I havent' myself now that you bring it up. MIght make since, though.
I am suspecting that you are bragging about the quality of your plane
cut. I must say, I would find it hard to believe that any raw wood
could be as shiny as a coated and buffed piece, but then again, I
haven't seen your planes, either.
Can't buy into that one. As I said, when fully cured, these products
aren't toxic. And again, once cured, they don't exhibit any explosive
characteristics. I don't see the relevance of comparing cured resins
to high V.O.C. solvents.
Absolutely true. Not too many paint booths and clean rooms when they
started using it. Speed to keep the dust down and to increase
production was the reason it flourished as a finish.
A "film" finish is anything that form a film on the surface of the wood
as opposed to a penetrating finish such as one of various the oil
finishes (linseed oil, tung oil). Of the film finishes there are
evaporative finishes (lacquer, shellac, and water-base finishes) and
reactive finishes (oil based finishes, and catalyzed lacquers and varnishes.
See Jeff Jewett's article at:
Buffalo, NY - USA
Very good info. I had a different assumed definition of build vs film
and didn't relate the two as being such comparitive terms.
Thanks for that insight, it really helps my understanding. While I
knew the concepts expressed, I had clearly been using the terminology
Love these groups!
With regard to rubbing things out, my understanding is that wet/dry
sandpaper with a soapy water lubricant can be used to level the
finish. What sort of soap? I tried it with some diluted dishwashing
detergent and it seems to have created spots in the finish. More
coats of finish over top seems to have undone the damage, but I am
loathe to try it again.
Is it possible that some dishwashing detergents contain silicone,
which I understand to be deadly for finishing?
Liquid dishwashing soap is the typical suggestion. Good Q about
silicon. Not sure. I've only done it with mineral spirits and it works
nice. It actually works better once you get a sort of slurry of sanded
powder and the spirits, then it starts to cut like a polishing agent.
Just keep adding spirits as they evap. At least that has been my
experience with rubbing out poly. I never got to that really nice
finish some say is possible. I just killed the nubs, etc. Still regret
using ploy though. I feel like I ruined the nice Cherry coffee table
and end table but the cutso seemed to like it. Too plastic for me.
Since then I always do a sample finish on extra stock for custos
before committing to the whole piece.
Thanks for the suggestion about mineral spirits.
The final finish on the piece I've been working on I would describe as
"okay". I might wait until the finish cures harder and try to rub it
out again, but I'm afraid that I've reached some kind of local
maximum. It is not perfect, but I'm afraid more effort on my part is
likely to make things worse.
I did make a sample piece that I was very happy with, but it was too
small to predict my actual skill level, I think. My sample was only
4"x4", and it has no flaws. The drawer front is 3"x20" and it also
has no flaws. The table top has approximately one flaw per square
foot. Since the drawer and my sample are both less than half of one
square foot the probabilities have worked out exactly. :)
After rubbing with steel wool and wax, the sheen on the top is oddly
uneven, too. (More glossy stripes beside less glossy stripes.) The
piece looks OK most of the time, but if the light source is oblique
the inconsistent reflection really shows. This is what I think I can
fix with more rubbing, but I'm going to wait a couple of weeks until
the finish is as hard as it will get. And then I'll decide if I want
to risk cutting all the way through.
Foolishly, I thought the hard part was over when the dovetails fit. :(
Murphy's Oil Soap (no the spray version!) works, as does purpose-made
Behlen "Wool Lube".
Silicone hurts finishes as you try to apply the finish over silicone.
It shouldn't affect a previously appled finish. Many auto and furniture
care products have lots of silicone and get used over just about all
finishes without damage.
In most cases, yes, if you just brush it on.
If, however, you let it cure for a couple of weeks and go through the wet
sanding, steel wool, pumice, rottenstone, then wax, it will look as good as
Not my favorite finish, but you are indeed correct. It is often the
product/type of finish which gets the blame, when it should be the
I've seen some gorgeous pieces with a "poly" finish.
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