Finishing surfaces that won't show?

Context:Plywood built-in bookcases.

I assume I should seal all surfaces in some way, even though the top, bottom, back and one side will never be seen. True? If so, what should I use? If it simply doesn't matter, I'll probably try to use up some cans of whatever is on hand.

Reply to
Greg Guarino
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Shellac.

Reply to
Baron

Dewaxed.

Reply to
Larry Blanchard

My experience is limited and I don't think I've used shellac since the jewelry box I made in the 7th grade. (seriously, 1970) It's hard to remember, and things may have changed. So tell me why I should buy some for the unseen areas, other than to have yet another thing to finish test pieces with.

Reply to
Greg Guarino

uneven migration of moisture causes warping. the rule is to finish all sides of everything, including non-visible areas to prevent that.

Reply to
chaniarts

Well that was my guess when I asked for suggestions in the first place, but I'm asking now why shellac is a good choice as opposed to something else.

Reply to
Greg Guarino

------------------------------------------ Low cost

Dries quickly

Seals surface

Prevents bleed thru.

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

Thank you.

Reply to
Greg Guarino

------------------------------------------ Lew Hodgett wrote:

-----------------------------------------------

"Greg Guar> Thank you.

--------------------------------------------------- SFWIW, I go to the local Harbor Freight and buy 2" chip brushes by the dozen.

They work well for slathering on shellac. (Pick off the bristles that shed).

Cut the dewaxed shellac to 1# with denatured alcohol and apply liberally.

Apply several coats and wait 3-4 weeks before rubbing out as needed.

I'm no finishing genius but it works for me.

Have fun.

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

n some way, even though the top, bottom, back and one side will never be se= en. True? If so, what should I use? If it simply doesn't matter, I'll proba= bly try to use up some cans of whatever is on hand.

FYI, no profesional cabinet shop is finishing unseen faces. Ply won't warp = like solid wood. Really not necessary unless you have some extreme conditio= n backed against a slurry wall or some other severe moisture situation.

Reply to
SonomaProducts.com

Because it seals against moisture vapor better than anything else, although poly comes close. But shellac wipes on with a rag and dries almost instantly. Pick up a can of Zinsser SealCoat and give it a try. Read the fine print - it says it's a 2 pound cut of dewaxed shellac. Get it somewhere with a good turnover - old cans don't dry well if they're over 2 years old.

Reply to
Larry Blanchard

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