European cabinet hinges, without a jig

[Andy Jeffries]

Hi all,

I'm about to make a new workshop (tiny by most standards 8'x10') and will be having some cupboards in there with doors (it's such a step up from my

6'x8' brick shed with a worktop in it).

I want to fit normal 35mm "European-style" cabinet hinges and can see how they work (and have a 35mm forstner bit which is good news). However, is there an easy way of knowing where to position the 35mm hole and the "bracket" (for want of a better word)?

I know Rockler does a jig for the bracket portion of it (but I'm in the UK and it's not worth the international postage).

Bear in mind that I'm also a fairly newbie woodworker. I can have a go at trial and error until it fits OK, but I'd like to know if anyone knows exactly where to position them.

So my questions are along the lines of:

1) How far from the edge should the 35mm hole be? 2) How far from the edge should the bracket holes be?

I can obviously work out where to place them vertically, but it's those two positions I don't know. It may be obvious when I try (in about 3 weeks after shed^H^H^H^Hworkshop is delivered) but any pointers to the dimensions would be great.

Cheers,

Andy

[Swingman]

The jig is good if you don't have a drill press and use an electric drill, otherwise the drill press and fence is the better option.

The documentation that comes with the cabinet door hinges will have all the information that you need to place the 35mm hole for your application.

[Andy Jeffries]

I have a drill press, so that's good news.

OK, didn't know if they come with information or just assume if you're buying one you know how to fit it.

The ones I'm getting are:

Andy

[Rob V]

Should say in the instructions (i know mine did) But it may differ w/ each manufacture as well as size.

Once you know - just make your own jig.

[Andy Jeffries]

That's the plan, I just know what Screwfix are like and think I'm going to get a hinge in a plastic bag with no instructions. No problem with that except for working out the spacing...

Cheers,

Andy

[joeljcarver]

The supplier of the hardware should have inexpensive jigs (usually free with a decent sized order). If you can't get any, here are the dimensions:

The center of the hole is 27/32" from the edge.

With full or half overlay, the center of the holes are 1 7/16" from the edge.

[Swingman]

It's a piece o' cake then.

Once you find the correct distance of the 35mm hole from the edge, set a fence so the hole will be drilled at that distance from the edge of the door when held against the fence.

Then pencil a mark, on the fence, to the right and left of the drill bit for your vertical placement of the hinge in relation to the cabinet sides, and you can do all your doors quickly easily without fuss, muss or jig.

Once set, don't move the fence! ;)

This distance from the edge is a critical distance and you must determine this before you proceed. Unfortunately, it changes with each type of hinge, and sometimes with the way that particular hinge will be used.

A phone call or two will have to be made if the dimensions are not provided in the packaging.

[Andy Jeffries]

Good tip, ta :-)

OK, thanks for your help.

Cheers,

Andy

[Andy Jeffries]

My order definitely won't be decent sized, it's only for a few cabinets in my workshop - I'm not a kitchen fitter by trade.

That's great. Thanks. If they don't come with instructions (as others suggest they should) then I'll at least use these as a starting point to tweak from.

Cheers,

Andy

[Swingman]

Just to be on the safe side, I'd double check those dimensions with your supplier. While they may well be right, being wrong can undo a lot of work on cabinet doors, and that can be expen$ive.

[Andy Jeffries]

It's OK - I'm talking plywood doors (think Norm's "Garage Workshop"

2-parter, not a fancy Oak doored kitchen). They're literally just going to be rectangular pieces of plywood.

It's just as a newbie I know I can still chomp through a fair through cuts if I don't have a sensible starting point.

Cheers,

Andy

[Leon]

I always use the fence and drill press method that Swingman has mentioned and I always test the fit on a scrap to check clearance. If you do not properly space the large hole from the edge, you may not be able to open or close the door as that edge of the door will rub the cabinet face frame. Also, you can use a common 1-3/8" Forstner bit which can typically be cheaper than the "special" 35mm bit.

[Jack Hoying]

Andy, I made a table for my drill press to drill hinge holes. It's a 36" wide x

20" deep sheet of 3/4" ply with a permanent fence and I clamp it to the regular small drill press table. On the fence, I have a couple spring loaded hinges that I can flip down, which work as stops for the doors. That way, I get my hinges consistent distances from the ends of the doors. Jack