Finishes on kitchen cabinets

[Jerry]

Greetings all,

I have a friend who wants me to build new kitchen cabinets for her. I'm not uncomfortable with the woodworking part, but the finish she wants is a deep red cherry she sees at some of the home centers.

I've often wondered about how the commercial cabinet makers achieve their finishes. From the research I've done over the past few days it would appear that they use spray lacquers. I would like to know the following:

1. Am I correct in thinking the commercial cabinet producers use spray lacquers?

1. If I decide to use a spray lacquer, should I tint the lacquer or spray a clear lacquer over a stained wood? (I have used aniline dyes for a smaller project and sprayed a clear coat over that, but I'm not sure if this would be good for a large project).

2. If I am going to color the wood, does it really matter if I use cherry wood or not? Couldn't I just use birch in such a case?

1. I have an HVLP spray setup, but since I don't have proper ventilation I'd prefer using water based lacquers. Anyone had any experiences with these?

Thanks in advance for the help. This project is still in the planning phase, so I have some time to experiment with suggestions.

Regard,

Jerry

[LP]

Dye the wood and shoot it with clear

Sure. As long as the grain pattern is acceptable to the customer

Best thing you can use. All the benefits of nitrocellulose with almost none of the drawbacks. My favorite for cabinets is the Oxford Ultima by Target Coatings. Get a quart of retarder at the same time you order the lacquer. You dont need much (10%) but it helps the lacquer to level out better.

Thanks in advance for the help. This project is still in the planning

[Never Enough Money]

I can't help but am very interested in what responses you get. I made this post only to say that I've seen charts in books that compare the properties of various finishes. I've posted some questions about finishes which mix things like Danish oil and wax -- these books don't treat the mixes (that I know of).

For your cabinets you're probably interested in color, durability, and perhaps water resistence on the inside (since sometimes dishes get returned to the cabinet not completely dry).

I suppose you also need to decide how glossy you want them to look.

[Never Enough Money]

I can't help but am very interested in what responses you get. I made this post only to say that I've seen charts in books that compare the properties of various finishes. I've posted some questions about finishes which mix things like Danish oil and wax -- these books don't treat the mixes (that I know of).

For your cabinets you're probably interested in color, durability, and perhaps water resistence on the inside (since sometimes dishes get returned to the cabinet not completely dry).

I suppose you also need to decide how glossy you want them to look.

[MikeG]

Hi Jerry

Yes commercial cabinet makers use lacquer, most likely a catalyzed lacquer. However a good water based lacquer would do the job. My preference is for Crystalac 2000. Of the several water based lacquers I've used it come the closest too looking like nitrocellulose.

Yes you can add color to the lacquer as long as it is like based, water too water, oil to oil.

In fact the method used by commercial cabinet makers is called toning. One or more colored coats of the finish are sandwiched in between the clear coats.

Doing it that way, since it avoids the usual staining problems, is a great labor saver for the commercial people and can be for you. It also by passes the problem of solid wood not taking color the same way ply of the same species will.

As too whether staining another species rather then use actual cherry. That is pretty much up for discussion between the person footing the bill and the person who has too look at the job day after day.

I'd strongly suggest doing up a couple of samples and a sit down with the person you are making the cabinets for.

[nospambob]

[bridger]

I spray a waterborne finish from

I tint it with waterbase stains from my goal with this approach is to avoid the "grain reversal" that comes from the stain absorbing more into the softer, usually lighter grain. it just looks wrong to me to have the grain reverse....

I did a dark red over birch recently. I did all of the color as tint mixed into the topcoat. it came out looking good, but it took a lot of coats. I think if I was doing it again I'd apply at least some of the color to the wood first.

[Mark L.]

[Nova]

Hi Jerry,

Also in Jeff Jewett's book "Great Wood Finishes" he outlines a procedure for "Colonial Cherry", the look of commercial cherry furniture on page 222. The book should be available at your local library.

-- Jack Novak Buffalo, NY - USA (Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)

[GerryG]

There are a few variations of the "commercial" cherry. In general, the deeper and more uniform reds include a glaze coat. This provides an easier and closer match between the pieces of cherry. I did get a close match by selecting the wood, then applying a combination of dye then toner (Transtints from Homestead). GerryG

[Jerry]

I want to thank everyone who posted answers to my questions. You all have given me a lot to research and practice with. Woodworkers are the greatest!

Jerry