Finishing surfaces that won't show?

Context:Plywood built-in bookcases.
I assume I should seal all surfaces in some way, even though the top, bottom, back and one side will never be seen. True? If so, what should I use? If it simply doesn't matter, I'll probably try to use up some cans of whatever is on hand.
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Shellac.
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On Tue, 18 Dec 2012 09:19:29 -0500, Baron wrote:

Dewaxed.
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On 12/18/2012 11:58 AM, Larry Blanchard wrote:

jewelry box I made in the 7th grade. (seriously, 1970) It's hard to remember, and things may have changed. So tell me why I should buy some for the unseen areas, other than to have yet another thing to finish test pieces with.
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On 12/18/2012 11:52 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:

uneven migration of moisture causes warping. the rule is to finish all sides of everything, including non-visible areas to prevent that.
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On 12/18/2012 4:14 PM, chaniarts wrote:

Well that was my guess when I asked for suggestions in the first place, but I'm asking now why shellac is a good choice as opposed to something else.
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"Greg Guarino" wrote:

Low cost
Dries quickly
Seals surface
Prevents bleed thru.
Lew
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On 12/18/2012 5:00 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:

Thank you.
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"Greg Guarino" wrote:

Lew Hodgett wrote:

"Greg Guarino" wrote:

SFWIW, I go to the local Harbor Freight and buy 2" chip brushes by the dozen.
They work well for slathering on shellac. (Pick off the bristles that shed).
Cut the dewaxed shellac to 1# with denatured alcohol and apply liberally.
Apply several coats and wait 3-4 weeks before rubbing out as needed.
I'm no finishing genius but it works for me.
Have fun.
Lew
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On Tue, 18 Dec 2012 16:52:41 -0500, Greg Guarino wrote:

Because it seals against moisture vapor better than anything else, although poly comes close. But shellac wipes on with a rag and dries almost instantly. Pick up a can of Zinsser SealCoat and give it a try. Read the fine print - it says it's a 2 pound cut of dewaxed shellac. Get it somewhere with a good turnover - old cans don't dry well if they're over 2 years old.
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On Tuesday, December 18, 2012 4:45:28 AM UTC-8, Greg Guarino wrote:

FYI, no profesional cabinet shop is finishing unseen faces. Ply won't warp like solid wood. Really not necessary unless you have some extreme condition backed against a slurry wall or some other severe moisture situation.
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