I'd like to add an accent piece to a piece of furniture I'm building
and want to ebonize a piece of Maple (though I suppose it doesn't have
to be Maple, I just want it to be black). I've read that dye stains
will be better for doing this. I picked up a can of Minwax "Wood
Finish" oil based stain, but can't seem to determine if it is dye or
pigment stain. Does anyone know how I can tell. Any other comments
on the process would also be appreciated.
I agree. I don't think Minwax make a dye product.
For Black, I have had better luck with Behlen's Solar Lux which is
alcohol base. It seems to penetrate better, and is about $11 - $12
buck a bottle.
When I use the Behlens for finish, I thin it quite a bit. But for
black as possible, use it straight.
Almost all woodturners yearn to ebonize some kind of wood for finials,
knobs, caps, and decorations of all manner. Right now, I think the
preferred method is real India Ink from the art or office supply
store. This is really a prevalent method since almost no one can find
the good ebony at a fair price, and the Macassar (sp?) has a tendency
to have brown streaks in it. So wood is saturatated in the ink,
sanded after grain raising, then saturated again. A piece of wood
done this way actually looks like ebony.
For me... I cheat. On something of size I would hit the accent piece
with black laquer so I could get it dead black, and if my final finsh
is gloss, I am on my way. If it is satin, out comes the steel wool to
knock off the shine.
Thu, Apr 19, 2007, 3:21pm (EDT-3) email@example.com (Doug) doth come in
<snip> want to ebonize a piece of Maple <snip>. I picked up a can of
Minwax "Wood Finish" oil based stain, but can't seem to determine if it
is dye or pigment stain. Does anyone know how I can tell. <snip>
Sounds likea waste of good maple to me, but it's your wood.
Yes, someone knows. The manufacturer. That's the reason they put
the 1-800 number on the can, so you can get answers about their
products. Or did they leave it off yours?
I have anal glaucoma. I can't see my ass going to work today.
I have a whole oak family room suite to ebonize and I have done some testing
in preparation. I chose oak due to the pronounced grain structure so that
the texture would still come through the finish. I used water based black
aniline dye from woodcraft mixed at the recommended strength. I applied it
liberally and let it dry completely. I followed that with some water based
Minwax black stain that I had mixed at Home Depot. I got this plan from Bob
Flexner's book. My test have come out very well and more importantly to the
satisfaction of my customer.
Most of the common "yellow can" Minwax finishes do contain some pigment,
often contain dye as well, and a few contain only dye. If you want to check
a can you've already purchased, just open it and stir up from the bottom
with a small stick. If it contains pigment some will stick to the stick
and you will be able to see it.
Make it as simple as possible, but no simpler.
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org
Look for something you don't have to stir, and it'll be a dye. Pigment is
added as particulates, and has a tendency to settle in the can and seek the
pores in the wood. Easy to tell which is which by what they leave behind on
a piece of white paper.
Ebonizing by dye would be fine with cherry, soft maple or birch, or if you
just need color over durability, basswood. Aniline dyes, RIT fabric dyes,
India ink are all pretty common ways of going about it.
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