Fixing Air Compressor Screwup

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How's your head?? BG P D Q
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No progress to speak of with regards to the busted compressor. I got one of the screw-in type extractors, but haven't had the time to try it out yet.
I'm writing in though to post a little bit of a gloat! I was at a local pharmacy to get a drink where I noticed a small air compressor looking like it might be in the queue for the dumpster, laying on its side behind the counter.
I asked about it, and they said that it was broken and they had replaced it, but that they hadn't gotten directions from above about what to do with the old one. I told them that I had room in my car for it, if they wanted to avoid the task of carrying it to the dumpster. They took my number and asked me to wait for a call or come back later, so they could have a chance to talk to their management.
So I went back on Friday and came home with a Gast D300X air compressor. It was built in 1999, but hey, I'm not complaining.
Information here: http://www.gastmfg.com/pdf/tankunits/2Gallon-tanksyst.pdf
I can't find any vendors that sell this model online, but Grainger has just the compressor part for over $400, so I think I did OK. :-)
Is there any other woodworking potential for this little guy, like running a spray gun or something? I'd hate to waste its potential on something as basic as running nail guns.
-Nathan
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wrote:

With a 2gal tank and 1.5 CFM or less at 30 to 50 psi, I'm afraid you'd have a pretty low duty cycle running a conventional spray gun. Maybe OK for small batch spraying.
Tom Veatch Wichita, KS USA
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nhurst wrote:

Given the small size, you MIGHT be able to run a sprayer for model airplanes, otherwise, it's probably nail gun duty time.
Lew
Lew
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Some of the documentation claims that the motor is rated for continuous duty. Does that mean I could add another, larger tank and get some use out of it?
-Nathan
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"nhurst" wrote:

continuous duty. Does that mean I could add another, larger tank and get some use out of it?
Not really.
All you would accomplish is that it would take longer to come up to system pressure and as long as you consumed less than you generated, you could operate continuously.
If you consume more than you generate, you will be able to operate longer before having to stop and wait to catch up, but you still have to wait.
There ain't no free lunch.
If it were mine, I'd plug it in, if it worked, great.
If it doesn't, how fast can you get to the dumpster?
Lew
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Oh it works, I was just pondering what future use it might have in my shop.
I realized last night that one good use for it might be to some of those vacuum clamps. I bet it would work really well for that. Otherwise, I'll stick it out at the project house on the old family property so we don't have to lug the big one out there when we get a round toit. :-)
-Nathan
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Tom Veatch wrote:

Sounds about perfect for an airbrush though.
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I have somewhere between 1/8" and 1/4" of metal, I think, between the new drain hole and the existing threads. I have a customer service ticket in with Bostitch to see if they can inform me as to how those things are attached. If I can get that information, and get the other one off, I'll be able to use that to work on the mangled one.
Thank you for your excellent post.
As to the uh, nipple extractor, is there a recommended one for this kind of thing? Is the screw in one better than the square one? Good lord, I can only imagine the innuendo potential when you're talking about pound in, screw in, and ridgid pipe extractors. Yeesh. :-)
Thanks yall.
-Nathan
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If I understand correctly there is a BRASS remnant of your drain valve you want to remove? If it is brass, you might take the unit to a welding shop and just have them melt the brass out of the threads, which I assume are probably steel or a welded on steel insert. Even if the insert was brazed on the tank, just have the welding shop braze it back on after melting the drain valve. regards, Joe.
On Tue, 7 Apr 2009 05:59:35 -0700 (PDT), N Hurst

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