----------------------- Which is why I posted my previous mea culpa.
Given your bench is only 1-3/4" thick, a 3/4" x 2", 2 blade straight cut router bit with 1/2" shank shouldn't have a problem clearing the chips.
If it were 3"-4" thick, different story, but it's only 1-3/4", different story.
Just make sure to use ac backer to eliminate tear out.
Lew
No, I don't... on a work bench. Especially if you're talking about the minimal amount of tear-out you might get at the entry point, which could easily be avoided with the same piece of scrap you use with the router, or taken care of after the fact in 10 seconds with a piece of sandpaper.
But, as I mentioned before.. it's a WORK BENCH, not a dining room table.
Haven't seen too many plunge routers with a 4" depth cutting ability anyway.
Of course, that's just common sense. Since I'll be using a template guide for the router I'm considering hogging out most of each hole with a 1/2" or so spade bit and then come along with the router to more easily finish the holes. But, I'll try a few initial holes with the bit only and if the going is not too difficult, I won't bother using the spade bit.
IMO... if you can't drill a hole straight enough for a bench dog hole, then you shouldn't be woodworking. :-)
Boy, have you got a shock coming. I've met people who worship their work benches infinitely more than any dining room table. You can get a dining room table anywhere, but a really good workbench? They're only found once or twice in a lifetime and for some, they never get to experience the joys of a truly beautiful work bench.
It's called Nirvana my friend and is something that's experienced by too few.
I wasn't considering your circumstances when suggesting the drill. However, any drill bit would produce far less dust, which was your main concern, no?
Do you know anyone with a right angle drill? I think you would be able to produce adequate down force with one of those.
Ummm, he is woodworking from a wheel chair, their are limitations as to his angles of attack on a project.
Unavoidable circumstances. I use a wheelchair so I'd be drilling with my arms extended straight out in front of me. Without some type of guide or a vertically fixed router housing for example, many of my holes are not close to be considered reasonably vertical. I consider myself a decent woodworker, just that I have some different challenges to overcome than some.
It's no shock to me..... no, I take that back. I'm often shocked by how anal people get with protecting stuff they build to use to make stuff that matters. :-)
See, that's the problem. We're supposed to build the dining room table.
Found? I thought we were building it?
See my other post... I forgot who we were talking to. :-) However, I suggested a right angle drill, which I think would work for him. I just think the router would make way too much dust... which he's trying to avoid.
It was just a joke, no offense taken. In reality, I've drilled a number of holes in various projects in the past and almost without exception, they all slant away from me. I just can't see it happening until I look at them from the side.
I got that and replied your other post. I *still* think you could do it with a right angle drill. Again, I'm pretty close enough is close enough for bench dogs. And weren't you worried about dust, anyway?
I do have a right angle drill, but it would still be problematic for me. And you're right, dust is my foremost concern. Even so, I think I'll go with my plunge router, sliding along inside a five sided simple plastic covered enclosure and with my CT22 dust collector attached. I'll know right away on the first dog hole if it's not going to be a workable solution. No harm at that point, just a little bit of my time wasted ~ that's if it doesn't work.
-------------------------------- Spade bits are for electricians running romex thru floor joists, not wood working, IMHO.
If you layout center lines on 6" centers on the fence, you will simplify maintaining registration and speed up the process significantly.
Lew .
Lot of bullshit out there. They are hard to start cleanly if the drill and the work are not held rigidly. A _big_ one in a Hole Hawg or the like might get away from you, but a 3/4 in a typical cordless drill is no more dangerous than a 3/4 brad point.
I think you need to switch to a vertical workbench so you don't have to bend over.
That would solve everything. :-)
OK, I retract my post and apologize.
Yours will have unique requirements, would like to see pics of the final product with a bit of sawdust on it. :-)
No need to apologize. I forgot about the OP and thought we were just talking about woodworkers in general. Taken out of context... or is it *in* context.... my statement certain appears pretty insensitive.
I'm Canadian, we do that :-)
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.