DW735 Snipe adjustment

Anyone know how to adjust this unit for snipe? The book has nothing on an adjustment. I ran a 2 foot long, 6" wide piece of pine thru it so support is not a problem and still get about 3" on each end.
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i have the same planer and when i got snipe it was because i was trying to take too light of a cut im not sure how much your taking off but try a little heaver cut see if that helps also how thin of a board are you cutting ?
<jditto> wrote in message

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13/16" thick, was trying to take it down 1/32"
wrote:

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<jditto> wrote in message

The optional feed tables, correctly set up, are supposed to help, but I was still getting a little snipe. I wanted zero snipe, so I shimmed the feed rollers, and now snipe is nonexistant. I wish they had an adjustment for the rollers, but they don't.
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Please post details of how/where you shimmed, shim size, etc. I'm not having snipe problems on my 735, but I'd like to know what to do should they appear.
TIA...
-- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
For a copy of my TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter, send email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com
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On Thu, 08 Apr 2004 03:54:22 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@milmac.com (Doug Miller) wrote:

I second this request, details please. I was able to adjust the optional tables to mostly eliminate the snipe, but would like to see if there is a better way. Thanks,
Zeke
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(Doug Miller)

O.K., if you raise the heightof the cutter unit all the way up and look at the roller ends, you'll see that the roller bearing blocks are held in with a bracket and two screws. The bracket sorta looks like this:
|--------------------| | | <------ Bearing block |_______________| -------------\___________/--------------- <------- Bracket
The bracket has a dip in the middle, and the bearing block only makes contact with this bracket at the ends of the dip. Those contact points are what I wanted to shim, to raise the rollers up a little bit. Why? I figured that if your making light cuts, the pressure of the deflecting roller rubber is enough to pull the wood through; you don't need the springs with their high pressure distorting the base and causing snipe. The shims work really great and of course if you're taking deeper cuts the spring come into play.
Alright, nothing was taken apart, and I did one roller at a time. Crank the cutter head all the way up, and put blocks of wood underneath the center of one roller. Lower the cutterhead and watch the bearing blocks lift off the retaining bracket. When they seem to "top out", stop lowering. You can now shim the two rollerblocks. I had .020 sheet aluminum laying around that I bought from the borg, so I used that. I cut out small rectangles that fit the width of the bearing block. Then with a pair of needlenose pliers, bend a 90 tab at one end, making sure the tab is small enough to slide between the bearing block and retaining bracket. Then bend a 45 tab at the other end, making sure that the remaining shim is slightly wider than the retaining bracket. Insert the shim, 90 tab first, and let it lay on the bracket. Then do the other bracket. Now raise the cutterhead, and the shims will be sandwiched between the bearing block and bracket. Now bend the 45 to a 90 with a screwdriver. Repeat for the other roller.
Yes, the shims aren't held in that well when the bearing block loses contact with them (when taking deep cuts), but mine haven't fallen out yet. If someone can suggest a more elegant idea, let us know!
Mark
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Thanks for the tip Mark. I would guess that a dab of silicone would hold the shims in place.
On Thu, 08 Apr 2004 17:31:55 GMT, "Mark Howell"

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