DROP BOX OR WHERE TO FIND PLANS FOR WORKTABLE?

[justme]

Hi, folks.

I am wanting to build a 4 x 8' worktable/layout table or whatever it may be called. I would like to use a 4 x 8 sheet of plywood for the top and four 4 x 4s for the legs.

Sounds simple but I would like to see what others have done.

I don't have a dovetail jig or a biscuit joiner - yet.

Could someone direct me to sources for plans?

Thanks

j/b

[justme]

I forgot to say that the table will be for general use, such as putting a Delta planer on top, a small metal slip roll and give me a place to build and assemble various projects.

j/g

[LEGEND65]

Consider getting a solid core door for the top rather than plywood. Also consider doubling 2x4s instead of 4x4s for the posts, they will be more stable. There's a ton of plans out there for benches.

-Kevin

[luigirecnorm]

Get 48 feet of 1X6 in 8-foot lengths also. Cut two of the 6 lengths at

46-1/2" (you get four pieces). Nail (or screw) two 46-1/2" 1X6 to two 4X4's, one at the top of the leg and the other maybe one foot from the bottom. Repeat for the other two legs. These are your end leg assemblies. Then nail the 8' long pieces to the two end leg assemblies. Nail the plywood to the frame. If you want, you could also put a cross-piece in the middle top.

Bingo, no plans needed. I had a table like that for a number of years and it was quite useful until I built a proper bench.

Luigi

[justme]

Thanks, Kevin.

I will use your suggestion of (2) 2 x 4s.

I want a 4 x 8 foot top, still.

Yes, in fact, there are way too many plans. I just thought that someone knew of a few tried-and-true, most desireable plans.

j/b

[justme]

Thanks, Luigi,

I want a proper bench/table, too. I still want a plywood top, however.

I appreciate your suggestions.

j/b

Get 48 feet of 1X6 in 8-foot lengths also. Cut two of the 6 lengths at

46-1/2" (you get four pieces). Nail (or screw) two 46-1/2" 1X6 to two 4X4's, one at the top of the leg and the other maybe one foot from the bottom. Repeat for the other two legs. These are your end leg assemblies. Then nail the 8' long pieces to the two end leg assemblies. Nail the plywood to the frame. If you want, you could also put a cross-piece in the middle top.

Bingo, no plans needed. I had a table like that for a number of years and it was quite useful until I built a proper bench.

Luigi

[Pat Barber]

Go here and make a few notes on the construction:

you need is a saw,drill,tape measure and some screws.

The size can be almost anyth> Hi, folks.

[SonomaProducts.com]

Here is a complete plan for the portable table with drop down wheels much like the NYW version but free plans.

in mind while 4' x 8' top is a nice natural size, many folks find something a little smaller, at least in the 4' dimension is actually more convenient to be able to reach across and work with. Also, build it with 2 top sheets, one sacrifical that can be replaced over the years as it gets scarred up (plan height correctly). Also consider melamine or phenolic or laminate top to avoid glue stick down problems. (anybody have a preference here?)

Also, take note of the step to build a torsi> Hi, folks.

[justme]

Okay, Pat. Nothing is free, is it?

I revere Norm, though.

Thanks

j/b

[justme]

Thanks. Coincidentally, I had come across this plan through Google. I may use the top and stringers but definitely not the legs. I need beefy legs. I am not sure about the caster mechanism. I would rather have locking casters but they are expensive. Nevrtheless, I like the plans.

j/b

in mind while 4' x 8' top is a nice natural size, many folks find something a little smaller, at least in the 4' dimension is actually more convenient to be able to reach across and work with. Also, build it with 2 top sheets, one sacrifical that can be replaced over the years as it gets scarred up (plan height correctly). Also consider melamine or phenolic or laminate top to avoid glue stick down problems. (anybody have a preference here?)

Also, take note of the step to build a torsi> Hi, folks.

[SonomaProducts.com]

[justme]

I had not considered shimmy from a locking caster. You have convinced me to use drop-down casters.

Some suggested that I use 2- 2x4s for each leg, of which I will do, too.

Thanks for your help.

j/b

[Lew Hodgett]

Cut a rabbit in each 2x4 so that when 2x4's are assembled, you have an interlocking joint at the corner of the leg if you want to increase the strength of the leg.

Lew

BTW, using 1/2 ply for gusset plates to attach legs improves the strength of the top/leg joint tremendously.

Lew

[Larry C]

I built the table with the setup like in the NYW plans. In a word it is the NUTS. I have a few friends who have tables with locking casters and the table moves a bit. My table is on solid ground and does not move at all when planing, sawing, sanding, etc. When I want it out of the way I just pick up the side a few inches and the wheels drop down.

Larry C

[Pat Barber]

I also built the NYW version using plywood.

It is quick,easy and fairly cheap.

It is also VERY strong and very stable.

I think that using 2x4's would make it overly heavy and not any better.

I did add a lower shelf which is very handy and makes the table even more stable.

If I made another, I would add a few drawers instead of a open shelf.

[justme]

Lew, I think that I will bolt the 2 x 4s and I am thinking that will be enough?

Thank you,

j/b

[justme]

You've sold me, Larry.

I appreciate your ideas.

j/b

[justme]

Hey, Pat.

I will make it with a lower shelf. However, sometimes, I may have to move it outside and I want BEEF.

Thanks

j/b

[Lew Hodgett]

Might want to give that some thought.

Lew

[Larry C]

One more thing. I learned a while ago to try and make all of my tables, benches, etc for the shop the same height as my table saw, jointer, etc. That way they can double as an outfeed, infeed, comfortable cup holder, etc.