn't have any compound) and 2 coats of wax. The top looks like a freakin mirror. Admittedly, it looks a little plastic, but I'm so proud of being able to make it look that way, I think I'll leave it.

Armed with my new spraygun knowledge, I plan to do some sprayin' on some scrap soon to improve my technique. To quote the old adage, "How do you get to your own show on PBS?"

"Practice."

Anyhow, thanks a blanket chest full, Mike.

-Phil Crow

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phildcrowNOSPAM

I love it when a plan comes together. Great job Phil.

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Mike Marlow

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