Context:Plywood built-in bookcases.
I assume I should seal all surfaces in some way, even though the top,
bottom, back and one side will never be seen. True? If so, what should
I use? If it simply doesn't matter, I'll probably try to use up some
cans of whatever is on hand.
jewelry box I made in the 7th grade. (seriously, 1970) It's hard to
remember, and things may have changed. So tell me why I should buy some
for the unseen areas, other than to have yet another thing to finish
test pieces with.
SFWIW, I go to the local Harbor Freight and buy 2" chip brushes
by the dozen.
They work well for slathering on shellac. (Pick off the bristles that
Cut the dewaxed shellac to 1# with denatured alcohol and apply
Apply several coats and wait 3-4 weeks before rubbing out as needed.
I'm no finishing genius but it works for me.
On Tue, 18 Dec 2012 16:52:41 -0500, Greg Guarino wrote:
Because it seals against moisture vapor better than anything else,
although poly comes close. But shellac wipes on with a rag and dries
almost instantly. Pick up a can of Zinsser SealCoat and give it a try.
Read the fine print - it says it's a 2 pound cut of dewaxed shellac. Get
it somewhere with a good turnover - old cans don't dry well if they're
over 2 years old.
When fascism comes to America, it will be wrapped in the flag and
carrying a cross.
On Tuesday, December 18, 2012 4:45:28 AM UTC-8, Greg Guarino wrote:
FYI, no profesional cabinet shop is finishing unseen faces. Ply won't warp like solid wood. Really not necessary unless you have some extreme condition backed against a slurry wall or some other severe moisture situation.
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