I assume I should seal all surfaces in some way, even though the top, bottom, back and one side will never be seen. True? If so, what should I use? If it simply doesn't matter, I'll probably try to use up some cans of whatever is on hand.
My experience is limited and I don't think I've used shellac since the jewelry box I made in the 7th grade. (seriously, 1970) It's hard to remember, and things may have changed. So tell me why I should buy some for the unseen areas, other than to have yet another thing to finish test pieces with.
n some way, even though the top, bottom, back and one side will never be se= en. True? If so, what should I use? If it simply doesn't matter, I'll proba= bly try to use up some cans of whatever is on hand.
FYI, no profesional cabinet shop is finishing unseen faces. Ply won't warp = like solid wood. Really not necessary unless you have some extreme conditio= n backed against a slurry wall or some other severe moisture situation.
Because it seals against moisture vapor better than anything else, although poly comes close. But shellac wipes on with a rag and dries almost instantly. Pick up a can of Zinsser SealCoat and give it a try. Read the fine print - it says it's a 2 pound cut of dewaxed shellac. Get it somewhere with a good turnover - old cans don't dry well if they're over 2 years old.
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.