Fasteners for a deck?

[Peter Bogiatzidis]

Hello,

I started rehabbing an old deck last season until life got in the way and stalled the project. Now that the weather is finally starting to break in the North East, the project is back on the front burner.

This is a partial repair and redesign. The plan is to not only replace the old decking, but also lower it by several inches to allow for a snow gap for a 6 ft. slider that opens up onto it, plus turn the original 16' X 20' footprint by 90 degrees, so that the 20' side is parallel to the house.

I plan on using the peel and stick deck protector wrap on the ledger, joist ends, and their top edges. As I understand it, that will allow me to use conventional hot dipped galvanized joist hangers and carriage bolts. However, when it comes to fasteners such as screws and pneumatic nails I'm a bit confused. Search results seem to indicate that I should use stainless steel screws with the newer ACQ or MCQ type PT lumber and that I shouldn't mix hardware and fastener types. For example, if I use stainless steel joist hangers, which would cost more than I can afford, that I'd have to use stainless steel nails or screws. If I stick with my plan of using the deck wrap and HDG hardware, what type of screws and pneumatic nails can I use?

I've used the HDG big box store deck screws on other projects in the past only to find that they rusted out. Since then, I've used the recommended green (as in color) deck screws on a small deck (step platform in front of an entry door) at the same house where the current deck in question is located and have seen those fail as well. That's why I'm concerned about choosing the correct fasteners this time around.

On a related note, any suggestions as to hidden deck fasteners? Any preferred brands? Grooved decking or conventional? From what I've read so far, it seems to me that I should stay clear of the ones that get driven it at an angle just in case a deck board needs to be replaced in the future as unlikely as that might be. BTW, there's about 2 ft. of clearance below the deck.

So, if anyone has any input as to what type of screws, pneumatic nails (for use in a Northern Tool framing nailer), or any other suggestions, I'd greatly appreciate your input.

Thanks in advance to those who post a reply to the group.

Peter.

[Leon]

Hello,

I started rehabbing an old deck last season until life got in the way and stalled the project. Now that the weather is finally starting to break in the North East, the project is back on the front burner.

This is a partial repair and redesign. The plan is to not only replace the old decking, but also lower it by several inches to allow for a snow gap for a 6 ft. slider that opens up onto it, plus turn the original 16' X 20' footprint by 90 degrees, so that the 20' side is parallel to the house.

I plan on using the peel and stick deck protector wrap on the ledger, joist ends, and their top edges. As I understand it, that will allow me to use conventional hot dipped galvanized joist hangers and carriage bolts. However, when it comes to fasteners such as screws and pneumatic nails I'm a bit confused. Search results seem to indicate that I should use stainless steel screws with the newer ACQ or MCQ type PT lumber and that I shouldn't mix hardware and fastener types. For example, if I use stainless steel joist hangers, which would cost more than I can afford, that I'd have to use stainless steel nails or screws. If I stick with my plan of using the deck wrap and HDG hardware, what type of screws and pneumatic nails can I use?

I've used the HDG big box store deck screws on other projects in the past only to find that they rusted out. Since then, I've used the recommended green (as in color) deck screws on a small deck (step platform in front of an entry door) at the same house where the current deck in question is located and have seen those fail as well. That's why I'm concerned about choosing the correct fasteners this time around.

On a related note, any suggestions as to hidden deck fasteners? Any preferred brands? Grooved decking or conventional? From what I've read so far, it seems to me that I should stay clear of the ones that get driven it at an angle just in case a deck board needs to be replaced in the future as unlikely as that might be. BTW, there's about 2 ft. of clearance below the deck.

So, if anyone has any input as to what type of screws, pneumatic nails (for use in a Northern Tool framing nailer), or any other suggestions, I'd greatly appreciate your input.

Thanks in advance to those who post a reply to the group.

You have to look for them but there are ACQ approved galvanized joist hangers and galvanized nails. IIRC the galvanization is more heavily coated on the hangers and fasteners. Most nail gun nails will show the ACQ designation on the galvanized nail boxes

[Gerald Ross]

snip

I would recommend SS deck screws for the actual decking. Preferably the star drive. Square drive would be my second choice. Other hardware galvanized with galvanized screws where they actually contact the hardware.

PT decking can be placed touching, as it will shrink as it dries. I made the mistake one one deck of using 3/15 space between boards and a few months later had half-inch gaps. Don't put side railing uprights down to the deck-- they make wonderful leaf catchers.

[Ed Ahern]

[J. Clarke]

Now why didn't I think of that?

[Larry Jaques]

I strongly recommend against using nails for a deck. Screws are a bit more expensive and take longer to install, but they're better fasteners.

I haven't heard anything about problems with stainless hardware in galv Simpson connectors. Almost all SS deck screws are 300 series which does not corrode with galv.

On a related note, any suggestions as to hidden deck fasteners? Any

I don't like hidden fasteners because it's hard to replace a middle board without ripping it and they're considerably more expensive than screws or nails.

I bought a Makita 18v lithium impactor kit for this very purpose. I replaced a Bosch 14.4v nicad Impactor that was 3 years old and going strong.

Type 17 self-tapping screws with torx heads are the best combination. Series 316 (most expensive), 305, or 304 (cheapest) in a trim head. They look like countersunk finish nails after installation.

Most of the work I've done is for seniors who say "I won't outlive the normal fasteners, so don't even -think- of using expensive stainless steel screws." so I use the GripRite Primeguard (epoxy coated) screws. They're not type-17. I drill pilot holes for anything within 3 inches of the end of a board.

is now carrying deck screws. Give them a holler. You can even get painted heads to match the wood. $$$$

Informative site with better pricing.

-- Ask not what the world needs. Ask what makes you come alive... then go do it. Because what the world needs is people who have come alive. -- Howard Thurman

[Lew Hodgett]

------------------------------- Don't waste your time with anything but 316S/S fasteners.

Since you are in the NE, Jamestown Distributors in R/I will be an excellent source.(I've used them for years)

S/S and galvanized pieces are not compatable, especially if around salt air.

Have fun.

BTW, search J/D for "deck screws", and you are in fat city.

Lew