ExtensionCordGauge

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Go to a 10 guage if over 50'.

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No. You will need at least a #8 wire. See below. http://www.elec-toolbox.com/calculators/voltdrop.htm

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1) Your calculator is goofy. #10 gives 3%, so I don't know why your calculator requires #8.
2) 3% is a code requirement for branch circuits. It has nothing to do with extension cords. As I indicated above, 100' is probably not a good choice, but if the extension cord is rated for 15a, it is legal.
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Thanks to all who posted. I need to seriously reconsider my power situation.
Do they make a cordless table saw? Just kidding.... :)

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stoutman wrote:

A gasoline generator with an 18 wheeler's muffler (to cut down the $#!!#%# noise) might be a solution. <g>
-- Mark
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Ten years ago I built a 6,000 sq. ft. building using a 120 volt, 1.5 HP contractor's saw. I used a 12 gauge Romex, 250' extension cord. It didn't melt. I am still using the same saw/motor. Not a recommendation, just a true anecdote.
-Doug

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bole2cant writes:

When I built my shop, I used a 50' and a 100' 10 gauge extension cord set to run 110 volt to my tools, including a table saw rated at 12 amps (Delta contractor's model). No problems with cord or saw. That was about 7 years ago, at least when I started.
Charlie Self
"In the final choice a soldier's pack is not so heavy as a prisoner's chains." Dwight D. Eisenhower
http://hometown.aol.com/charliediy/myhomepage/business.html
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I went through 24 notes and nobody asked what his line voltage was at the house. Mine cruises at around 126 from FPL and I can afford to lose some volts in a cord. If it is 110 you are already in trouble.
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On Fri, 12 Dec 2003 21:17:10 +0000, stoutman wrote:

If the cord is warm to the touch, it's gauge is too fine.
#10 wire extension would work, but it may be a bit stiff. If you are consistently in need of the 100' cord, consider putting in a separate outlet for the saw. A 20 amp circuit would work.
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Make you own cord from 10 GA Romex. Not to exceed 100 ft.

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