ff's is soft or hard maple preferred.

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I am about to order the material for my kitchen cabinets.
For the ff's, is there any preference for hard or soft maple. Keep in mind I will be painting the whole enchilada.
I've got a good sale price of 46 bucks a sheet of mdf plywood core 3/4". A competitor for J Classic Lam.
Found a good local source hardwood business that has a number of stores around So. Cal.
I was thinking that hard maple would be stronger, but does soft have an advantage for glue ups?
I am building a mobile rack for the plywood, hope to have it finished and rolling, tomorrow.
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IMHO soft is plenty strong but not as dent resistant as with the hard. Soft will also be easier to mill.
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I was thinking about the latter part, they said their stuff was s3s. Is it possible to compare the softness against Oak?
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OFWW wrote:

Sure https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Janka_hardness_test
Frankly, I wouldn't be worrying much about hardness. I'd be more concerned about paintability and I generally use poplar for that.
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wrote:

Well we have oak frames in the house, and they weathered well for 40 years. No discernable nicks, and tough as nails to disassemble.
Yes, Paintability is my main concern but Poplar, me, and white paint don't seem to get along to well together.
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On 04/06/2016 9:45 AM, OFWW wrote:
...

On the Janka scale, hard maple is about 1450 while white oak is about 1350 and red oak more like 1300. For comparison soft maple is 950, same as cherry and walnut is about 1000.
It will have a "blander" characteristic than would hard maple for a clearcoat finish; it doesn't have the highlights and occasional eye that does hard maple, even if not selected for figure. If an opaque finish is planned, soft will be easier to get uniform finish with but will need proper surface prep...
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Wife wants white, white. They seem to say that Maple burns easily with hi-speed tools. Have you noticed that?
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On 4/6/2016 7:56 PM, OFWW wrote:

Yep. Particularly if your tools are not setup properly and/or are on the dull side.
Also, reaction wood, and maple has its share, can make it worse.
That said, you can get lucky and find the burn parts can be sanded out without too much ado, and, if you're painting, might not be that big of an issue.
I certainly would not make that a deciding factor, all other things being equal.
I do use a ton of maple these days. Got a good deal on some, which Leon got on to also.
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Thanks to you guys I have new bits, and DADO blade kit.

What is considered a good price?
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On 4/7/2016 10:39 AM, OFWW wrote:

Free! LOL
Actually a good price will depend on your location. Prices vary widely depending on your proximity to the source.
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OFWW wrote:

That depends upon how much you want and what grade. If you want 25 brd.ft. it will cost more than 250 brd.ft. If you want FAS or select it will cost more than #1 common.
It also depends upon where you buy it. Buy locally - assuming "locally" isn't near the source - and it will cost more than a place close to the source; buy there and you have to factor in freight. Which can be horrendous. I recently bought 200 ft+ of mahogany at $5.25/brd.ft. Total cost was about $1230 + $212 freight from NC to central Florida.
It also depends upon the vendor. One place in NC has soft maple for $2.60, another at $3.65.
BTW, IMO is is folly to buy FAS/Select in many cases. Judicicious cutting of #1 common can result in considerable savings. For little stuff like face frames - particularly when it will be painted - #1 common is appropriate. IMO :)
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Hmmm, I just got 200bf from NC down to the pointy end of Fla, and the shipping was free. 100bf of some kind of mahogany (probably khaya or something African) and 100bf of poplar for about $650 total.
Of course, the only reason it was shipped free was I drove up there in the pickup truck...my employer wanted me up there and they pay for me to drive, and don't care if I use the car or the truck.
John
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John McCoy wrote:

Lucky you. Next time you go pick up another 200bf of Khaya, ribbon stripe (quartered) for me. Play your cards right and I'll toss in supper :)
Was your mahogany about 14' long?
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No, 7', which is a bit of an awkward size.
OTOH 14' would have been a bit of a problem too, because my truck has an 8' bed. I can carry 12' with the tailgate down and no need for a flag/light, but 14' might get a trooper's attention.
John
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John McCoy wrote:

All that I got was 14' or a tad more. They offered to cut them to 7' but I declined as I needed some longer than that, prefer to do my own cutting.
What I got was quite nice...6"+ to 12", relatively flat, generally one edge straight enough for ripping. Thick too; I can get 7/8 out of all of it, frequently 15/16, sometimes 1". Also, quite pretty and almost no bad spots.
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On Thu, 7 Apr 2016 21:13:36 -0000 (UTC), John McCoy

I played a similar gambit about 30 years go, except I rented a truck for a business trip. I scored up 250' of Hard Maple 2x10s (complete with tap holes) and 1000' of cedar for a fence.
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wrote:

Your usage of unfamiliar terms means more learning, I see. :) I was told either 2.14 or 3.14 bd ft for S3S Soft maple and 3.47 for Hard S3S Maple.
So when I get back to the store and order I'll firm up those prices and how much I need before I put down the Cash.
Today was a bad day, the 2 year old Yellow Lab started throwing up, then puking up everything in her tummy. She went out in the back yard, ate a bunch of grass, drank water and puked up everything shortly after. Within an hour she drank a lot of water and puked it all up. What a mess, ran her to the vet, end result surgery. She had swallowed a rock, fortunately it was smooth. We pick her up tomorrow. I told the surgeon to save me the rock. Paid more for that rock then the ring on my wife's finger. I'm thinking of having it mounted, the rock. ;)
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Sugar.
On 4/6/2016 7:56 PM, OFWW wrote:

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On Wed, 6 Apr 2016 22:56:12 -0500, Martin Eastburn

I'm laughing, simple answer, on the mark from what I can see.

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On 04/06/2016 7:56 PM, OFWW wrote: ...

Yeah, it's kinda' like cherry but not quite so much so.
If painting, there's no reason at all to use hard maple and even poplar is probably "hard enough" to avoid all but the worst of abuse.
I've not noticed an preponderance towards reaction wood in all the soft maple I've used -- bought some 600 bd ft several years ago that used for windows and the like when clear white pine was purely unobtainable at less than gold prices...
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