I am building a couple of Adirondack chairs from Redwood. I found
some nice clear Redwood for most of the visible slats, arms etc.
Under-structure is construction grade Redwood. This stuff is hard to
find in Kansas.
I want to preserve the color and not let it gray out. I have googled
and found lots of recommendations for oils including teak oil and
others. So many variations I am about as confused as when I started.
A suitable penetrating oil seems to be the way to go. Do any of you
guys have experience with a similar project? They will be outdoors.
Penofin oil. It comes in clear but will darken the wood but it is beautiful.
Also comes in toned colors so you can shift towards a red. I prefer the clear.
I know a local guy who builds very high-end redwood furniture and you can't get
it from him without Penofin. Contractors also swear by it.
Others should confirm on here I believe.
On Wednesday, June 20, 2012 2:13:53 PM UTC+2, RonB wrote:
I suggest you use the least expensive oil or oil / film finish mixture
you can find that is suitable for outdoor use. None of these finishes will
last more than a year or three. The wood turns gray due to light and water.
You will have to retreat every year. One goal is to use something that you
will not have to apply more than once a year. I do not think you would want
to apply the oil twice or three times during the spring or summer months.
That's because the manufacturers are selling snake oil. The preponderance
of the oil finishes are using boiled linseed oil. It protects well, does
darken as it ages. How much it darkens depends upon how much was absorbed.
You wouldn't notice the darkening on redwood assuming it is heart redwood.
Another often used oil is tung oil, comes from the nut of the tung tree. It
doesn't darken, is good stuff. There are other oils derived from trees
too...penofin uses rosewood oil.
Many manufacturers also include some varnish in their product. The names
that manufacturers give their products are frequently misleading (by
design); e.g., you can bet that anything that calls itself "tung oil finish"
is mostly linseed oil with a dollop of tung.
Personally, I am happy with linseed oil, tung if I want to be fancy. It is
more expensive to buy but can be diluted with paint thinner 3-4:1.
Regardless of what you use, expect to renew it as soon as water stops
Penofin. I've used it on furniture and I'm in the process of
rebuilding my deck with Tigerwood decking. The Penofin oil makes it
look beautiful. Other wood that I've coated once a year still looks
good and has not grayed out.
Sikkens is one that has popped up in separate research with the
Penofin that several have mentioned here. Also, I have found several
recipes for exterior finish that are similar to home-brew wiping
finish. The most common recipe is:
- 1/3 Spar Varnish
- 1/3 BLO
- 1/3 Mineral Spirits.
The ratios vary a little but the spar varnish is supposed to provide
the UV protection and flexibility. This reminded me of the Maloof
finish which was very similar and simple. I have chair #2 about 1/2
finished ant then I'm gonna have to do something.
Good luck, I hope it works better for you than for me. It is supposed
to be very good, but the only outdoor wood (cypress) that ever rotted
on me had Cetol on it. Maybe I got a bad batch of wood or Cetol.
Thanks for a lot of good input. I finished the chairs last week and
opted to go with a home-blended mixture of equal parts mineral
spirits, BLO and spar varnish. I have four coats applied and will
sand lightly for the second time tomorrow and put on a fifth and
probably final coat. The home-brew provides a beautiful finish on the
redwood, each coat slightly darker and more red.
Of course time will tell on durability.'
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