Finished this weekend

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Here are a couple of projects I finished this weekend:
http://www.loyno.edu/~cbmarsh/caseandtable.htm
I also posted a couple of pics of the table over at a.b.p. woodworking with a question: Does anyone have a method of toning down light sapwood in a mostly-heartwood board?
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Charlie M. 1958 wrote:

Very attractive work.
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Mortimer Schnerd, RN
mschnerdatcarolina.rr.com
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wrote:

Charlie M' When I saw just the closed box, I thought it must hold the Hope Diamond. Its a bit beautiful for bits.
Joe G
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That router bit case is much nicer than many jewelry cases. I bet it is even nicer than Rob Lee's! No brass inserts??
I could not help but wonder. Does the contents of this routerbit case cost more than is what in the wife's jewelry box?
Also, if the router bit case is this nice, what does the shop bench look like?
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Lee Michaels wrote:

The wife doesn't blink an eye if I give her a $500 bracelet, but just let me try buying $500 worth of router bits and see what happens!
Actually, a nice bench is something I'd like to tackle one day. My current one is just of the general 2 x 4 construction workshop variety, with a cheapo woodworking vise stuck onto one end.
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Wow. Charlie. Talk about nice work. I like the table - but the box everyone is talking about here is gorgeous. Really nice design and choice of woods to highlight it.
Personally, I like the kind of contrast that certain sapwood patterns provide. I am not >>personally<< that fond of large pieces that are homogenous in appearance. I see so much plywood in case/carcass construction these days (even in tops) that some solid woods look a lot like plywood to me in certain presentations.
Sapwood gives a great opportunity to have a contrasting trim, highlight area or accent, showing off real, solid wood.
Most attempts to mute the transition of sap to heartwood are performed with diluted stains, different toners, or even thinned glazes. I haven't had that much luck with them, and don't like the end result of muddied grain, unnatural coloring, or being forced to change the color of the whole piece to accomodate an off color area.
BUT... I understand if you have to tone it down a bit, it happens. My best luck has been with spraying highly diluted dyes. As always practice on a piece you can sand off and try again, if you need to.
You need to almost airbrush the dye on, and it is easy to do. I use Behlens SolarLux, and like it a lot. TransTint etc., have fading problems, but so far I have had none at all with the SolarLux product and it has been completely compatible with every finish I use.
To start, I find the color of SolarLux I am thinking will be the best match for the wood I am trying to match, and start there. Thin the dye with anhydrous alcohol, 1 part dye to 3 - 4 parts alcohol. I load mine into a cheap auto touch up gun, and hit it with medium pressure, medium fan. Mist on the sap area. Wait ten - 15 minutes (dry to the touch) and spray again. You coats should be really light, and you may need 4 or 5 coats to get the match you want. But doing it this way you can dial in the color as close as you eye will let you.
Don't be fooled by the powdery appearance of the diluted stain on your test piece. After misting 2 -3 coats, try a little top coat finish on the test piece, and see if it matches the test piece (with sample finish applied) you are trying to match. The top coat will clarify the dye and define the final color.
If you are adjusting color in a table top or flat area that has an offending board, remember that your dye application will require less material at the start of the sapwood area as opposed to the middle of the sapwood area. Misting on the coats of thinned product will allow you feather in the color transition, making the dye almost unnoticeable.
It probably sounds harder than it is. If I have good color tones with me, I can hone in a good match with test finish in an hour (with a fast drying topcoat - not poly).
Not all woods are the same, and with some woods that drastically change grain pattern and formation from the heartwood to sapwood, your success with this method will vary. I don't know anyone else that does it this way, but it works for me as it maintains the clarity of the wood grains.
Really liked that router box!
Robert
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snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:
... It probably sounds harder than it is. If I have good color tones with

your response to try it at some point in the future when the need arises again.
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wrote:

Anytime. I tried to give a detailed explanation so that if you did try it, you would have all you needed. I wasn't trying to scare you... I should have said, "So easy a caveman could do it!".
Don't let the details throw you off.
If you get in a bind, ping me on this NG.
Keep posting your projects. They look great.
Robert
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Charlie M. 1958 wrote:

from the referenced web page

Let's see. Cherry & Spalted maple? All brass hardware Half blind dovetails Nice finish Units stack snuggly Pieces will never leave the shop
Nope - no going overboard herem on this Shop Furniture Project.
AND now you can do a silver chest since most of the design work and process has been worked out in your prototype.
Nice stuff.
charlie b
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"Charlie M. 1958" wrote in message

Very nice!
Actually, I thought the picture of the _open_ case would reveal the family jewels ... but, nice solid gold "display" router bits in that box!! ;)

I learned to generally try to make it a feature and highly visible, front and center, instead of dulling up a walnut finish trying to hide it.
Seems the more you try to hide it, the less satisfying the end results is.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
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Swingman wrote:

Thanks all.
Funny story, Swingman.....after trying a couple things and not liking the results, I decided to convince myself that the color variation was a "feature" of the wood. As a few days went by working on the project in my spare time, I began to like the way the sapwood looked mixed into the heartwood, and I decided I really had been too critical at first.
Then, when it was finished, I called in SWMBO for her final approval. Her first comment: "Oh , that's pretty!" Second comment: "Why is that wood kinda funky looking?"
Oh well.
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wrote:

And I have cought flack for using some curly maple for some of my shop cabinets? LOL.
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On Mon, 19 Mar 2007 10:23:10 -0500, "Charlie M. 1958"

Nice!
I made a wheel chock this weekend. I'll spare the photos. <G>
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Boy those are some very lucky router bits....Mine get a cruel particle board drawer in a cabinet.
Nice job on both......
Allen

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Charlie M. 1958 wrote:

I'm constantly in awe of the things I see here. Beautiful work.
There are times when I hesitate to click on links because I know I'll see things I will never have the skills to do, but click anyway and I'm never disappointed.
Tanus
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http://users.compzone.ca/george/shop /
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Tanus wrote:

do anything a ten-thumbed guy like me with cheap tools can do!
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You don't know that. When this group is working right, we are learning from each other. I think you should always look, and always see projects you would like to try yourself. You learn by doing - if you are just getting started, you actually don't know how good you will be when you zenith.
Robert
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On 20 Mar 2007 12:11:32 -0700, " snipped-for-privacy@aol.com"

Right on!
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snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

Agreed Robert. That's why I said I hesitate.
And Charlie, you're not ten thumbs by any stretch.
Tanus
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http://users.compzone.ca/george/shop /
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Tanus wrote:

Thanks for the vote of confidence, Tanus. FWIW, I get that same feeling of inadequacy you were describing when I see the work done by some of the real pros here. :-)
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