Faulty Motor Switch?


One of my recent "new" machines (acquired at the same time as the Unisaw that was the subject of another thread several days ago, and which made the trip home just fine, thankyouverymuch) is an Invicta/Delta 22-650 (aka Rockwell RC-33) planer. 220V, 2HP, single phase motor.
While making space for these machines and setting them up, I turned on the planer for a few seconds, then flipped the switch to OFF. The planer kept running. It took a few more flips of the switch before the planer stopped. I repeated the process and had the same experience. It didn't do this when I tried it out at its old location, of course.
With the power disconnected I checked the switch terminals for continuity. So far I haven't been able to duplicate the problem--that is, to get continuity with the switch in the OFF position. (It's a double-pole switch, and both pairs of terminals behave like they ought to when probed with a meter.) Nothing looks or smells out of sorts with the switch.
Unless someone suggests another possiblity, I'm going to assume that the switch is faulty in some way that doesn't show up at low voltage/current, and that it simply needs replacing. Anything else I ought to check first?
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Sounds like a bad switch. No matter what, you might consider replacing it with a magnetic contactor type switch. $40 for a grizzly. The benefit is if power is interrupted, the machine will not continue running when power is restored, but will have to be started again.
Really nice for your Unisaw also, if it doesn't already have one.
Good luck.
Chuck
Chuck Taylor wrote:

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New switch. Probably just a case of dirty, if it checks out, but you really don't care for about six bucks, do you? The planer's a great one, should last for years. Don't bother to try and compare it to current offspring, they just don't measure up in material and workmanship.
Oh yes, if your switch is on the box like mine, it's a place that can use some compressed air once every so often. Damp dust can do what you experienced. I've seen it in motors stored where it can get damp.
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Chuck Taylor wrote:

It is probably ok.
Did you take the switch apart and look at it? If you can, you should, and you should clean and regrease it.
I had a similar thing happen to me and bought a replacement double pole switch because I wasn't sure I could depend on the switch to turn off. I took it apart and carefully examined it and nothing seemed wrong and it worked perfectly. Finally, I figured out that a splinter or piece of sawdust must have gotten into it and jambed it, and it fell out or I wiped it out when cleaning the switch and didn't see it. I've tried it many times since and it snaps on and off perfectly, so I think I can depend on it for another application.
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Replace it! It'll turn off just fine until you have some kind of emergency that needs it shut off RIGHT NOW, and that's when the dammed thing will stick in the ON position--with that loose shirt sleeve being pulled inexorably into the planer. :-)
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news:120220061633468709%> Replace it! It'll turn off just fine until you have some kind of

Disengaging the feed lever will take care of that.
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Food for thought . . I didn't follow the thread about the Unisaw, but sounds like they are new to you, while still fairly aged. Try this test; turn the planer on, then unplug it. Now do your continuity check and see if it opens when you turn it off. I suspect switch arcing & welding the contacts shut, which wouldn't show up in a test with no power at all. Just my $.25. Either way, as others suggest, a new switch isn't that much.
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On Sun, 12 Feb 2006 19:15:46 -0500, "Norman D. Crow"

That's right. The planer is eleven years old this month, according to the nameplate, and I believe the Unisaw was built in 1987.

I suspect the same. I may give that test a try for curiosity's sake, but with all fingers pointing at the switch, I'm going to replace it anyway.
Thanks to all for the replies.
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On Sun, 12 Feb 2006 19:44:51 -0600, Chuck Taylor

Make that 21 years old. Built in 1985.
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I had the same thing happen with my Delta Jointer. the power would not shut off. It was intermittent and the tech thought there was nothing wrong with it. I should have called Delta, but went to a local repair shop in Raleigh and got a replacement for abt $22
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wrote:

I see now that the switch is rated 10A/250V and the motor is rated 11.6A/240V. No idea how long it worked before failing.
My search so far of some local sources and the Grainger Web site hasn't turned up any replacement switches with the right form factor and rated better than 10A at 250V, although one clerk offered the helpful remark "I know they have them somewhere".
Any suggestions for another online source to check? The other Chuck's recommendation of a magnetic switch is a tempting one too.
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