I did that years ago, and had no problem with the top. I had a
flooring supplier drop a line of teak flooring that was sawed up into
12"x12" squares, and I got the sample pieces.
Here is what I did: I bought a piece of tempered masonite and direct
glued the tiles to the masonite using a flooring mastic formulated for
wood flooring. (Read here: elastomeric adhesive with great
elasticity.) I used masonite because I wanted a surface that was
completely smooth and had a hard, closed surface to retard the glue set
No nails were used on that part. I cut a pieced of plywood
from the old scrap pile (probably B/C or soemthing like that) and then
glued and clamped the whole masonite/teak floor top down to the
plywood. Made a 2 1/2" rim to cover all the nasty edges from some
complimentary wood stained to match the teak as closely as possible.
Screwed it to a used black iron pedestal table stand that I got from a
It looks great. It works well an has not had any joint seperation or
buckling because it stays inside the house where it is in a relatively
stable environment. Before you put your planks down, leave them in the
house for about two weeks to stabilize. Also, if you do use the birch
underlay, then stabilize the surface with a good latex sealer (cheap,
cheap) before glueing and/or nailing and those planks will stay on for
a long time.