Sure, but the point being that it's not doing anything unless the clutch is depressed and then there is no energy being transferred so it's not doing much then either
Well, there is a force tangent to the shaft, tending to want to twist the bearings, because the cutting isn't symmetrical. The rear bearing has to take that force. I'm sure it's more than .5%. ;-)
And that was the point I was trying to make about the pilot bushing not doing much work at all a majority of the time especially when the vehicle is under way. But there is slight work being done by the bushing when the engine is running and the clutch is disengaged, it is keeping the input shaft and clutch plate properly aligned when the pressure plate is not holding every thing in place. Remember, the crank shaft and pilot bearing continue to spin whether the input shaft is turning or not.
With the Portable circular saw there is a similar load but the real load is so very close to the armature gear and gear bearing that the end cap bearing basically only has to hold the armature in alignment. The bearing on the other end of the armature is handling 99% of the load.
the only tool i have that is louder is my planer the other annoying thing about my shop vac is the exhaust comes out of canister handles and is directed downward
i had a bucket of saw dust and the shop vac was next to the bucket instant dust cloud fwiw i use the saw dust in garden mulch
My sister was a gardener, kind'a serious at one time. She claimed that the fresh saw dust used as mulch should compost for a while before use. Apparently the fresh sawdust takes nutrients from the soil and other plants if it goes on fresh and has not begun to decompose.
It can raise the nitrogen levels of the soil, if you have ever burned out a bit of lawn with to much fertilizer same idea. Composting with extra green stuff lessens that problem.
it is worse than that it can kill off plants if you apply it directly she is right that it has to be mixed into compost and the compost let to go thru the stages so that the ph normalizes and other things but knowing this it can also be applied direct to paths to prevent growth
I don't base my buying decision on the overpaid salary of CEOs, otherwise I'd do all my shopping at HF, it's just a fact to point out when a tool brand is twice as much as it's competition which do the job just as well, if not better.
After reading a lot about the trees that are members of the "juglans" family, I don't sand walnut without a mask, and toss ALL shavings in the garbage. To dangerous when in the form or sawdust or shavings.
For those not up on the subject, here's something to look at:
Electric Comet wrote in news:mtqel6$3c8$3 @dont-email.me:
I've venture a guess that it involves paraffin wax. Google will tell you enough to get started, you can get the wax from a store like Hobby Lobby. Look for a 40% off coupon before you pay. They can scan the smart phone so there's no need to print it.
blasphemy!!! Infidel!!! Also interesting is much of the greatest woodworking was done not just before Festool, but before electricity. I look at it like photography. You can have a $30,000 camera and gear and take crap pictures, and a pocket camera and take great pictures. Wood work is similar, in that it's the design more than the process. If you have good design, building the thing matters not if it's festool, HF or anything in between.
CEO's want money, nothing wrong with that, it's what keeps Festool, Harbor Freight and everyone in between working.
I agree 100% with this.
HF's stick is cheap, Festools stick is expensive. Normally, the best bang for the buck is somewhere in between. Is there a difference between a $100 ridged shop vac and a $700 Festool shop vac? I would hope so, but do you really need those things?. If you are a contractor with lots of people using your tools, you don't want to take out a loan every time a drill or saw gets legs, or dropped 10 stories onto a side walk. You also don't want something that breaks every few hours of abuse, so you buy good quality at a reasonable price.
I think it's the opposite. Fresh mulch uses up nitrogen as it decomposes. I believe the reason you want greens included in mulch, like green grass, is it's high in nitrogen. Sawdust, leaves and so on has little nitrogen.
You shouldn't plant anything in compost until it is done decomposing. You can use it as mulch around the top, but not in place of dirt in the root area.
I use sawdust in my compost pile if I have too much. Takes a bit longer to decompose than leaves, but the key is to mix it with green stuff.
You have a cheap planer. You should get a spiral segmented job, then your ears would only bleed from your shop vac. Then, spend $100 on a Ridged Shop vac, and your ears will stop bleeding altogether. You probably won't hear your cell phone ringing with both running, but that I figure is a bonus...
You can get a spiral segmented job for under 2G's, up to 100's of G's. If you want to impress the world, go for the 100G model, otherwise, Grizzly sells one good enough, if not the best or most expensive ever made.
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.