The other "trick" many pro's use (more on ceilings than walls, but it's also possible) is to make the joint in between the main joists and fasten to a ledger that is 1/8" or so shy of the field. Then have a nice area in which to make the joint and fill to make the final surface flat.
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Probably. It may prove to be a very bad idea, but at least I'll be able to move any mounted tools about at will.
Updates in 12 months.
Nah, what they try to sell you here in AZ is the opposite of a swamp - a lot where there is no local water utility, you have to truck in your water, no sewers, and the soil doesn't perc, so you have use an "alternative septic" system. If you're lucky, you get electric and phone to the lot line.
Don't laugh, developers in NW Arizona are filing plans for developments close to where the new Hoover Dam bypass is going to be, where the water supply will be "truck in your own". They expect to sell a lot of less expensive houses to people who are tired of Las Vegas real estate prices and don't mind trading the commute for a cheaper house.
Jerry
Using 8' or 12' sheets, an average wall will result in what? One butt joint on an average wall vs. one EVERY four feet if laid on vertically?
The reason, I was told, that the drywall is laid horizontally is that the joints at 4' high, etc. will not show up to the eye when you scan the room. Sort of like the reason to cut your half tiles (or less) towards the back corners of the tile field rather than front and/or center.
Maybe I missed it but another good reason to DO THE CEILING now is simply this: What are you going to do once you hang cabinets, racks, pegboard, etc. on the walls and THEN decide to go ahead and put in the ceiling. Do it now! You really don't want to have to vacate that shop for the job, do you?
Hell, my wife and I have decided to make our last stand here at the home we build 30+ years ago rather than pack and move all our "stuff." Let the kids worry about it after we're gone. That'll teach em!
The walls of most rooms are between 12 and 16 feet, which only translates to two or three joints when the sheets are hung vertically.
In any case, we hung sheets vertically on the 28' wall of our garage, and I can't see any waviness anywhere. That's the advantage of having the tapered seams where the sheets meet. You can get a perfectly flat joint if you take your time when taping.
I agree, I'd do the ceiling first, even if that's all you can afford to do right now. It's much easier to move junk off to the side to do a wall than it would be to move everything around to get to the ceiling.
Anthony
true, it IS harder to get a smooth joint on a butt joint, however, this is offset with three things:
1) The long running joints are basically at waist height...easy to get at without stretching and stooping. Bad enough that you need to do that in the corners, no sense doing it every 4' down the length of the wall, too. 2) Along the same lines, the 4' vertical joints can be done by stooping just once and getting on the drywallers bench just once. Most people have enough of a wingspan to handle reaching 4' without a lot of twisting. 3) The vertical joints are not as noticeable, in general, as horizontal joints, all other things being equal...that is that you make good joints.Final tip for a mudded wall...use a skim coat after you think you're done...just think the crap out of the mud...think thick paint...and slap it on, followed by a WIDE trowel. When I've done this, don't try to work ONto a wet skim coat. Start in a corner and work as far down the wall as possible. Then go to the next corner and do the same thing, going the same direction...and so on around the room. Next day, go the other way around. Prime and paint.
Luck
Mike
Standard ceiling heights aren't such a bad reach for the average height person. It's less work as well, to reach and stoop to do factory joints than it is to do butt joints. In the end you'll be doing more stooping and reaching with butt joints than with factory joints.
You have to stoop for every joint - and you have to do all of the extra work of feathering out every one of those butt joints. I've seen a lot of sheetrock hung horizontally, and most times the butt joints show. It's not worth taking the extra time and effort required to work those butt joints when you can simply hang it vertically and deal with (almost) all factory joints.
Which would be an arugment in favor or hanging it vertically and having all vertical joints without horizontal joints.
I've never tried this and it sounds like more work than just applying a good primer coat before painting, but I'll bet it does a nice job of creating a consistent finish on the rock so that paint does not telegraph where the spackle is.
My uncle taught me how to drywall and tape the joints over 40 years ago. He always preferred to hang the sheets vertically with as many factory joints as could be made, then tape and mud the joints with increasing width layers, feathering the edges wider with each layer. The non-factory edges had to be feathered wider during the taping process to make them look right, so he tried to minimize the number of them because they took a bit longer to do. After each layer of mud dried he would use a taping knife to scrape off any high spots or bumps before applying another layer of mud. Two or sometimes three layers was all that was usually necessary for good results. His final "sanding" wasn't sanding at all. He never used sandpaper. He used a large damp sponge to wipe off and smooth any remaining bumps and surface imperfections. While doing this on the seams he also wiped across the whole surface of the drywall and not just the joint areas. By doing this, the whole wall surface became coated with a thin smooth layer of drywall mud, which reduced the differences in texture between the paper sheetrock surface and the seams, making them even less visible after the walls were painted. He never used sandpaper, his finished walls always looked great, and he never had any plaster dust to clean up.
Charley
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