ebonizing maple

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Can anyone offer some help on the best method(s) for ebonizing maple? If you've actually done this, how deeply does the ebonizing method you used penetrate?
tia,
jc
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You might dissolve some steel wool in vinegar and try on a piece of maple scrap.
Smitty
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wrote:

I don't think this will work on maple, I could be wrong though. There are two ways of creating an "ebonized" finish in woods like walnut and oak - chemical reaction and dye. By dissolving shreaded steel wool in white vinegar, wait until it dissolves, and "painting" this on the wood, a chemical reaction takes place between the iron and the tannin in the wood resulting in a dark purple, dark brown, or black color (actual color depends upon species of wood and its tannin content). The other way is to stain the wood with a dye. There are several things that a google search revealed, shoe polish, India ink, commercial stains, and what I use for small projects - a Marks-A-Lot permenent marker. You might even be able to use a fabric dye (Ritz) dissolved in alcohol. The best resules will be from a non-pigmented dye/stain (a liquid that has no solid particles - everything is dissolved). This will penetrate further into the wood that a stain that has pigment particles that will tend to be trapped on the surface of the wood.
So to specificly answer your question - I've used the steel wool/vinegar method on walnut and didn't think it was dark enough. It raised the grain but went deep enough that I could sand the fuzzies down with 320 and did not sand through the color. The marker worked best giving aa deep black color. Since the marker used alcohol it raised the grain much less, but I still sanded and did not go through the color. Sorry I don't have better recomendations for maple. Can you try what we've mentioned on scraps and report back to the list?
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wrote:

Can you try what we've mentioned on scraps and report back to the list?
You can bet on it ;-)
jc
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wrote:

You might dissolve some steel wool in vinegar and try on a piece of maple scrap.
Smitty
I think that only works on Oak.
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I've gotten excellent results on several species of wood with black leather dye. Any shoe repair shop should be able to provide it.
Joel
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The ferrous acetate method works only on high-tannin content woods, as mentioned. Some have added tannin with tea baths and then the acetate. Works like nothing on hard maple.
Dye is the answer, and water-based my preference, so it gets a bit farther in before its ride evaporates. You can still see the grain through two coats, but it is black. Not 100-grit black, but two strokes of 320 deep maybe.
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Steel wool + vinegar will often give you a black stain on maple or softwoods too. What you're seeing is black ferrous oxide, rather than the acetates or tannates. It's usable on indoor work (try it first), but has a risk of turning brown (ferric oxide / red rust) if it's kept wet.
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wrote:

Thanks Andy. This particular use doesn't stand much chance of getting wet. I'm going to try it and some other suggestions as well.
jc
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In that case, keep your eyes open for a copy of Sam Allen's "Classic Finishing Techniques"
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George,
Since I'm going for less penetration, would alcohol based dye be better in your opinion?
jc
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Makes sense. The alcohol would evaporate faster. I've found alcohol dyes to be fairly shallow, though better than pigment stains.
It's a push/pull if you don't do a fuzz set and sand prior to application, because you'll have to defuzz, taking off the shallow color. I still like two coats.
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Wed, Jan 16, 2008, 2:14am (EST+5) snipped-for-privacy@valid.com (Joe) do5th query: Can anyone offer some help on the best method(s) for ebonizing maple? <snip>
Google. Eboize wood.
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(Joe) do5th query:

For pete's sake JOAT, is that the only friggin answer you give???? Usenet is a CONVERSATION! You must be a real delight around the water cooler. If everything all anyone wants is to google, the rec wouldn't be here. For someone who posts "just dags" as much as you do, a reasonable thinking person would wonder why you enable everyone's googling disability by making all your 'inspiration' posts. And before you even think it, I'm not saying I don't like those. To the contrary, I've found some useful stuff there. The point is that your constant dags answers in that context come off as being extremely hypocritical.
If you don't have a method THAT YOU'VE TRIED and like, keep your dags to yourself.
sheesh.
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Wed, Jan 16, 2008, 5:42pm (EST+5) snipped-for-privacy@valid.com (Joe) did posteth converzation instructions thusly: For pete's sake JOAT, is that the only friggin answer you give???? Usenet is a CONVERSATION! <snip> If you don't have a method THAT YOU'VE TRIED and like, keep your dags to yourself.
You saning google doesn't work any more?: It worked awhile ago.
OK, ink. Happy Sunshine? Now, where's you'res?
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tried to type, but failed....He also tried to address the points made, but failed at that too.
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Wed, Jan 16, 2008, 10:31pm (EST+5) snipped-for-privacy@valid.com (Joe) doth mumble:
tried to address the points made, but failed at that too.
You mean google still works? Oh, I'm so confused. LMAO The point as I understood it was something that would ebonize maple, right? Which appeared to be that you didn't want to google. OK, I already replied ink. If you like that sort of thing, a lot of people swear by that method. Of course, you do have to use black ink, not blue, or red, or green, or purple, or whatever. What's not to the point on that? I guees you want an ebonized dog.
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tried to type, but failed....He also

I've seen that asked here a few time. I have the opposite problem. I have 50 bd. ft. of ebony and want a light colored wood instead. Can I mapleize the ebony? Will maple stain work? Bleach?
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If you'll send it to me (shipping paid), I'll run it through my transformerizer and send you the mapleized ebony. Will also transfomerize diamonds to graphite for a small fee.
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Gaboon or Macassar? Where do you live? May be able to work a trade. Volume-based, of course ;-)
Jc
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