Look closely at the picture again - it can't be made the way it's depicted -
that or my eyeballs need adjusting. Look at the top rail and see where the
cross-brace abuts to the top rail, then look at the how the braces are
fastened in the center of the top rail.
Also, I doubt that a gate that long made out of wood (heavy) would not be
sagging on the ground in short order without some serious method of keeping
the top rail under tension.
The OP could look at the cattle gates for some ideas if his gate needs to be
Wed, Feb 15, 2006, 9:25am (EST-1) firstname.lastname@example.org (Swingman) doth telleth
it like it is:
Your eyeballs need adjusting.
If the guy still needs plans, I've posted some in the past,
including some similar to that - check the archives. Or, google will
turn up plans in a minute or so, free plans to boot.
I'm busy now, can I ignore you some other time?
Because you wanted to do it right, not a flimsy abomination like the
No plans offhand (I'll look) - but there's a lot of subtlety to making a
good gate and that one just isn't it. Nice illustration in Rose's
<(Amazon.com product link shortened)>
of a classically styled jowled gate (a good journeyman's day's work to
make) and that's also a delightful book.
Gates are hung from a gatepost, so they're inherently asymmetric. They
also _hang_, so the forces are tensile forces acting diagonally
downwards away from the post. The design and bracing should take this
into account. Diamond symmetry like the illustration is for bracing
riveted iron towers, not wooden gates. Almost everything about that
picture is wrong: the symmetry, the use of rivets, not tenons. the equal
weight of the posts and frame members adjacent to them, and most of all
the expectation that timber can be joined in any sort of crossing joint
and be expected to be a strong joint.
Incidentally "Handy Farm Devices" will probably be recommended as a
book, but happens to be poor on gates (easy rather than good).
Here are some better (but not perfect) ideas
Big vertical frame member alongside the hinges, higher than the main
gate. Big diagonal down from this to the lower rail about 3/4+ of the
span outwards. The diagonal doesn't (and shouldn't) go right to the top
of the vertical though. Forget the top rail - that's just for leaning on
and climbing over, it's the diagonal that's the real strength of this
gate. The horizontal slats are attached _to_ the diagonal and the
frame, the diagonal isn't added to them later as an after thought. On a
big or tall gate, add a second diagonal beneath the main diagonal at
near right angles to it and going down to the bottom hinge-side corner
(liek the juniperfencing gate).
All major joints should be tee joints and mortice and tenoned. If you
can't do this, add iron straps. Right angles are strongest, but skewed
is OK (harder to cut though).
I built a few w/ 2x6's
The rails were sandwiched between double posts to replicate a mortised
appearance (like you see on the PVC fencing
I have an AutoCAD layout (dwg) I can post to abpw
A pic too.....somewhere
They are heavy. My largest was over 8 ft
Thanks for the comments.
Ok, you can determine alot from the photo. But I would be a great help to
have a plan of somekind as a guidence. So Barry if you are willing to post
the CAd file, I would appriciate it alot.
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