Quiet is relative.
It is the quietest vac I have ever heard except for maybe the Fein.
I seldom hear the vac when using along with the tool that I am using, be
that a corded drill with the Kreg pocket hold jig, track saw, or either
sander. The power tool, not the vac, is the dominating sound that you
hear. In fact I cannot tell by sound, when using with another tool with
it, if it is on low or high suction power. I have to look at the dial.
Just used alone to vacuum a surface you can tell by sound whether it
is on high or low suction.
For reference, a drill press might be quieter.
the only tool i have that is louder is my planer
the other annoying thing about my shop vac is the exhaust comes out of
canister handles and is directed downward
i had a bucket of saw dust and the shop vac was next to the bucket
instant dust cloud
fwiw i use the saw dust in garden mulch
Is that working for you, the mulch?
My sister was a gardener, kind'a serious at one time. She claimed that
the fresh saw dust used as mulch should compost for a while before use.
Apparently the fresh sawdust takes nutrients from the soil and other
plants if it goes on fresh and has not begun to decompose.
I think it's the opposite. Fresh mulch uses up nitrogen as it
decomposes. I believe the reason you want greens included in mulch,
like green grass, is it's high in nitrogen. Sawdust, leaves and so on
has little nitrogen.
You shouldn't plant anything in compost until it is done decomposing.
You can use it as mulch around the top, but not in place of dirt in the
I use sawdust in my compost pile if I have too much. Takes a bit longer
to decompose than leaves, but the key is to mix it with green stuff.
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
it is worse than that
it can kill off plants if you apply it directly
she is right that it has to be mixed into compost and the compost let to
go thru the stages so that the ph normalizes and other things
but knowing this it can also be applied direct to paths to prevent growth
Exactly. They rob nitrogen from the plants they are near.
Compost like leaves or with them and once the mold starts
to break it down it is ready.
One thing to know - Walnut shavings, sawdust is dangers to a hoofed
animal life. It dissolves the hoofs. Best in the trash or a home
made fire log.
On 9/21/2015 1:28 PM, Leon wrote:
I've venture a guess that it involves paraffin wax. Google will tell you
enough to get started, you can get the wax from a store like Hobby Lobby.
Look for a 40% off coupon before you pay. They can scan the smart phone
so there's no need to print it.
On Monday, September 21, 2015 at 8:49:34 PM UTC-5, Martin Eastburn wrote:
After reading a lot about the trees that are members of the "juglans" family, I don't sand walnut without a mask, and toss ALL shavings in the garbage. To dangerous when in the form or sawdust or shavings.
For those not up on the subject, here's something to look at:
You have a cheap planer. You should get a spiral segmented job, then
your ears would only bleed from your shop vac. Then, spend $100 on a
Ridged Shop vac, and your ears will stop bleeding altogether. You
probably won't hear your cell phone ringing with both running, but that
I figure is a bonus...
You can get a spiral segmented job for under 2G's, up to 100's of G's.
If you want to impress the world, go for the 100G model, otherwise,
Grizzly sells one good enough, if not the best or most expensive ever made.
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
well it is fun to see the innards of various equipment
as for the opinions no big deal everyone has one
i realize now that until i watched the tear-down of that track saw i had
never even heard of a track saw so sometimes there really is no such thing
as bad press
it is a good idea but not in my budget
It's not for every one, nor is every Festool tool for me.
Food for thought on the bearings, and I did not watch the video again or
much past him commenting on the quality of the armature bearing/bushing
on the outer case.
In the automotive industry, vehicles, certainly American vehicles, with
manual transmissions use a brass/bronze bushing called a pilot
It pressed into the transmission end of the engine crankshaft. The input
shaft that comes out of the manual transmission protrudes through the
clutch pressure plate, clutch plate, and into that bushing/bearing.
When the vehicle is stopped and the engine is running the
bushing/bearing spins around the end of that transmission shaft. While
the majority of the time the vehicle is moving it often stops at stop
signs, traffic lights, and parking lots. In that instance the bearing/
bushing is spinning around the transmission shaft.
These bushings often last for tens of thousands of miles and are often
never replaced. Considering mileage and horse power of the average
vehicle compared to a Festool track saw and the fact that both the saw
and vehicle bearing are pretty much doing the same thing, positioning a
spinning shaft with out much of a load I think the Festool bearing will
be fine for another 40 years. ;~)
because you have to completely undo/redo every step. I don't recall if
you have to remove the pressure plate to get to the pilot bushing. It is
back in there 2~4 inches and you are working through a hole that is the
diameter of the input shaft. ;~)
It simply prevents the clutch plate from weighing down on the input
shaft and keeping it centered when the clutch is released. If the
input shaft were allowed to settle from the weight of the clutch plate
and the clutch plate went slightly off center there would be a heck of a
vibration when letting out on the clutch pedal. It has a slight load
then the transmission is disengaged by the clutch. The outer input
shaft bearing and the pilot bushing carry the weight of the clutch plate
and in put shaft when the clutch is released and the pilot bearing
continues to spin around the end of the input shaft.
On the saw 99.5 % of the load is carried by the bearings nearest the
gears. Those bearings have to be stout but the end cap bearing gets
very little load by comparison and why they are not over built. There
is not much leverage to apply much force on the end cap bearing.
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