So I am going to try this on a piece of walnut. On the bottle it says to dilute 50/50 with mineral spirits. I have paint thinner, and denatured alcohol. Will either of these be ok to use, or do I need to get some mineral spirits? Thanks.
Paint thinner is mineral spirits, mineral spirits is not paint thinner.
Paint thinner is mineral spirits with an ingredient to slow evaporation.
If you use paint thinner cure time might be exceptionally long.
If you deviate from the instructions, do not experiment on your project, experiment on scraps.
Ok, thanks. I will get some mineral spirits.
Paul
Also, allow twice as long to dry as indicated on the can if you plan to put any finish over the oil. I learned this the hard way more than once. Undried oil under your finish causes a whole long list of undesirable and unpredictable issues.
Agree with you here but I wonder if you shellac it first....
to put any finish over the oil. I learned this the hard way more than once. Undried oil under your finish causes a whole long list of undesirable and unpredictable issues.
-------------------------------------- Tung oil contains no driers.
Boiled linseed oil is tung oil that contains driers.
Tung oil takes forever to dry.
BLO dries in a day or two.
I don't use straight tung oil for the above reasons.
YMMV
Lew
No, I rarely use a seal coat of any kind. They only thing I would put on raw wood before oil is dye.
What kind/brand dye are you using. I for the first time ever used a General Finishes die stain and I am pretty impressed with the speed of application. Not to mention the penetration I am getting compared to a regular oil stain.
When did they figure out how to make flax grow on a tree?
Yeah I usually use BLO thinned with Mineral Spirits or Turpentine. Linseed oil is from flax but Tung is from some Chinese nuts. Ok insert joke here about tungs and nuts, and BLO, etc.
No, it's not. Linseed oil comes from flax seeds; tung oil comes from the nuts of the tung tree.
Can't say for certain what you get on the west coast, but here in the eastern USA, BLO is still linseed oil with driers, not tung oil of any kind...
...then you won't get the pop from the oil.
I get superb results with Waterlox Satin, which is primarily a tung oil finish with a phenolic component and some metal driers. It's
-weeks- faster than straight tung oil if you're trying to build a handrubbed finish.
-- Knowledge speaks, but wisdom listens. -- Jimi Hendrix
How do you figure that? Linseed oil is is squished out of flax seeds, tung from tung nuts.
Maybe you meant that BLO is raw linseed oil with driers? True. But it can be made without driers too.
Perhaps he was overcome by epoxy fumes.
If so, that's the type which takes forever to finish polymerizing and dry/harden. Ghastly stuff.
-- Knowledge speaks, but wisdom listens. -- Jimi Hendrix
-------------------------------------- "dadiOH" wrote:
------------------------------------ Try your basic brain fart.
Was thinking about "raw" oil, tung or linseed, that takes forever to dry while BLO contains driers which makes it workable and BTW, makes it one of my favorite finishes.
Lew
Re: Rockler's Tung Oil
That is really tung oil.
Be warned that raw oil finishes are slow drying. Tung oil may be faster than the others, but depending on temperature and humidity you are talking a week or two to appear to be dry and two weeks to a month to be really dry. By dry I mean fully cured by reacting with oxygen to polymerize.
By the way, you do know that if you wad your rags up and throw them in the garbage, the reaction of the oil with oxygen can start a fire? I wash my rags out with solvent and then spread them out somewhere to dry.
Squozen nuts.
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.