Even Norm has wooden shop walls. <G>
Seriously, though... Finishing area walls would probably be best
covered with fireproof material. Even a relatively clean shop is going
to have shavings, scraps, dust, and stored stock. Possibly enough fuel
to make the actual wall covering irrelevant during an unattended fire.
I'll agree that it's not work losing sleep over. If the hazards of a
wood wall covering bothers you more than drywall, than drywall it should be.
> Although I didn't highlight it, I'm curious to get people's input on
> the electrical. One thing to keep in mind is that here in the Chicago
> area, I've got to run everything in metal conduit, so running wire
> inside the walls isn't quite as easy as drilling some holes and
> pulling romex through.
Ah yes, the infamous Chicago code.
You can run BX in the walls. It is flexible, metal armored cable.
Ability to run conduit not required.
Yes it is more expensive than romex, but you are only talking about
Buy it by the full box, from an electrical supply house.
Buying cut lengths of wire is a good way to go broke in a hurry.
Try working up a total electrical package (BX cable, boxes, wiring
devices, etc) and giving it to an electrical supply house.
Might get a package price.
Per our local amendment: "All new interior electrical installations
shall be piped in rigid or EMT or (minimum) 1/2" Greenfield whips up
to 6'0" as needed. (BX armored cable is not permitted).".
So, no replacing the bulk of the conduit with Greenfield or any other
> Per our local amendment: "All new interior electrical installations
> shall be piped in rigid or EMT or (minimum) 1/2" Greenfield whips up
> to 6'0" as needed. (BX armored cable is not permitted).".
> So, no replacing the bulk of the conduit with Greenfield or any other
> flexible conduit.
The ghost of Hogan is still alive and well I see.
Got any buddies that are in the electrical business?
That's being paranoid to a fault. In a frame building, the wall surface
itself is pretty immaterial.
If one is really concerned w/ a fire hazard in a shop, the most
important areas are a fire-resistant storage area for flammables and
passive sprinkler systems plus detection systems ideally connected to
Last time I did the walls in my shop I used OSB. Fairly cheap but provided a
lot of wall space without having to look for studs when hanging things up.
run your wire on the outside in a conduit and it should be a snap.
My 2 cents.
I echo what Lew said. Plywood, T&G, even wafer board. We did our garage in
drywall a few years
ago, stuck in a bunch of circuits in, etc, for all the power tools. We even air
conditioned it, so
it is actually a shop, not a garage.Only vehicles ever in it were during the
hurricane a couple of
years ago (stacking power tools to make enough room was NOT fun).
Drywall was a mistake. I will have some sort of solid siding for the next (and
last) shop. This
will be the ultimate shop, as I intend to spend my retirement in it. The cost
will be a bit more
than with drywall, but since I expect to use it for another 20 years, it will be
worth it. Nothing
fancy, but someplace with all the wiring hidden, and white painted ply or T&G or
wafer board so I
can hang something where ever I darn well please. I do this with the current
shop, but sometimes it
entails head scratching and finding the darn stud sensor.
If I was hanging things on a regular basis, I'd probably find a couple
studs and discretely mark their location on the wall. (Up near the
cieling or down near the floor. Just a 1/2" line on each side of the
stud gives you something to go off of, especially if you know your stud
Wonder if we could get an issue of some magazine like "Better Homes and
Gardens" to publish a room where blue chalk lines 16 inch on center are
part of the decor. :-)
Wise is the man who attempts to answer his question before asking it.
To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm
I'm in the process of finishing up my new shop. At the suggestion of a
local contractor (cousin through marriage), I covered the interior
walls with OSB (oriented strand board) smooth side out.
The 7/16" OSB was about half the price of 1/2" drywall at the local
borg. With a little care, the seams tend to disappear after painting.
For the one or two seams that were a little stubborn, a some paintable
caulk before painting took care of them.
Well, that's what worked for me, anyway. The added benefit is that I
don't have to worry about poking boards through the drywall.
I don't know what all the fuss about drywall is. Every shop I have had was
drywall and the next one will be too. No problems hanging anything on the
walls since the invention of the stud sensor. I have a couple friends that
put up wafer board. It took tons of primer to seal it, and the glues and
resin still sneak through in places. Plus drywall is a bit quieter than
wafer board. It seems to me their shops echo the noise off the walls more
I'm with Greg.
I have drywall and I like having a "finished" space to work in. I *know*
that my studs as 16" O/C because I put them there. They are easy to find
because they are on one side or the other of every outlet... thre wraps of
the knuckles and I know exactly where a stud is.
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
I did my shop with drywall. Since it was not an occupied space and
separate from the main house, I used 3/8" drywall all around to make
the job a little easier. However, check your codes, mine allowed it.
Ceiling first so that you don't have to match up to any crooked walls
and probably takes movement without cracking better. Make a couple of
T-bars, or rent a lift.
Horizontal actually easier, in my opinion, you can rig some step on
lifts to close the seams, simple levers on blocks, although they sell
or rent some devices that do that. I like working that horizontal
seam four foot high, easier than working a lot of top to bottom seams.
Why would you not put the electrical in first?
The drywall was primarily to seal the insulation. After finished I
installed a bunch of framed sections of perf board to hang stuff on.
The drywall has held up well, despite my propensity to swing boards
and tools into it. Haven't punched any holes yet.
This from an individual who hates floating drywall but can do it when
I'd stick with drywall. If you do poke something through it, it is
easy to patch. Also provides more fire protection than OSB. Also less
flamable surface to catch on fire to begin with.
Take the time and do the electrical first. That way it won't be in
the way when you want to hang cabinets, etc.
Horizontal on the walls is better, IMHO.
Just to make things a little more complicated, some people use double
thick drywall. The outer sheet is glued to the inner sheet so there are
I'd do the ceiling first. I get the feeling that you want to get
the walls done so you can move in sooner. That means you'd have to
move out to do the ceiling.
As other's have mentioned, your options are basically drywall, plywood,
or T&G boards.
I wouldn't suggest pegboard over bare insulation, since there would be
lots of holes leaving the flammable vapor barrier exposed. I doubt it
would meet code if you ever had the house inspected (for selling, or
The nice thing about drywall is it's forgiving. If your cuts are less
than perfect, or your walls are out of square, you can fix it all up
during the taping stage. It's also a lot easier to fix later if you need
to cut a hole and patch it later, or if you relocate some shelving and
need to patch the screw holes left behind. Regardless of what you
install, you WILL damage it at some point, so repairs are something to
I used T&G for many of our ceilings, more for the appearance than the
strength or durability. It's less likely to be damaged on the ceiling
than it would be on the walls. However, you might want to check your
local codes. Many areas require a layer of drywall under T&G paneling, so
you might just be doubling your costs.
Also, keep in mind you can cut holes for electrical boxes or to fit
around beams or other projections easily in drywall. Just a utility knife
and/or a handheld drywall saw. If your measurements are off by a 1/4" or
so, you can patch it up during the taping stage. With T&G and plywood,
you'll have to be a lot more precise with your measurements and cuts. A
"mistake" will be there forever, or you'll have to recut a new sheet.
As for hanging things on the wall, most items like shelves or cabinets
will span more than a couple of stud bays anyway. Just use a studfinder
to locate the stud to screw the item to the wall. For smaller items
(sawhorses, extension cord reels, etc.) I like to make "racks" (kind of
like custom made coat hangers) and screw the rack to the wall, then hang
my items on the rack.
My wife and I drywalled our 24x28 garage, as well as all of the walls in
our house. It's really not that hard once you've hung a few sheets. I
prefer screws over nails, every 6" around the edges, and every 12" in the
middle of the sheets (into the studs, of course).
Oh, and some drywall is white on both sides... :) Put the side with the
tapered edges out. :)
If you're installing more than a few sheets, I recommend contacting a
drywall supplier and have them deliver. Drywall is heavy and they can
deliver it right into the room you're working on. Sure beats loading it
onto the cart at the home center, loading it in the truck in the parking
lot, and unloading it when you get home. Unless you want the exercise,
save your strength for hanging the drywall. You can usually get lower
prices by buying in volume too.
I've done it both ways and haven't noticed much difference. The theory is
the wall sheets help support the ceiling sheets. But with a 24'x28'
ceiling, there are lots of edges that aren't supported by the walls. I
think the more important issue is proper backing. Before you hang the
walls or the ceilings, install blocking anywhere you think you'll need to
screw up a sheet of drywall (or nail T&G, or plywood).
We hung ALL of our drywall vertically. I personally think it results in a
stronger installation, since all drywall edges are supported by studs and
top/bottom plates. It makes taping a little more interesting, climbing up
and down the ladder, but we hung 14' sheets vertically in our house and
it wasn't that big of a deal. Climb the ladder, tape the upper half, then
come down and tape the lower half. You have to climb up to hit all the
nail holes and the corner joints around the ceiling anyway, so it's not
that much difference.
The primary advantage of the horizontal approach is it results in less
"waviness" as you look across a long stretch of wall. You also don't end
up with any seam bumps when hanging cabinets or shelving. But like I
said, we did all our sheets vertically, and didn't notice problems with
either of those issues.
It would be better to run the electrical in the wall, as any exposed
conduit is going to collect dust, get in the way of installing cabinets
and whatnot, and be more vulnerable to damage. But, since you've already
insulated, it may be too late to consider that.
You mentioned you are required to have conduit in your area. Is PVC
conduit allowed? It's easy to work with, and non-conductive. You could
install the conduit in the walls now, and put the actual wiring in later
when time and money allows.
With proper backing for the sheet edges, no big deal at all.
Find a source for 3/8" roughsaw plywood siding. It goes
by the name "roughtex" in some circles. This makes an
excellent and tough wall for a shop.
You can paint it, but it looks find left natural.
T&G pine is also another method but it's slower to
I would surface mount ALL electrical in conduit.
I used plastic conduit and stranded wire. Much easier
to deal with and it goes up quick.
I put up drywall, but that is your call. I suggest that for lighting,
be sure and consider track lights over where you think your tools will
be. If you add more power tools you can add to your tracks and put
light exactly where you want it. I used halogens over the work bench
and finally I could read my dimensions even in winter when it was dark
I also suggest you do the ceiling first. I like the idea of OSB. I
used drywall and used pegboard liberally. I hate having to look for a
tool and know I have it but can't find it.
Bill in New Mexico
I found a reasonable source for slatwall on craigslist and will be using
that to surface my shop when it gets finished in a couple of months.
It's normally exorbitant when compared to drywall. With the craigslist
deal it was merely expensive.
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