Swingman, that looks similar to something I was considering making. Is that mounted to the table or insert?
I like your extended length over the table. Am I safe to assume that it is a fixed height?
A friend and I recently built a Roubo bench. The instructions called for soft maple, but we opted for hard maple for the top. Huge mistake! ...
The hard maple was far harder to machine, both with the table saw and particularly the router. Stick with soft maple and save yourself some grief.
John McCoy wrote in news:XnsA5E3B32D2AFE5pogosupernews@213.239.209.88:
*snip* *snip*Speaking of push sticks, avoid making the Birdsmouth style. That's a notch cut out of the end of a piece of wood. Sometimes plastic molded ones are sold as "push sticks" or "getting started" tools, but those should be avoided. They're dangerous. They put pressure on the very end of the board, which encourages it to lift.
A "shoe" style or other form will be much better. They keep pressure along the entire board so it's not likely to lift.
Puckdropper
The utility of the birds mouth style is the last few inches of cut, where they keep your hand well separated from the blade. At that point if the board lifts it's not because you put a little pressure on the end.
At least if you subscribe to the "never put your hand above the blade" philosophy, which I do and some don't.
"dadiOH" wrote in news:ne6pep$jtl$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:
No, 7', which is a bit of an awkward size.
OTOH 14' would have been a bit of a problem too, because my truck has an 8' bed. I can carry 12' with the tailgate down and no need for a flag/light, but 14' might get a trooper's attention.
John
All that I got was 14' or a tad more. They offered to cut them to 7' but I declined as I needed some longer than that, prefer to do my own cutting.
What I got was quite nice...6"+ to 12", relatively flat, generally one edge straight enough for ripping. Thick too; I can get 7/8 out of all of it, frequently 15/16, sometimes 1". Also, quite pretty and almost no bad spots.
OFWW wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:
I have seen, altho not made one myself, splitters that are just a thin piece of wood sticking out of a zero-clearance insert. The key points are the splitter should be just a tad thinner than the blade, and aligned perfectly behind the blade.
Of course, you also want it strong enough that, if the kerf closes on it, it doesn't just snap off.
John
Leon wrote in news:_rOdnZcbyJO1nprKnZ2dnUU7- snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:
Maybe not so much, now that riving knives are becoming popular.
I have to admit having done almost the same thing, wanting to quickly put a 1/8 groove in a piece and hitting the splitter. I'd like to think that if I had changed the blade (which of course I didn't for the 1/8 groove) I would have remembered not to put the splitter back on.
John
The splitter is attached to the blade guard mount common on a Unisaw:
Made from an old Delta blade guard part, so, unlike a riving knife, it does not move up and down with the blade (but it does tilt).
It has proven very difficult to adapt older table saws with a riving knife. There have been many attempts, most IME are not worth the money, and are kludgy and fussy.
Plus, the one's I've seen in action fail the most important attribute with regard to any "add on" to a table saw:
~ It must be so convenient, intuitive and easy to use that you never fail to use it. ~
I'm contemplating the purchase of a SawStop, and the number one feature that attracts me, besides the safety factor, is the built-in riving knife. Basically, I will never buy another table saw for shop use that does not incorporate a riving knife.
SCROLL RIGHT for three photos.
My own design and build. Attaches to the back of the table saw table (with a wide French cleat), and has two folding legs, with adjustable feet (not shown).
You can throw one together in a morning in the shop.
I played a similar gambit about 30 years go, except I rented a truck for a business trip. I scored up 250' of Hard Maple 2x10s (complete with tap holes) and 1000' of cedar for a fence.
+1
I never move my hand beyond the blade while it's spinning.
Microjig makes these. I used them for a while but bought the knife for my Unisaur.
If it does, it'll still old the kerf open.
This splitter works pretty good. They offer one with a metal core and one that is all plastic. Get the metal core one. I used on for years.
I will say that most splitters do not work if you are not making a through cut. A riving knife typically raises and lowers with the blade so it usally never has to be removed unless you are cutting groves or dado's.
A question about that. I don't have a saw with a riving knife. The ads I have seen for them suggest that since the knife is set a little lower than the blade and moves with it, that it doesn't even have to be removed for dados. Which is correct? John
That is correct.
No, that is not correct, assuming you make dado's the traditional way. For the most part most TS's have 10" blades. Most dado sets are either
6" or 8". The riving knife would stand either 1" or 2" taller than the dado blades.That said, most modern saws that have riving knives are set for very easy removal and replacement. I personally own a SawStop ICS. It is very easy to remove the riving knife, pull the lever up and remove the knife, replace the knife and push the lever down. AAMOf it is often easier to change blades with the riving blade removed. It is a 2~3 second operation removing and or replacing the riving knife when changing blades.
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