First time gluing - advice/tips?

Well, I think I'm ready to glue sets of 3 3.5" boards for my intro project to make the sides, top, bottom, and shelf. I think I understand the basics - apply a healthy amount of glue to each adjoining edge (enough glue to where just a bit squeezes out when clamped), clamp about every foot of so, and let dry per mfg specs (preferably overnight, if possible).
Any advice of tips on gluing the butt edges (I've decided to follow the majority of the advice here and pass on the dowels, by the way)?
Thanks
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On scraps suggest try two things, (1) "healthy" amount to see what this quantity is as I'd expect you'll get more than anticipated and (2) try the brads into one edge then cut off leaving a sharp point for aligning the other board. On longish assemblies alternate clamps above and below to avoid cupping from clamp pressure. To help this approach I made a couple of supports to set the glueup on from scrap 3/4" ply with plastic glued to top edge to avoid glue sticking to them.

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I don't know what majority advice you are referring to, but I would definitely use biscuits. Aside from adding strength, you have a much better chance of getting good alignment.
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I would suggest a dry run, try clamping the assembly with no glue; the edges should close perfectly. If they don't, plane them until they do. It is best if the edges meet first at the ends of the boards so that the clamps can bring the middles together. Good luck!

glue
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I don't think it makes too much difference whether or not you use biscuits. I have done it both ways many times and you will be ok either way.
I would definitely "joint" the edges before you glue. Be sure there are no visible spaces between the boards - don't rely on clamping pressure to try to squeeze them together.
Plane the boards to the same thickness to avoid excessive sanding later - don't assume they are the same unless they came from the same long board.
If you are using pipe clamps (which I do), I place wax paper over them where the pipe may contact & stain the wood.
Alternate clamps (top/bottom). For your 3 boards, you prpbably won't need a caul, but it something to keep in mind if you ever do bigger glue-ups.
Good gluing!
Lou
wrote:

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I give up, what is a caul?
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1.. A portion of the amnion, especially when it covers the head of a fetus at birth. Also called pileus.
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The wood working reference is a board used between 2 or more clamps to distribute the lamping force across the width of the panel being glued.

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On Sat, 25 Sep 2004 22:14:29 GMT, "Leon"

Pitcher here:
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00004.asp
Look at "B".
Luigi Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/antifaq.html www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/humour.html
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I do have a few hairlines of space between boards when I hold them up to the sun. Worth waiting another 5 days until I can try jointing them again at class (I'm kind of falling behind, by the way - there are only 3 classes left)?

The pieces are from the same long board. But there still is a little (very slight) thickness variation. I'm hoping not too much that I can't just sand out once glued up.
If one board has a slight bow (maybe 1/16" across 30" of board), could/should I run it through the face through the jointer (these are only 3.5" boards) instead of a planer (don't think I have access to a planer)?

I just found out the hard way about the clamps touching and staining the wood during my dry run. I won't lay the clamps across the wood now. I don't have pipe clamps. All I have are the "quick clamps" that have the squeeze handle.

Not sure how to go about alternating top and bottom. If I have a clamp on bottom, won't the panet "sit" on these bottom clamps? I'm having trouble envisioning how this would work. I get what you're saying conceptually, just not visualizing it. I'm also not seeing how I'll keep the boards flat across if I'm trying to put clamps underneath too. Won't the pieces shift around while I'm switching from working on top and bottom?
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Hi (again) Corey,
At this point, I think you have more information than necessary to glue-up a few boards.
Try it and use whatever hints that seem right for your situation.
Remember to have fun-that will keep you interested.
Lou
wrote:

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: : > I would definitely "joint" the edges before : > you glue. Be sure there are no visible spaces : > between the boards - don't rely on clamping pressure : > to try to squeeze them together. : : I do have a few hairlines of space between boards when I hold them up to the : sun. Worth waiting another 5 days until I can try jointing them again at : class (I'm kind of falling behind, by the way - there are only 3 classes : left)?
You could try my web site - Planing Notes - Rub Jointing for some advice about planing the edges.
Jeff G
--
Jeff Gorman, West Yorkshire, UK
Email: username is amgron
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Visualize a capital T upside down to lay the boards on to clamp. I used 3/4" scrap ply and glued plastic on the top edge to avoid glue adhering to them.

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This isn't necessarily true. In fact, I've read in more than one place (Kelly Mehler comes to mind) that suggests to have just a slight amount of space toward the middle of the boards. When clamped, this creates additional tension at the edges where a glued joint would be more likely to fail. At least that's the theory. Personally, I joint them flat,
todd
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loutent wrote:

I noticed this with my black pipes. This weekend I went out looking for the extra clamps that made up enough to clamp a plant stand together. In my searches I stopped by Rockler and found that they sell zinc pipes that seem less likely to discolor the wood than the black pipes. Sale price was $60 for 4 3/4" pipe clamps with 3' zinc pipes.
http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?&offerings_id 818
Rather interestingly, these cost the same as pony clamps and black pipes from Home Depot, Menards, and Woodcraft. When I searched the wreck for the Rockler clamps, they seemed to be liked just a bit better than the traditional pipe clamps.
Mike
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Is this something other than the plain galvanized pipe from the hardware store?
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If you are using Titebond 2 or 3 don't wipe your hands on your pants.
--
Rumpty

Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
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