Dust Collector Pipe Size

I have recently purchased a Delta 1 1/2 HP Dust Collector. It has two 4" outlet ports off of it. One is going directly to my unisaw, planer and jointer that are fairly close by. I wanted to run an overhead pipe about 24' away for the radial arm, band saw and chop saw etc. What size pipe should I use for this run, realizing that I will likely want to go down in size for the drop downs to the different tools? I plan to use metal pipe so I don't have to get into that whole ground or not ground discussion!
I was also looking at buying a Veritus Cyclone lid to use in the table saw run. What is the general opnion of this? Is it worth it?
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First, buy "Woodshop Dust Control" by Sandor Nagyszalanczy. This is a very comprehensive book that deals with just about every question you'll have (only $15.37 at amazon.com).
Anyway, I have the Veritas cyclone lid and it works great. But, you don't really need it so much for the table saw, but for the jointer and planer it is a must-have, IMO. Just the other day I was planing and jointing about 125 board feet of ash and I filled up a 30 gallon trash can 1.5 times. That's a lot of dust/shavings that I won't have to dump out of my dust collector.
I'm planning a ductwork system which will have a 5" main line with a 4" drop to the cyclone lid and a flex hose with quick disconnect for the tablesaw, jointer and planer. I'll then have more 5" main line with separate 4" drops for the lathe, chop saw, router (reduced to 2.5" at the cabinet), bandsaw and a floor sweep. I calculated static pressure drops, etc. for all of this and should be fine for my 1.5 hp Jet dust collector. The linear distance of the entire main line is only about 25 feet and each drop is about 6 feet, max. With blast gates, the air flow should be pretty good. Also, no matter what you read using PVC for the ductwork is fine, and you don't need to ground it. There is a good scientific evaluation of this problem somewhere on the net (DAGS) that makes it very clear.
Mike
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here's the link:
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/rodec/woodworking/articles/DC_myths.html
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Roy,
This is exactly what I did. I have a Grizz 2 HP with two 4" dust outlets. I run one through a cyclone lid to the jointer and TS and the other across the top of the garage to the bandsaw, planer, and miter saw. I used 4" ducting from Lowes (30 gauge galvanized). This setup works great. Most would tell you that 5" would be much better, but this is just a short term prototype and it works well enough that I won't be replacing it any time soon.
Montyhp

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I built my own separator lid with the information below. Cost about 1/2 of a lid and works better. When I'm cutting wood, all of the dust will accumulate in the can. When I decide to cut some plastic or aluminum,I just reroute the cuttings to a separate can by putting a tube on the inside of the separator can lid and a 5 gallon bucket to route it into This way I can still dump the saw dust in the garden without the other shavings.
As for the floor sweep. I wouldn't own one. Most WW'ers will maker their shop as dust free as possible and then at the end of the day, sweep the overflow of dust to the floor sweep where it is stirred up into the air. I just put a shop vac wand on my DC line and sweep up.
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On 5 Dec 2003 12:03:58 -0800, snipped-for-privacy@jenarae.com (Roy Warren) wrote:

6"if you can. you loose far less flow. I use 6" to as close as i can to my machines. 5" would be ok 4" you will start loosing flow.

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Absolutely buy the cyclone lid. I bought one with my penn state 1 1/2hp and have never had to empty the bags. The bags have built up a decent dust cake and still no blow through and I've never had to remove/empty the bags. If you want to avoid the mess/hassle of handling dust-laden bags, this is the way to go.
While you're at it, get the Long Ranger, RF remote switch for the DC. You'll thank yourself later.
Joe

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I don't have to remember where I left my remote each day I go into my shop, nor do I have to worry about the battary going dead. My DC goes on when ever I turn on any tool I use., as indicated below.
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wrote:

absolutely DONT buy the separator lid. Make it. Its not difficult and turns out to be much cheaper. If you dont want to go as far as Joe has, simply cobble up a piece of plywood cut into a circle approx 2" larger than the diameter of your collector can. I use a metal 30 gal. Tape up some foam weather strip around the brim of the can. sit the lid on top and youre good to go.
TomL
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now for 19.95. That is a tough price to compete with.
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2 pvc pipes and some scrap plywood. Could that cost more than 10 bucks or so? Additionally, that plastic stuff they make these things out of just can't be as sturdy and durable as pvc and plywood. Also, if you ever plan on upgrading to 5" pipe or if you're using 5" pipe now, that separator lid becomes somewhat useless. Build it yourself and cut the plywood oversize and you can use your home made separator lid on a 55 gal can if the need arises. Oh yeah, one other thing......add the 6 bucks shipping charge and youve gone from 20 bucks to 26.
TomL

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Everyone seem to LOVE these seperator lids...
. Well I( have 2 DC...a small 1 Hp Penn State unit that handles my Planer and Occ Sander along with my router table... and a 2 Hp Griz that handles the Table saw stationary sander and other tools...
The 2 "lids" that I have used just do not seem to work all that well wilth the 2 Hp Griz... lost a good bit of air flow but the DC still functions ..
BUT when the metal trash can itself fills up about 1/4 of the way THEN everything (all new dust etc) just flows into the bags... ...
I just find that I have to empty the 1/4 filled trash can every other day ,,, Or simply remove the trash can and empty the bags every month or so....and get a little more air flow out of the system...
I am Not a Big fan of these seperator lids..
Bob Griffiths
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2 hp dc's and larger just have too much airflow to use a separator lid. a 3hp 14" dc would suck the can clean (G)
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