Finger/box joints (may be a double posting)


I'm going to do some experimentation. I can't see any reason why, with the proper setup, I can't do reasonable finger/box joints on my router table. Same as the way they're done on a TS except using a straight bit. Right?
FoggyTown
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foggytown wrote:

Right
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dadiOH
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foggytown wrote:

Keep in mind that the rotation of the router bit will try to push the material sideways. Either way is a good way to lose a finger though. I prefer the tablesaw. The resistance is directly against you instead of sideways. AND, your router may not be comfortable making the cuts in one pass. You may have to take a little at a time to complete your cuts. OH! and tear-out! I'd like to see a comparison between box joints that were cut on a TS vs Router table.
Tom in KY, A tablesaw would just be so much easier, wouldn't it?
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There's a trick to it. Once learned, things go much better. Don't stick your finger in the bit/blade.

No difference.

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You may want to make or buy a jig like they use on ROUTER WORKSHOP. Makes life a whole lot simpler.

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http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=boxj --
Middle-schoolers used it with great success.
If you build your own, remember that the height of the straddle fence should be no more than the thickness of the thinnest wood you'll work on it. Other than that, piece of cake, and "micro" adjustments are made with the tap of a hammer. Fence toward bit makes looser, fence away makes tighter.

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Yep. Works great.

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I built a microjustable jig out of Shopsmith, and it works great! Although, if you are using plywood, it will tear out = hardwood is not problem..joints are tight, fitting, and look like they were handcut...
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You may find that the spiral upcut bits help (but not eliminate) tearout. They certainly perform better than 1 or 2 flute straight bits.
Something like
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&pB891&cat=1,46168,46171&ap=1
cheers ...
brian
foggytown wrote:

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Spiral bits make a big difference. They significantly reduce tear-out, and I highly recommend that you use one. Another thing that you should do is to make a fresh backer board, so your first cut puts a hole in it exactly the size of your router bit cut. With this backer board in place, all box joint cuts with that router bit set at that height will have minimum tear-out. If you change any settings, make a new backer board. The backer board holds the wood fibers in place around the edge of the cut instead of letting the router bit tear them out.
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Charley


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