I want to refinish (sand a little, remove some stains) a kitchen
island butcher block top. What is the normal drying time with mineral
oil to put it back in use? Or walnut oil if anyone has ever used it.
Don't want to start this and have the island out of service for wife's
Christmas company. That would be a bad move.
I am not aware of mineral oil catalyzing as does boiled linseed oil or
whatever. An off-the-cuff guess based on it's use by me on turned
bowls suggests application, followed by a rubdown. Reapply until the
wood has absorbed all that it will. Then buff it out.
If it seems insufficient, you could redo again after the Holidays.
You should have plenty of leftovers to eat.
I could be completely in error, however... If it ends up too greasy,
you could cover it with a festive red and green dropcloth. ;-)
I've used mineral oil on cutting boards, knife handles and even a
Mineral oil doesn't "dry". It soaks into the wood, and that which
won't soak in just sits there. Rub it on generously and give it 3-4
hours to soak in. Then wipe off any excess with the proverbial clean
dry cloth. It'll be back in service immediately.
"Even an old blind hog finds an acorn every now and then."
Everyone's right! Mineral oil doesn't ever 'dry'. A better choice is
ordinary cooking oil. Peanut, Safflower, etc., but not Olive oil or
animal fats. Just saturate the surface and rub out with the palm of
your hand, then after 15-30 minutes wipe it off and use it. Do this
every few months and it will last forever.
On Fri, 23 Dec 2005 09:45:22 -0600, Frank Boettcher
Thank you gentlemen. I bought some walnut oil today and did a little
test on the corner of the counter. Looks like it will act like the
mineral oil and absorb, excess wiped off and then buff. I'll take the
counter off tommorrow and do the whole thing in the shop before the
festivities get in full swing.
Now you guys are scaring me. So, maybe back to the mineral oil.
Although no one in my family has the allergies, don't want to swell up
Fortunately, It is raining hard today so I postponed the job.
I did, but maybe I missed something or did not understand. It did not
reference walnut oil specifically but talked about refined vs. cold
pressed peanut oil. Cold pressed potentially dangerous?
Only walnut oil I could find is labeled as "expeller" pressed. Same
as cold pressed?
Those who are sensitive to the nut meat do not show such to the oils. Used
to be a better reference in the AAAAI to a study conducted by the NIH, where
they couldn't get one in 1,000 known hyperreactive people to react to the
pressed oil. It's 404'd now. Can't say never, but it's waaaaay beyond
remote that the 0.1% of people sensitive to tree nuts will find problems
with oil. Now a case if the squirts from food dissolved in non-curing
mineral oil or partially oxygenated vegetable oils is another matter.
Look for the word "processed," where the oil is dehydrated with solvent to
make even that remote more remote.
A little late responding, but I only just heard this last night: A FoaF
can eat some form of organic peanutbutter despite an allergy to most
peanuts because it is something used in the preparation of the peanuts
to which he is allergic.
I wouldn't take some of that too seriously. Generally, nut oils are
generally not nearly as reactive to some folks as the nut meat. It
drops to a small percentage of the original group who showed a
reaction to the nut meat. It seems that the more refined the oil is,
the less chance of allergic reaction.
But many more people do find black walnut oil irritating to the skin.
Not a full blown allergy, but a mild rash, or itch. Doesn't bother
me, but I have seen more than a few people who are minimally affected.
Mineral oil is probably safer. Just don't cook with it. ;-)
And of course, common vegetable oils can go rancid.
Just noticed that I should have been more clear on this point.
This would be the oils from handling black walnut hulls and nut
shells, not the walnut oil you buy at the grocery store. :-\
Black Walnut trees grow locally.
That's the Juglone and other phenolic nasties designed to make the husk
Sort of perplexing from an adaptive perspective, because the tree poisons
the ground, yet does not encourage dispersal of the nuts. Normally, you'd
expect a sacrificial sweet fruit to encourage dispersal, and a bitter seed -
sort of like black cherry.
Consider the mechanism: The ripe walnut, especially a black walnut, has
a very hard shell. A hard nut to crack, you might say. This is not
true of the still green walnut, however, and so might be a more
attractive target to the hungry squirrel were it not for the unpalatable
The squirrel has adapted a strategy to obviate these difficulties
insofar as it will bury the nut... not just to store or hide it, but to
allow the seed to germinate and thus crack the shell itself. In this
way the squirrel can find the nut after it has germinated and pry it
open to enjoy the meat inside.
But the squirrel has better gardening skills than it does a memory, and
some of the nuts escape the harvest and can germinate into a young tree.
I actually use Mineral Oil w/ some wax melted in it - just warm it up on the
stove - put some wax in - let it melt - then rub it in - let it dry for
about 15 mins - then buff out.
The "oily" feel goes away in about an hour. (for me at least)
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