Finish on oak veneer & redwood

I just built a large peice for my son to dump his sweaty hocket gear into. The carcass is made of redwood I had leftover from a deck. The panels are made of half inch thick oak veneer plywood. It has a fan in it which sucks air through it to dry the sweaty things. (He only washes this stuff once a season but that's another story.)
The redwood and the oak veneer kinda sorta compliment each other. It'll be in the garage anyway! However, if he looses his interest in hockey, it would make a nice blanket and quilt chest (it opens from the top). Anyway I want it to look nice even though it's made of cheap wood.
Now the purpose of the post:
I'm considering one of three finishes.
1. A couple of coats of Watco Danish oil followed by a couple of coats of Bison wax.
2. A couple of coats of Dannish oil followed by a coat or two of polyurethane.
3. One of the hardwood floor finishes like Bona strong FUHR 255 URETHANE FLOOR FINISH BioShield McCLOSKEY GYMSEAL FLOOR FINISH
Option #3 seems an expensive route, plus the finish is probably too glossy.
Any of you have opinions about my choices or have recommendations of your own? BTW, the main compartment will have sweaty stuff in it so I think some level of water repellant-ness or proof-ness is appropriate.
TIA.
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I am finding that bison wax is not very water resistent. However, it might look good on the outside.
[snip]
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Not sure why you haven't received any responses, but it may have something to do with your alias. I immediately glazed over it when I saw your alias and then decided to take a look when I read the topic.
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On 28 Sep 2004 06:30:36 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com (Never Enough Money) wrote:

No, it's because I never apply to finishing questions.
Buy a bunch of finishes. Use every one on at least one project. Stick with the one you liked.
Anything else is just my opinions and taste vs. yours. I think poly looks ugly, you might like it for the hard-wearing properties. Who can decide ?
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Here's a report.
I created samples with scrap woods (oak veneer and redwood). I applied Watco Danish oil to both -- two coats. That looked good.
Then over half of the Danish oil treated surface I put on Minwax Neutral Paste. let it dry for 15 minutes and buffed it.
The color didn't change (and I didn't expect it to). However, the feel was much better. It was much smoother. I imagine it provides more protection, too.
Now, I still can't do finishes as beautiful as illustrated in books but this one looked good. I recommend.
As stated in othe rpost on this trhead, I'll use polyurethane on those parts exposed to damp things. I'll do the above for all the exterior.
[snip]
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