Drilling bench dog holes?

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On 11/17/10 8:14 PM, Upscale wrote:

Yours will have unique requirements, would like to see pics of the final product with a bit of sawdust on it. :-)
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     snipped-for-privacy@mikedrumsDOT.com writes:

I'm following this thread because I've had the same question in my head, but I don't have the bench yet so I didn't ask.
IMO, you are assuming a degree of hand drill skill and/or consistency that I am not certain is in my grasp. This will be my *first* workbench, after all. The results might work fine, but how would I know that at this point?
This question has bumped up suddenly, as I unexpectedly came into a fair number of hand tools that I didn't expect to be in my budget for several more years. Now I need a solid surface and a whole lot of practice.
As for the exactness of the holes, I know how the demons in my head work. The more precise the tool, the less likely I am to decide it is to blame.
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Drew Lawson wrote:

Lesson 1 (or 2): Drill a practice hole. Related suggestions include: do a test cut, stain/finish a scrap piece, build a mock-up model. Try to avoid surprises and have fun! :)
Bill

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The only reply I can give to that is the dog holes have the potential to be drilled on an angle, as slight as that may be. With a router, you're almost guaranteed that the hole is going to be vertically cut.
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On 11/17/10 6:46 PM, Upscale wrote:

IMO... if you can't drill a hole straight enough for a bench dog hole, then you shouldn't be woodworking. :-)
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-MIKE-

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On 11/17/10 8:11 PM, -MIKE- wrote:

Ummm, he is woodworking from a wheel chair, their are limitations as to his angles of attack on a project.
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On 11/17/10 7:17 PM, FrozenNorth wrote:

See my other post... I forgot who we were talking to. :-) However, I suggested a right angle drill, which I think would work for him. I just think the router would make way too much dust... which he's trying to avoid.
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It was just a joke, no offense taken. In reality, I've drilled a number of holes in various projects in the past and almost without exception, they all slant away from me. I just can't see it happening until I look at them from the side.
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On 11/17/10 8:24 PM, Upscale wrote:

OK, I retract my post and apologize.
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On 11/17/10 7:37 PM, FrozenNorth wrote:

No need to apologize. I forgot about the OP and thought we were just talking about woodworkers in general. Taken out of context... or is it *in* context.... my statement certain appears pretty insensitive.
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On 11/17/10 8:43 PM, -MIKE- wrote:

I'm Canadian, we do that :-)

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Unavoidable circumstances. I use a wheelchair so I'd be drilling with my arms extended straight out in front of me. Without some type of guide or a vertically fixed router housing for example, many of my holes are not close to be considered reasonably vertical. I consider myself a decent woodworker, just that I have some different challenges to overcome than some.
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On 11/17/10 7:20 PM, Upscale wrote:

I got that and replied your other post. I *still* think you could do it with a right angle drill. Again, I'm pretty close enough is close enough for bench dogs. And weren't you worried about dust, anyway?
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I do have a right angle drill, but it would still be problematic for me. And you're right, dust is my foremost concern. Even so, I think I'll go with my plunge router, sliding along inside a five sided simple plastic covered enclosure and with my CT22 dust collector attached. I'll know right away on the first dog hole if it's not going to be a workable solution. No harm at that point, just a little bit of my time wasted ~ that's if it doesn't work.
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On 11/17/10 7:32 PM, Upscale wrote:

I think you need to switch to a vertical workbench so you don't have to bend over.
That would solve everything. :-)
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On 11/17/10 8:34 PM, -MIKE- wrote:

It would keep clean, no nasty screwdrivers, pencils and chisels lying around. :-)
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Make a guide block and clamp it to the workpiece.
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On 11/17/10 6:44 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:

I've drilled the holes for Euro style hinges with my cordless Dewalt, worked perfectly and I can still count to ten.
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Lot of bullshit out there. They are hard to start cleanly if the drill and the work are not held rigidly. A _big_ one in a Hole Hawg or the like might get away from you, but a 3/4 in a typical cordless drill is no more dangerous than a 3/4 brad point.
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They are perfectly safe in a hand held drill. You can even drill on an angle because of the support around the outside. They are just not a very fast cutting bit, and don't clear chips well. My maple slab is 2.75" thick. A forstener is slow.. Also with my router I made a base plate to insert a dog and put a fence on it. So it registers the last hole. The router bit cut clean and quick. My base plate was a zero clearence plate too.
On 11/17/2010 6:44 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:

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